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D60 1350 U-joint

Mastiff

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I'll be ordering some new driveshafts soon, so it seemed logical to upgrade the U-joints on the front. I'll be sticking with 1350 in the rear, but the D60 U-joint seems puny. Is switching to a 1350 yoke on the D60 a bolt on situation, or do I have to worry about messing with shims or anything? Anything else I should be thinking about?
 
Crush sleeve differentials lose the pinion bearing preload when you remove the yoke.

Chevy Dana 60's use shims rather than a crush sleeve so no problem with swapping yokes on those. Replace the seal and pinion nut while you're in there!
 
Thanks for pointing that out, I didn't realize about the working angle. I could always go to 1410, but it looks like they get pricey. 1410's are no bigger if I understand right, at least not in terms of their "diameter", just slightly stronger and they go up to 28 degrees.
 
1350/1410 same cap size

1410 has bigger width in the cross over the 1350 .

my stubby build I did 1410 at the axles . and then flat flanges at the case.
 
my stubby build I did 1410 at the axles . and then flat flanges at the case.

Can you explain what this means? I assume a CV at the t-case, do you just mean flat as opposed to a yoke? Did you do a dual 1410 CV?
 
ya flat flange for c/v head shafts when I finish the truck .

was planning 1350 c/v heads and the 1410 at the axles .

call and chat with jesse he will get you what you need .
 
call and chat with jesse he will get you what you need .

I'm close to pulling the trigger on a 208 SYE from Tom Woods. Thing is, he bundles a rear shaft with the SYE kit, so I need to work with him on that. I may check out HAD for the front though.
 
Does anyone know if a 1350 CV will have issues clearing the crossmember at the front of a 208? I don't see a lot of clearance for the existing CV.
 
Crush sleeve differentials lose the pinion bearing preload when you remove the yoke.

Chevy Dana 60's use shims rather than a crush sleeve so no problem with swapping yokes on those. Replace the seal and pinion nut while you're in there!

^This. I swapped a 1350 yoke on my d60, just unbolted the 1310 and bolted the 1350 up. My seal and pinion nut looked almost brand new, so I didn't bother, and no leaky leaky for a couple years now, but 38377k5 has a good point to take a look at it

Does anyone know if a 1350 CV will have issues clearing the crossmember at the front of a 208? I don't see a lot of clearance for the existing CV.

When I went from a stock shaft on the front to a 1350 cv shaft, I had clearance problems (contacting the stock crossmember). I just clearenced it for now. I plan to build my own crossmember/skid plate in the future, so I'm not too worried about if by clearencing it that it weakended it. But some people might be
 
So by clearance, you mean you ground away 1/16" , or something, of material? Or beat it with a BFH?

I assume it's almost always the lone U-joint that fails. I wonder if it's sensible to put a 1350 (or 1410) on the axle side and use something smaller (1310?) in the CV up front...
 
Cut enough until it doesn't rub. Every situation is different
 
Where did you get your 1350 shaft? A local place here claims they aren't available for flat flange 208 front output. I think HAD can make them, though I haven't confirmed.
 
Where did you get your 1350 shaft? A local place here claims they aren't available for flat flange 208 front output. I think HAD can make them, though I haven't confirmed.

I got mine from a buddy just down the road from me. He is linking the front of his K5 and didn't want a driveshaft with as much slip as his had. However if I remember right, he got it locally here in CO. It was a while ago though. IIRC though I think the cv/flange portion that connects to the tcase was sourced from a dodge shaft
 
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