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D60 14 bolt

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Reagan327

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Hey guys i blew my stock rear so I've decided to go with a d60 14bolt. My blazer isn't lifted at all and all my driving is road and gravel. Do you know if 1) I'll need to alter my drive shafts in anyway or is this simply bolt on? 2) do you recommend takin the one ton leafs out a k30? Any pro And cons? Thanks
 
I can tell you the Dana 60 is 2.5" or so longer than a 10 bolt thus shortening your driveshaft quite a bit. Rear I can't speak of, prob just need the conversion U joint and your set.
 
For your needs, I would just swap in another 1/2 ton axle. You'll be money ahead. 1 tons are expensive (at least D60s are) and require new wheels and tires. Plus I've never seen a stock height 1 ton setup. But to answer your questions:

14 bolt pinion is also longer. No need for 1 ton springs. the axles are unsprung weight. 1 ton springs will just make the ride stiffer.

I recommend searching around on here a little. All the info you need is here. The rear isn't necessarily a bolt in depending on what it came out of.
 
The rear snout is also longer, or "closer" to the T-case to put it another way.

But do you have these axles in hand already? Seems like a lot of $$$ to spend for zero benefit. Unless you tow massive loads or have giant tires you don't use, I'd skip the 60/14 for on road use only. Or, do the rear but not the front. That's just me trying to save money though.
 
I found a pretty nice k30 at the junkyard. All the 1/2 tons are rusted out so bad. It's 120$ an axle regardless of size. I pulled em out already hid them under a dodge and plan to go back with 2 buddies and take em home. This is the third time I blew my rear always replaced with a 1/2 ton stock my motor a pretty383 I drive pretty rough and want to be done with rear end problems.
 
Reagan327 said:
I found a pretty nice k30 at the junkyard. All the 1/2 tons are rusted out so bad. It's 120$ an axle regardless of size. I pulled em out already hid them under a dodge and plan to go back with 2 buddies and take em home. This is the third time I blew my rear always replaced with a 1/2 ton stock my motor a pretty383 I drive pretty rough and want to be done with rear end problems.
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If they truely are 1-ton axles, you better be on your way back to the junkyard to get them. That pair is worth around $700-1000
 
agree, I wouldn't wait another second, seriously.

Also, sell the front D60 and do an 8 lug outer for your half ton front. You'll be waaaay ahead of the game.
 
My 10bolt front ground to the ground I never got around to fixing it. Either way I have to do both this seamed like a good idea. I'm thinking put them both in the truck at stock height would be gnarly. Like a factory 1 ton k5. The u bolts scare me to get my original front out. I think I'll manage tho. Thanks guys I appreciate the information.
 
In that case, definitely go get those axles now. Don't worry about the U-bolts, just cut 'em. You'll need to replace them anyway. The rear, being out of a K30, will have to have spring perches and shock tabs cut and moved to fit. You will have to figure out the driveshaft length issue. There's a couple simple methods for moving the front axle forward and the rear axle aft (zero rates, rear spring perches), but it still may not be enough. You might have to get them cut down. Whatever you do, don't let the driveshafts bottom out on the transfer case. Not pretty.
 
For removing the old u-bolts just plan on cutting them off, just make sure you have the truck properly supported. You will need new u-bolts anyway and it's usually much quicker to take a cutoff wheel to them then try to actually unbolt them.

What is meant by the driveshaft bottoming out in the t-case is that the shaft cannot collapse/shorten enough when the suspension cycles and gets crammed into the t-case. Typically this will destroy the t-case and/or trans adapter, especially if an aluminum case like a 208 and 241.
 
At $120 an axle everything I own would be on 1-tons, including my wife's car:D
 
Reagan327 said:
I don't understand bottom out on the transfer case?,
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Driveshafts only have a limited amount of spline in them. Since both the 60 and 14b have longer pinions, the driveshafts will use up some or all of that splined slip. If you hit a bump and the driveshaft can't compress anymore, it will basically 'punch' your transfer case. And it's not built for that. That's what I meant by "bottom out".

I'm really not sure if it will be an issue. I haven't seen many stock-height, one-ton rigs. But I like the idea.
 
Thanks you guys have been great. I took the axles home all 600 pounds. I'll start swap on Saturday. Best wishes appreciated.
 
hope you got the ubolt/leaf spring plates front and rear .

there different on 1/2 ton to 3/4 on rear and different on 1 ton only front .

also if true 1ton rear the leaf spring pad spacing will be off 2" narrow over your blazer . you will have to remove and reweld the pads . or in your situation get some beffy replacement perches that are longer to help spread out the twisting force your motor creates .

rear axle : stock hight no lift blocks or maybe just a few inch this kit should work just fine . http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/14BSS.html or just perches http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/14PERCH.html or this guy also http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=123

front axle : bolt in job get this kit if your driver side leaf pad / perch is all bent up . lots are . http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D60-FSS.html or order the kit minus the 1 perch .

and check your upper shackle bushings in the frame mount for the front leafs . there most often smoked .

also note when I installed my first dana 60 front under a 1/2 and 3/4 ton truck I gained just over 1" of extra lift as the whole housing is bigger over 1/2 and 3/4 ton fronts . so you might end up needing to level the rear out some . maybe even plan on it if you don't like the low butt look they all have . most like to do about 1-2" depending on there taste to level the rear out .

and don't forget the brake master will be still 1/2 ton . and the HUGE brakes your swaping on will now eat up more pedal travel . some get away ok in the swap some have to go bigger master .

like said its a never ending upgrade . :popcorn:
 
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