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D60 C- tapered roller bearing race removal

FWP

FWP

CRS
Joined
Oct 11, 2000
Posts
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Location
Prescott Valley, AZ
First- How do you get it out of there? Second- What's the order of install- I have this figured out, bottom to top: Lower pin, Seal, bearing, race. Not sure on the next 2 pieces, V-ring, Stamped steel cover, or Vice-versa? Thx
 
It is a real beyatch!
I did mine last year and ended up making a threaded press.
Used a piece of large all thread, found a piece of pipe that would fir through the bottom of the knuckle, but not through the race, welded it to the bottom of the allthread, then I threaded a huge nut on, and put a washer and another piece of pipe on top.
Turning the nut counterclockwise pushed the race out.
If you don't have a welder, I have no idea how you would get it out.

I'll go check and see if I still have the "tool" and take some pics
 
It's ugly, but after fighting for 2 hours, the looks of the tool didn't matter anymore. I wanted that F-ing bearing OUT!

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These suck.. i just did mine on sunday, and i used a huge punch and a huge hammer with a lot of patience. if you do this you have to be kind of careful that you do not mar the surface to bad. After a couple go hits equally around the thin cap, the race started to brake loose, and it was out in no time. Here is a link to a in-depth kingpin rebuild that i followed to help me.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Kingpin/index.html
 
Crude But effective

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Long punch with a focused hand. I got mine out with the king pins still in.
 
Thanks for all the great ideas. I'm gonna try to pound it out first, and see what happens. Another idea I got from my machinist buddy, Weld around the inside of the race, when it cools, it should practically fall out.
 
k5 krawler 50 said:
These suck.. i just did mine on sunday, and i used a huge punch and a huge hammer with a lot of patience. if you do this you have to be kind of careful that you do not mar the surface to bad. After a couple go hits equally around the thin cap, the race started to brake loose, and it was out in no time. Here is a link to a in-depth kingpin rebuild that i followed to help me.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Kingpin/index.html
Click to expand...

That link was excellent, don't know how I missed it. I now have a good understanding, thanks! The 2 king pin seal (Ford and GM)thing had me confused for awhile:doah:
 
They're out, and the new races installed. Here's a few things I learned:

After trying various methods on the first side, what worked best was; a socket that fit the upper part of the lower C just right, A long brass drift, and a BFH. Ran the the drift through the kingpin hole, keeping the socket/ race centered in the bore. The first side took 30 minutes (to figure it all out). The 2nd side took less than 2 minutes to get the race/ tin seal out.

Install: Since I didn't have the right size driver, I ground the OD of the old race on the grinder, making sure it would fit in the C without getting stuck. I put a little RTV around edge of the stamped steel "seal" which held it up in place. Tapped the new race in til it was flush, then used my makeshift driver to finish it off. Hope that helps somebody in the future.
 
FWP said:
They're out, and the new races installed. Here's a few things I learned:

After trying various methods on the first side, what worked best was; a socket that fit the upper part of the lower C just right, A long brass drift, and a BFH. Ran the the drift through the kingpin hole, keeping the socket/ race centered in the bore. The first side took 30 minutes (to figure it all out). The 2nd side took less than 2 minutes to get the race/ tin seal out.

Install: Since I didn't have the right size driver, I ground the OD of the old race on the grinder, making sure it would fit in the C without getting stuck. I put a little RTV around edge of the stamped steel "seal" which held it up in place. Tapped the new race in til it was flush, then used my makeshift driver to finish it off. Hope that helps somebody in the future.
Click to expand...

Glad you got it all figured out Fred. Which knuckles did you end up going with?
 
He was talking about doing the Dedenbears but I am not sure if he went that route or not.

Harley
 
FWP said:
Thanks for all the great ideas. I'm gonna try to pound it out first, and see what happens. Another idea I got from my machinist buddy, Weld around the inside of the race, when it cools, it should practically fall out.
Click to expand...


Talking about race removal. I found this race in the shop today. Someone welded the CRAP out of it..........but it's 31" in diameter too...... That had something to do with it.

$10,400 bearing
$250K top drive

welding the piss out of it to get it apart.......priceless



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