You're in luck, I just my D60 Detriot/5.13 install a month ago. A few things I learned...
Get a case spreader. Otherwise you'll pull your hair out trying to get the original carrier out. I tried everything I could think of, pry bars, cheater bars, etc. I finally got tired of messing with it and busted out the John Deere. That didn't work right away either- I had the front of the truck on jackstands and the rear just sitting on it's tires. I had wrapped a chain around the carrier and hooked to the tractor. Each time I started pulling on it, it wanted to pull the truck off the jack stands. So I had to hook one end of a chain to the back of my truck, the other to the front of my Dodge and back the Dodge up to take the slack out of the chain. Still didn't pop the carrier out right away with the tractor. It's a smaller 4wd, John Deere diesel tractor, I had all 4 tires spinning on pavement in reverse and the carrier wasn't budging. It took a couple jerks on the chain to get it to pop out. I wish I had been able to get a picture...was funny lookin.
Get the master install kit with your Detroit. That way you get new bearings and can use your old bearings for "set-up" bearings. Get a die grinder with a small drum sander attachment and enlarge the OD of the old bearings till they drop onto the carrier without being pressed on. Set up your backlash using those bearings. That way you don't have to pull/press the bearings on and off each time you need add or remove a shim. You get your backlash set with the setup bearings and once thats finalized, just press on the new bearings and it's done.
Buy one of those cheap harbor frieght shop presses. I paid a machine shop $67.50 to press the pinion bearing on my 14b pinion and remove old bearings/install new ones on the carrier. If I had bought one of those presses, I could have used it on my 60 gear install. One of those shop presses, is just over $100. You'd need to get the bearing puller tool to go with the press...but you can always use that on some other project.
Make sure you have a dial indicator, a ft-lb torque wrench, an in-lb beam/tension type torque wrench (as apposed to a click type) and a set of calipers to measure shim thickness.
During all the setup, use the old pinion nut. Don't use the new one that comes in install kit untill after you've read the pattern and gotten the pinion depth set up. Thats the very last thing to do.
And be sure to have a train load of patience. From parking with the 4.56's to driving away with the 5.13's took a good 10+ hours, and 1 or 2 tools tossed into the trees in frustration. Getting the pinion bearing preload set up is fairly quick and painless. Then baclklash next, wich is fairly easy with the setup bearings. But getting to pinion depth/reading the pattern is what tried my patience. You have everything assembled, you mark the gears with the yellow stuff, spin it around a few times.....and find that the pinion is too deep/shallow. So you have to pull the carrier out again...which will probably be a bitch to remove. Then the pinion comes out, then you have to punch out the inner pinion race in the housing to add/remove the shims behind it. Then you put the pinion back in and because of the new shims behind the inner race, the pinion bearing preload has changed, so you have to re-do that. Once thats done, cuss, scream and mash fingers trying to hammer the heavy as sh!t carrier back into the housing then check the pattern again. If it's not right- rinse and repeat. After doing this 10 times you start to get irritated. Or atleast I did.
If you have anymore questions or whatever, don't hesititate to ask.
entering virgin territory. Gonna try to get started on it this weekend providing my fuel cell arrives soon and I can get it moved closer to the garage
