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D60 Hubs

JoshHefnerX

JoshHefnerX

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Rebuilding a D60 to swap in to my truck. Ran into a problem.

I'm putting an AAM 10.5 in the back that's using the 14x1.5mm studs.

Wanting to put some matching studs up front but they're about .025 smaller in diameter so they're not biting into the hubs, at least not where the old studs bit into. I turned the studs around and they would press in if the hole was 'unmolested'

So, anyone have any ideas about how to make the holes a couple of thousands smaller? Considering drilling it out and either welding a plug in and redrilling. Or maybe helicoiling it and drilling it out again....

Or finding some new unmolested hubs, but the couple of places that had those advertised were unavailable. Is anyone making new hubs today?

If none of those measure up, was considering welding the studs into the rotors w/ a couple of stitches...

Any other suggestions?
 
The only real "safe" way to do it involves dropping a plug in liquid nitrogen and heating the hub, drop it in and it's essentially stuck in there but that's a very trick thing to do nevermind finding Ln.

The safest thing to do is buy the hubs. You're really looking for a press fit which is roughly .001" undersized, there just wouldn't be enough safe material there to do that with a plug or helicoil.

You can do what I did. Get dually hubs and turn them on a lathe but if you don't have machine tools that's not going to work.
 
Welding the studs in is something I wouldnt do unless you use a tig welder. Id be scared of dumping too much heat into the stud and ruining its hardness. That being said I find it kid of hard to believe you cant find a metric stud with a larger knurl diameter.

If theres material to helicoil it then just do that and switch to a thread in stud. Any gr8 allen will do the job, or even a regular gr 8 bolt if the head will fit.

Also have you considered just switching the back to a 9/16?
 
I scanned dorman for stud sizes and there was 1 stud w/ a slightly larger knurl - think it was .005 larger, but the stud was a half inch shorter than the one that was in there, and they weren't that long to begin with.

I like the allen bolt/stud idea, I'll have to mull that over.

Didn't want 9/16. Heard of problems w/ thread stripping. Also most new cars are all metric, and metric parts will be more available.
 
As popular as 1 ton swaps are if there were issues with 9/16 threads being inferior you would see thread after thread here about fixes, that's simply not the case.
 
ok, so I decided to go back to original studs. Realized somewhere along the line I lost 2, and one had galled threads. Orders some dorman 610-283 which to my calipers is as identical as they come - only slight difference is there's a taper between the threads and the shank that has the knurls. On the dorman part it starts to taper out immediately after the thread, on the old ones the shank is bare for a mm or so and then tapers up. All other diameters and lengths are as identical as I can measure.

Problem is, w/ my press I cannot press them all the way in. There's about 1/8 in between the rotor and the stud head, so the rotor can lift off the hub that same amt. I'm using a HF 20-ton press and it pressed them out fairly easily. It starts to tweak on my press when I get to pushing effort in so I'm afraid to go any futher.

Any ideas?
 
NM I was a dumbass. didn't notice the ram support bar was bottoming out on the rotor face.. :doah:
 
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