D60 Kingpin and Crossover Questions

[mr_blasto]

I am in the process of getting a D60 all sorted out to do the 1 ton swap. As I am rebuilding the kingpins I am having a helluva time getting the bearing race and dust cap out (I think these are the right terms. The pieces are on the opposite flange of the actual kingpin.). I hear just use a lot of heat and a BFH, anyone have any other tricks that have worked well for them?

My second question is for all of you running a crossover or high-steer setup. Originally the D60's used studs on the drivers side knuckle to hold the integrated kingpin cap / steering arm on. Now that I am going to be swapping to crossover I need to use some sort of stud on the passenger side knuckle instead to hold the machined arm on. So what studs are you guys using, and where did you get them. Will the ones from the drivers side work (if so, anyone got a part number--my old ones are not reuseable). These don't seem like the kind of part I can pickup at a parts store or a hardware store, but I can't wait a week to have something shipped.

Feel free to correct any mistakes in terminology. Let me know if any of this needs clarification.

 

[b454rat]

I just did mine last week, used a BFH and a pointed chisel. Takes a bit, some heat should help out.

As for the studs, if the driver side are good, use those.

 

[Chaddy]

Heat and hammer/chisel. As for the studs, you can go to sixstates, ben hanks racing, rocklogic in SLC.......Or order some from ARP.

 

[mr_blasto]

I am picking up my tie rod at rock logic today, so I will see what they have when I am there. I have been working on my axles in a storage unit about 40 minutes away, and I didn't have a way to heat them up. Just bought a propane torch last night, we will see if that works.

 

[mnstrburbon]

try map gas it burns hotter than propane they carry it at homedepot and others its a blue can i believe

 

[mr_blasto]

I was thinking about mapp gas because it burns hotter, but it is also a bit more expensive. I figured propane should do the job, it may just take longer. My first choice would have actually been an oxy/acetylene setup, but that is way way way more expensive, and I am running out of money.

I talked to six states about the studs and the guy in the sales area didn't have a clue what I was talking about. Rock logic referred me to a hardware store where one of the guys said he bought some, the hardware store said they never have anything like that... to end the wild goose chase I decided to get some grade 8 bolts and cone washers (apparently that is a common setup rock logic uses). Hopefully it seats right. I will let you all know when I try it.

 

[UPS]

Make sure you pound the race out straight. When removing a bearing or race I hit one side of it then the other. I keep alternating from one side to the other to make sure it comes out straight. If it starts to go hard I will hit it 90* from the last spot then 180* from there. If you hit it too hard it just wedges it in the bore. Which could ruin the bore.

It doesn't hurt to measure from the bottom of the C to the race in a few places to see if it is wedged in the bore crooked.

I don't think you will need to heat it if you make sure it comes out straight.

Mike

 

[BGKYK5]

Steering arm studs can be found at:

http://shakerbuilt.com/Products.html

and

http://www.jkwoffroad.com/offroadproducts.php

 

[Chaddy]

The Hardware store should have some Grade 8 all thread you can cut down into studs.

 

[mr_blasto]

The Hardware store should have some Grade 8 all thread you can cut down into studs.

I was thinking about that, so I talked to the guy at fastenal and he didn't understand me asking if it came in different grades (i.e. grade 8). Spent 5-10 minutes on the phone with him and he just didn't get it. So I was worried that whatever they had wouldn't be too strong.

 

[Chaddy]

I believe I purchased some from an Ace hardware somewhere here in town.