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D60 leaf spring stud broke off inside housing...

Kay86K5

Kay86K5

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Found out last time I took my blazer out that I broke off one of the leaf springs studs on the passenger side that go into the housing. What sucks about how mine broke off is it's virtually flush with the housing (actually somewhat down inside the housing). I've tried to weld a bolt to it to try and back it out, but that's not working (because of how it broke off). I started to try and drill it out, but what drill bits are you using? Cause the ones I have don't want to cut into it very well.

Anyone had this before and if so what worked for you to get it out. I already have another set of new studs to bolt everything back up, I just need to get the old broken one out.

Thanks!
 
I know it sounds overly simple but have tried turning it with a chisel? Since it’s not cross threaded and there’s no tension on it you might be able to turn it out.

Another option is to try to weld a nut to it. Since it’s just below flush I’d used a size smaller nut to hopefully stay away from the housing threads and try to build up to it.
 
Kay86K5 said:
Found out last time I took my blazer out that I broke off one of the leaf springs studs on the passenger side that go into the housing. What sucks about how mine broke off is it's virtually flush with the housing (actually somewhat down inside the housing). I've tried to weld a bolt to it to try and back it out, but that's not working (because of how it broke off). I started to try and drill it out, but what drill bits are you using? Cause the ones I have don't want to cut into it very well.

Anyone had this before and if so what worked for you to get it out. I already have another set of new studs to bolt everything back up, I just need to get the old broken one out.

Thanks!
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@sweetk30 is the pro on this but you went the wrong way welding a bolt, you need a nut.
Use a smaller nut size than the stud, it will prevent you from welding to the housing
 
I may try to weld another one on and see if that works

And @obijuank5 this truck will never get linked. Its works great the way it is. I usually laugh at people that use their truck on 1-tons for years, and as soon as they break an axle shaft, they start saying, “tons aren’t strong enough, time for axletechs!” Haha. When all they have to do it replace the shaft and go about having fun. The same principle applies here ;)
 
imiceman44 said:
@sweetk30 is the pro on this but you went the wrong way welding a bolt, you need a nut.
Use a smaller nut size than the stud, it will prevent you from welding to the housing
Click to expand...
bigger nut . . . get the meat to hold better . . . never had a nut stick to heads or housings yet . also you can use a washer to seperate from the housing or head if you still think its going to stick .
 
LOTS OF HEAT is the ticket . and NOT propane you need oxy/act setup for heat .

sometimes it has taken me 5-6-7 nuts to get stuff out but worked . and real slow and easy by hand with hand tools .
 
sweetk30 said:
bigger nut . . . get the meat to hold better . . . never had a nut stick to heads or housings yet . also you can use a washer to seperate from the housing or head if you still think its going to stick .
Click to expand...
I am talking about the weld hitting the thread on the housing.
The trick is like you said, heat.
 
i know . . . i have not had one yet stick unless it was reg steel . leave the cast dirty and buff just the broken nub and burn it .
 
if you have a MIG, drill a hole in the broken stud.... some thing smaller... 3/8 or so.

tap that hole 3/8x16.....put in a grade 8 bolt
about 2" long... mig weld the bolt to the broken stud..

let things cool down some....spray with plenty of PB blaster,,, or acetone and ATF mix,,, or your favorite penetration oil...

put a long wrench on the new bolt head and rap the bolt as you turn it... or try a impact low and easy... don't twist off the new bolt.

you can heat the housing, but like SweetK30 said, use oxy-act.... it takes a lot of heat.

worst case, cut the head off of the new bolt and now you have a nub to weld a bigger nut to.
 
Get a carbide bur bit and a die grinder and either grind it flat enough to be able to drill it or you can even hog all the way through it pending on the bit. You could even build yourself a guide template for a drill bit using some plate and attaching it with the other u-bolt or something so that it is good and solid. Maybe some 3/8" or 1/2" steel so that it will hold you drill bit good and solid while you carefully start drilling until you get past the crooked face of it. Depending how it broke and how seized it is you might end up drilling it all the way out and either doing a helicoil or a thread insert. Worst case scenario you could pull the whole axle out and take it to a machine shop and the can remove it for you.
 
I've done this twice now. The first one was broken down inside the housing and didn't think I could weld a nut on very good, so wound up drilling it out and using a large EZ-out. When drilling it out I actually pulled the entire axle out of the truck and put it under a big drill press. It then took a lot of patience with heating it up several times and spraying down with penetrant before it came out. I also usually take a dremel or something like that and grind down the top of the broken bolt a little. Typically when a bolt or stud breaks off inside the housing it mangles and twists the threads some and wedges the threads together.

On the second one I finally gave up trying to back it out using the same method and drilled the hole completely out and put in a Helicoil.
 
Yeah, I had one break below the surface before. It was easy with a carbide bit and a die grinder. I hogged the holy hell out of the center, plenty deep and without touching the threads. Then used a big E-Z out, like 3/8" tipped, and turned it out real slow with penetrating oil.

I actually used a couple old nuts, the tall kind for these studs, and hogged out half the threads inside. Thread them down on the studs (the hogged end fitting around the course threads) and gently tight. Just something else there to old the stud since there's a big gap between perch and spring plates. If one ever breaks again, I'm hoping this keeps the break above the pad.
 
As a follow up to this, I’ve decided to say screw the studs and I’m gonna u bolt this instead. I’d rather have a u bolt on this thing instead of studs in the end anyways. Found you need a 5/8” x 4.5” x (roughly) 11.5” long. I had a hard time finding a 11.5” long one, but found this place: https://www.stengelbros.net/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_6ay3Mzi5QIVgeNkCh2x0gYZEAAYASAAEgIWVPD_BwE who had a 10.25” and 14.25” long one in 4.5” wide. So bought both just to make sure I have one that works (they’re cheap too).

So I’ll notch the housing and redrill some new holes in my DIY4x spring plates to accept the u bolt. I did kinda this same setup on my ford d60 when I did a sas on my burban (all u bolts), and I like it better in the end
 
Any semi truck spring shop like Best Deal Spring or maybe Utility Trailer can bend u-bolts to most any size you need. I'm not sure who is up in your area.
 
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