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d60 locker opinions

85 Jimmy

85 Jimmy

Sheepdog
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I'm about to start putting my dana 60 together and looking for opinions on lockers. I searched but didn't find what I was looking for. The only 2 lockers I've really looked at are a detroit and a lock-rite. I have a detroit in my 14bff and like it, but it doesn't unlock (I was told that they are supposed to work like a lock-rite, but it doesn't really bother me), and I have a lock-rite in my front 10 bolt right now and I haven't had any problems.

Is a detroit in the front worth the extra $$$? I plan to run 35's until they are worn out or I get extra $$$ then I'll step up to 40's, and I might run flanges in the front (but I have read that that doesn't matter as long as it's in 2wd).

anyway, I'm open to suggestions and feedback
 
I've ran a Lock-right in my D60 with 38's for a couple years and 40's now for several years. Never had any issues with it, never heard it bang or click, seems to unlock as normal on the trail, and is not noticable on the street when in 2wd (I have drive flanges also). Snapped 2 30-spline stubs and 1 necked-down inner shaft during this time also.

The Detroit should behave exactly the same and I won't argue that it is stronger, but I have no regrets with going with the Lock-right.

I do now a couple of guys who have "broken" Lock-rights. The issue was the dog teeth got worn and it wouldn't consistently stay locked and thus acted more like an open diff. Both were on heavy trucks with big-blocks, 42" tires, and used a lot of throttle. They both replaced the Lock-right with a Detroit and have been running several years without issues.
 
I'm wondering the same question so thank you for the post...

As far as what I've researched and found, the detroit acts more like a spool in that it unlocks rarely (similar to the rear). With this being said and knowing the price of a detroit compared to a spool, what is the issue with running a spool and only locking one hub when driving on hard pack stuff and only locking the other when completely necessary?
 
85 Jimmy said:
I'm about to start putting my dana 60 together and looking for opinions on lockers. I searched but didn't find what I was looking for. The only 2 lockers I've really looked at are a detroit and a lock-rite. I have a detroit in my 14bff and like it, but it doesn't unlock (I was told that they are supposed to work like a lock-rite, but it doesn't really bother me), and I have a lock-rite in my front 10 bolt right now and I haven't had any problems.

Is a detroit in the front worth the extra $$$? I plan to run 35's until they are worn out or I get extra $$$ then I'll step up to 40's, and I might run flanges in the front (but I have read that that doesn't matter as long as it's in 2wd).

anyway, I'm open to suggestions and feedback
Click to expand...

Flanges in the front does matter on a locked front even in 2wd on the street. If you have flanges and a locked front the axles will turn even though they should ratchet.
 
same as adv...drive flanges w/a mechanical locker such as a detroit will cause ur front axle to turn all the time...i have a detroit f/r n my k5 (d60/14bt) and if i lock my hubs, everything turns n front...and its a monster to try n steer or even drive n 4wd on anything w/o crossover...
 
I have been searching this very same question with very little info found believe it or not. Kinda crazy sine I KNOW it's been asked a million times if it's been asked once. I like the idea of a limited slip in the front that locks up when necessary. The ARB is bad ass but it's full open or full lock only. I like to have some pull from the front until it's time to lock it in and go. Anything like that in way of lockers? I herd there is a locker like that thats new on the market but don't know who told me or what manufacturer makes it.
 
i havent heard of anything...then again im stickin w/old faithful...i like knowin that when i lock tha hubs n put it n 4wd, all four tires pull until sumthin gives, terrain or parts...i would have mine any other way...
 
I've had a Detroit in the front of mine for years with both manual hubs and drive flanges, as long as I'm not in 4WD I've never noticed the Detroit was there.

Just my experience :o
 
thats true...u can still get around pretty good n 2wd...i always lock my hubs when i go offroad and sumtimes never put it n 4wd...jus have to make sure u take care of ur stuff, like keepin fresh fluid n dont let it get low/inspect for leaks...
 
rdn2blazer said:
. I like to have some pull from the front until it's time to lock it in and go. Anything like that in way of lockers? I herd there is a locker like that thats new on the market but don't know who told me or what manufacturer makes it.
Click to expand...


I think the only one that does that is the auburn ected

As far as lock rite or Detroit whichever one you can get, I know folks who have broken both. I know guys who have either or that have lasted for years.
 
I've see the lunch box lockers come apart many times...I just worked on one. If you're runnin low hp and are gentle on the skinny pedal...you'll have good luck with it.

If you like mud and have 300 hp....go detroit!
 
If working correctly (i.e. unlocking) you shouldn't be able to notice either Lock-right or Detroit in the front axle when in 2wd but the hubs locked or drive flanges. I've ran both locking hubs and flanges and could never tell the difference on the street, and a friend of mine also runs flanges with a Lock-right first and now a Detroit and would say the same thing. Both rigs are trailered but almost always see some street time to, from, and between the trails. On our last trip to Slade, KY we probably put 20+ miles a day on pavement.

A couple of guys run either a welded or spool front axle. Now there is a noticable steering effect when in 2wd but hubs locked so they always unlock the hubs even for short distances of pavement. They keep both hubs locked whenever on the trail but they both have a 2-low option in the t-case which seems to help.

I have seen one guy try the "only keep one hub locked" while on the trail method and it didn't work out......actually it was almost funny after awhile watching him jump in and out of the rig locking the hub, especially when getting stuck in the middle of mild obstacles and trying to get in and out of the rig. It really seems that the overall capability of a vehicle decreases with just one front wheel locked in. Both myself and many others have broken a shaft or hub on one side in the front axle and continued in 3wd but really seemed to struggle to get around.
 
I've run a lockrite for years. Its survived a few ring and pinion and axle explosions and its still in there.
 
Adventurous 4x4 said:
I just saw you listed you have a locked 10 bolt front now. Lock the hubs and see what happens.
Click to expand...

Sorry to let you know, but I locked both hubs in my front 10 bolt with a lock-rite and drove around (probably 30-40 miles) and it drove just like it does when the hubs are unlocked... I guess it'll be a lock-rite and slugs in the 60 :D
 
In my old J33P I had a welded front. I also went through a couple rear driveshafts. Running in 4-Hi with no rear driveshaft and one locked hub was interesting to say the least. It was tough to keep it in one lane going down the road, but it got me home.
 
85 Jimmy said:
I just found a free 454 that's going to get a performance build, so we'll see how long the lock-rite holds up :haha:
Click to expand...

Mudjunkie 82' had a lock-rite with 540 + hp..the KEY word is had.
He jumped into a big hole and gave it hell. That sucka lasted less then 5 minutes.

I have a ARB..I'm very happy that it still works well after 7 years..
Yah...u'll hear me from time to time.."Hey, Are both front tires spinnin'?":doah:
 
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