D60 lower knuckle cap

[Mastiff]

I'm stumped. I'm trying to re-assemble a knuckle and the lower cap/plate that is supposed to fit into the bearing refuses to fit. It goes maybe 1/8" in and sticks. I've tried pushing quite hard and it just won't go, but is hard to unstick from the bearing after trying. At this point I have the axle upside down on stands without the knuckle in place and am just trying to insert the cap into the bearing, so it's quite clear what's happening. All the parts are new except the cap. I assembled the driver's side without a problem.

Anyone have any ideas? I could buy a new cap if I need to, but they're $40 and this one doesn't look damaged.

 

[rebelgregory]

Dumb question - here goes: Is the bearing race in? It won't go in with the race in. The cap has to go in first, then the race.

If not, I'd just dress the edges down until it goes and then put a little RTV in the seat to seal it up.

 

[Mastiff]

Not sure what you mean. The race is in the axle C, then the bearing, then the grease seal.

I realize I still have my old bearings laying around. Both of them fit easily onto the cap I'm trying to use. All of them are Timken 23100, although the new one says "23100 554 Made in Canada" and the old ones say "23100 USA".

 

[rebelgregory]

My bad. I get it now. I thought you were talking about the little sheetmetal dust cover plate in the lower C.

This is the trunion you replaced after blasting the OE one right? I'd get a mic to everything and see what exactly is going on. If your new bearing has a burr on the inner race from jamming it coc-eyed, it will be very difficult to get together. Then again, something may be machined to a poor tolerance. It should go together tightly, but easily.

If there's no sign of defects, but maybe your new bearing is a bit too small (not likely, but possible) I'd use your old bearing with the new race if the old one is in good shape. It sees more load than rotation, obviously, so you want to make sure it doesn't have any flat-spotted rollers.

 

[Avery4jc]

I'd use your old bearing with the new race if the old one is in good shape. It sees more load than rotation, obviously, so you want to make sure it doesn't have any flat-spotted rollers.

I rarely flat out disagree enough on this site to say something but this time I will. I would figure out what's going on. Don't mix and match old/new bearing parts.

As has been said even a small bur or rolled up edge can be enough to make it difficult to assemble. Take a file and dress off the leading edge of the spindle all the way around and take a good look at the bearing to make sure you didn't somehow raise up an edge.

 

[rebelgregory]

I agree you shouldn't mix bearings and races. That's why I mentioned it last. Shoulda qualified it with a "as a very last resort if you reaaaaally don't wanna buy a new bearing...." kinda statement. For a thrust bearing application (load), it's not as crucial as say, a wheel bearing (heat, load, rpm).

Willing to bet a little touch-up in the right place with a file will get it together.

 

[Mastiff]

Well, I messed with it more, dressed the edges a little and was able to force it in. Both my old bearings fit just right the whole time, so maybe the new bearing is slightly out of tolerance or something. Must be those silly Canadians.

So it's all together now. I have another thread asking about the slight bit of slop I noticed on the drivers side when moving the knuckle by hand. When I change the direction of rotation, it's easier for a few degrees before it gets back to normal resistance. The passenger side doesn't have this, it's the same amount of resistance all the time. Does it sound like something I should worry about? Any ideas what the cause might be? I've had it apart twice already, and all the parts are new.

 

[K85 Octane]

have you pulled apart the driver side again yet? I hate redoing things and feel your PAIN but if it's THAT bad then it's the only way (safety too) to make it right. Plus, like you said, those pesky studs still need to go in.

 

[Mastiff]

have you pulled apart the driver side again yet? I hate redoing things and feel your PAIN but if it's THAT bad then it's the only way (safety too) to make it right. Plus, like you said, those pesky studs still need to go in.

Yeah, took it apart, put studs in, and back together. Saw nothing unexpected. There's not much to it is there? Kingpin, bushing, spring base, spring, cap. It all looked okay and packed with grease. I assume you're talking about the "play" I'm noticing? It might be nothing at all, I just don't know since I've never done this before. There's just like a few degrees of rotation where it's a little easier.

I think I'm going to go post on Pirate and see if any of those guys know anything. I'd be happy if someone either said "that's normal" or "that's bad and happens because of ...". I think 75% of people would not even have noticed and would be bolting the rest of it back together by now.