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D60 outer pinion bearing install

Highpsi

Comfortably Numb
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Aug 7, 2005
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I've searched a bunch of posts both here and at Pirate, and read the Billavista writeup on gear setup that details the D60 specifically, but I don't see any special info about how people install the outer pinion bearing.

I gather that's because there's no rocket surgery here - the way I read it there might or might not be a baffle "H" (mine didn't have it) and mine was actually missing the thrust washer "E" (or is it really?).

Figure_3_zps9070358f.jpg





Instead, I had what I'd call a large concave washer installed behind the outer seal. The person that had done the gears prior had it installed with the concave side facing the bearing. I know that because you can see the lettering from the inner bearing diameter has made an imprint on this large concave washer. I guess this thing is taking the place of the thrust washer? :dunno: As near as I can tell, maybe this really IS the thrust washer?? At least that's what this seems to say:

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-11823TW-dana-60-pinion-gear-thrust-washer.html


Here's mine:

20140720_122154_zps2f746dac.jpg


Anyway, back to my question about installing the new bearing. Are you supposed to just get the bearing onto the pinion far enough, then torque into place with the pinion nut? I can barely get it on the shaft far enough to get the yoke on with its washer and nut, let alone this thrust washer too. The problem is in the damn case and installed, the pinion assy. is a bit odd to work with. I think I will probably go ahead and fabricate a yoke holder tool too - seems to do this right that's really what's needed.

I realize you're supposed to use a setup bearing to shim with and get your backlash and shim thickness, gear pattern etc. That's fine and I can grind out or remove material from the ID of the old bearing but how am I gonna get the new one on? Just looking for some tips from you guys that have done this before and are likely going to tell me I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill or something! :whistle:
 
The "thrust washer" is really just a blockade to keep oil off of the seal, many non-Spicer diffs don't even have them. There are different styles, the one you have is fine.

Sometimes you have to tap the pinion in some to start the pinion bearing, but the bearing is basically pressed on by the pinion nut. You can also make a spacer to simulate the yoke (but shorter) and use the old pinion nut to press the bearing on. Just make sure you have a few threads engaged and you shouldn't have a problem, it doesn't take a whole lot to press that bearing on.
 
Ok thanks - that clears it up for me now. From what I read there's a few configurations that Spicer made so I wasn't too surprised but I just wanted to be sure before putting everything back together.

Seems I will be best off by making a few special tools to ensure the install goes correctly. I have a new pinion nut too, so I'll just use old parts to get it pressed in first.
 
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