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D60 rebuild questions of the day

BGKYK5

BGKYK5

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I've got four (so far)

1. Is there any reason I can't ditch the little sheet metal do-hickeys on the outside of the caliper bracket? Mine are toast.

2. Any tips on removing the lower kingpin? Mine is tuck on real good.

3. My tie rod ends have different threads where they pass through the knuckle. One is 5/8" and one is 9/16". I assume the larger one was bored out at some point. I am not planning on going to high steer. Any issues with that?

4. There are these plastic wedges between the knuckle and spindle. I assume they are for camber adjustment??? Do I need to keep/replace them?

TIA :waytogo:
 
1. not really. I ditched mine without issue.
2. Smack the sh*t out of it and get a little space opened up. Then apply screwdriver. I've had to do that to every damn one of mine. DO NOT smack at the bolt holes, you'll egg them out.
3. I wouldn't imagine any issues if that's what's working now.
4. Those are the wear items... well, those and the springs. REPLACE THEM, they come in the kingpin rebuild kits.

Enjoy
 
Thanks.

On number 4 I am not talking about the kingpin bushing, but this pink thingy.

P1010001.JPG

P1010001.JPG
 
Can camber change much on a D60? I wouldn't think so. :dunno:

Anybody else have camber shims?
 
BGKYK5 said:
Can camber change much on a D60? I wouldn't think so. :dunno:

Anybody else have camber shims?
Click to expand...

Mine didn't have any when I took it apart. Therefore, none are going back in. :) BTW man, I'm hoping to finish setting up the ARB on mine today!
 
BGKYK5 said:
I've got four (so far)
2. Any tips on removing the lower kingpin? Mine is tuck on real good.
Click to expand...

Also, if you plan on removing the race and cap, just start with a ball joint press on it and an impact wrench. I tried hammering one side out and it jacked it all up, making using the press a little more interesting. My punch actually started ripping a hole in the cap!
 
I had a 79 3/4 ton years ago that was chewing up front tires. I went to get it fixed and Im pretty sure they put blue versions of those pink things in. It was ok for a while then I had the ball joints changed and it started to eat tires agin. So I had to go back to the shop and have the blue things taken out. I used 2 differnt shops and I was young and didnt know any better. It would have saved me some money if the first shop would have replaced the ball joints to begin with rather than the band aid blue thing. The blue ones they took out of mine where obviously tapered(thick on top and thinner on the bottom) your pink ones dont appear as tapered as the blue ones I had.

EDIT: mine ended up being a big hub D44 That I swapped in but the concept is the same im sure. Like I said I was young and I thought the big hub meant D60
 
Axles come out of the factory with a tolerance range on the built in camber. Some will need a plastic camber shim to reduce the camber to get better wear out of the wide off road tires. You can check it yourself. Put the axle assembly on jack stands. Use tapered wooden door shims under the jack stands to get the axle tube perfectly level. Get an angle finder from Home Depot. Put the angle finder on the machined surface which will mate to the spindle. Note the angle. The top of the knuckle leaning out is positive camber. For off road tires I have found that 1/4 degree to 1-1/4 degrees of positive camber works good. If the camber is not in this range, I would get the appropriate shim.

I was lucky with my Dana 60. Both sides were close to 1 degree. It steers and handles fine. Tire wear OK so far. I had to put a shim in the old 10 bolt to reduce the camber on one side.

Camber, caster, and toe-in are all adjustable on these solid axles and you can do it all yourself.
 
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