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CRS
Hey Brandon, how much does your rig weigh? Just curious...
CK5
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D60 upgrade questions.... 35 spline, alloy shafts, spicers, lockers, yokes?
- Thread starter jjlaughner
- Start date
FWP
CRS
Man, that's light, I envy you /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
desertrat67
Hawk Driver
took my worn to hell truck complete with falling apart wheel bearings through two pretty decent trails in Las Cruces(off-broad way and broad canyon) and it survived. I have 4:10's, stock shafts, and Loc-Right. this was in a crewcab- ish truck with a tbi 454 and 38" TSL's. This thing isn't really that light and i have a heavy right foot. Just ask Robzilla, Marv Springer, and Scooby Dann. I say get a loc-righ, some good hubs and a nice tierod and be happy(still not happy since i have a stock tie rod).
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broached 35 spl spicers
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Got pics? who does this Broaching stuff and what is it exactly? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
How much are new spicer lockouts if I pickup an axle without? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
broached 35 spl spicers
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Got pics? who does this Broaching stuff and what is it exactly? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
How much are new spicer lockouts if I pickup an axle without? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
I've seen 30 spline take a pretty good beating, I'd say make sure all the joints are at least decent, put in a spring and bushing kit to keep the DW at bay and run it as is. Down the road buy the best locker you can justify the funds for and fix/upgrade as you go. I had a friend tell me one time that the way to do this is to break something twice, then upgrade it. This doesn't mean run your 10 bolts till they explode twice, but when you know your parts are close to being strong enough, give it a shot before you automatically drop a bunch of cash for feel good parts. Some experience of your own will go a long way for you in deciding what you need to do to make it survive with a breakage level that's acceptable for you.
Personally, I'm on my 4th front axle assembly. 2 ujoints have left my possesion at a high rate of speed, one stubshaft became 2 and one short assembly egged the ears out to the point I replaced it. I've been pretty hard on the truck in the last few years. 1350 driveshaft joints have been holding tough for me through this breakage. I've passed my acceptable level of breakage and will be going to some alloy shafts and CTM's when I have a chance to do anything with the truck.
Sounds like everybody and their brother has a spicer warehouse in their garage here so have fun figuring out where to buy stuff. I guess I should toss in that we carry all the goodies too down to wheelbearings, etc. We do have a # you can call during the day if you need it.
Personally, I'm on my 4th front axle assembly. 2 ujoints have left my possesion at a high rate of speed, one stubshaft became 2 and one short assembly egged the ears out to the point I replaced it. I've been pretty hard on the truck in the last few years. 1350 driveshaft joints have been holding tough for me through this breakage. I've passed my acceptable level of breakage and will be going to some alloy shafts and CTM's when I have a chance to do anything with the truck.
Sounds like everybody and their brother has a spicer warehouse in their garage here so have fun figuring out where to buy stuff. I guess I should toss in that we carry all the goodies too down to wheelbearings, etc. We do have a # you can call during the day if you need it.
i run...
warn premium hubs, spicer 806x nongreaseable joints, warn 35 spline outters, stock 35 spline inners, genuine gear 4.56s, a detroit, and a 1410 yoke from HAD. Its worked pretty well for me so far. I dont abuse the skinny pedal and i only run 39.5s. The next upgrade would most likely be some high end inners, since my stock ones are gettin purdy old school (fatigue over time and all that) and prolly arent as strong as my newish warn outters. When I replace the joints next time, I'll prolly get some heat-treated/cryo'd/recapped spicers from Bobby Long. Other than that and regearing, i can't think of anything else I want to do to this axle. Its got plenty of beef for those of us that would rather crawl than HAMMER DOWN. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
j
warn premium hubs, spicer 806x nongreaseable joints, warn 35 spline outters, stock 35 spline inners, genuine gear 4.56s, a detroit, and a 1410 yoke from HAD. Its worked pretty well for me so far. I dont abuse the skinny pedal and i only run 39.5s. The next upgrade would most likely be some high end inners, since my stock ones are gettin purdy old school (fatigue over time and all that) and prolly arent as strong as my newish warn outters. When I replace the joints next time, I'll prolly get some heat-treated/cryo'd/recapped spicers from Bobby Long. Other than that and regearing, i can't think of anything else I want to do to this axle. Its got plenty of beef for those of us that would rather crawl than HAMMER DOWN. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
j
84_Chevy_K10
Banned
I will just add a comment about driveshaft size. If you don't have crazy wheel travel and crappy pinion angle and can keep a 1310 from binding you will probably never break it. Driveshaft joints will fail quickly and often if bound but if they're greased they'll RARELY fail from too much torque unless you're really hammering on your rig.
I run a 1410 and under full droop I can still get it to bind so you can and will trash nearly anything if you try hard enough.
I built my friend a rear shaft with a 1310 on one end and a 1350 on the other for his jeep. It's about 18" long and at a crazy angle and I had to clearance grind the crap out of it to keep it from binding. In the last three months he hasn't broken it yet despite the fact that it's a 4 speed and has 38.5x16 TSLs that are grooved and have lugs cut off. No bind, no breakage, but don't clearance grind too much because you'll weaken the yokes.
I run a 1410 and under full droop I can still get it to bind so you can and will trash nearly anything if you try hard enough.
I built my friend a rear shaft with a 1310 on one end and a 1350 on the other for his jeep. It's about 18" long and at a crazy angle and I had to clearance grind the crap out of it to keep it from binding. In the last three months he hasn't broken it yet despite the fact that it's a 4 speed and has 38.5x16 TSLs that are grooved and have lugs cut off. No bind, no breakage, but don't clearance grind too much because you'll weaken the yokes.
Lots of good stuff here so I will just give my experience, when I first shoved the D60 under the front it had 30 spline outers (innners are 35 spline stock) with Warn priemum hubs, I had quite a few runs on them and never broke anything. When I upgraded to 35 spline (Spicer) outers with Warn 35 spline premium hubs I started breaking the lockout hubs every time I went out. I then upgraded to the Warn flanges and haven't broken a hub since.
Now I did blow a joint and the inner and outer 35 spline shafts on the Carnage Gulth trail (flange was fine) which was the first time I broke "any" D60 parts but I was kind of on it shall we say. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
Bottom line, I would run the 30 spline stuff and see how it goes, more than likely you will be fine, if it's not broken then don't fix it, you may find that you don't need to upgrade, save the money for something else, latter on if you do start breaking then upgrade at that time.
If you have to have 35 spline outers then I would go flange for sure, the 35 spline lockouts are "very" weak, thats why people are broaching the 30 spline stuff. But I figure if you are breaking 30 spline stuff then chances are it's not a daily driver anyway and just go with the flanges.
Now I did blow a joint and the inner and outer 35 spline shafts on the Carnage Gulth trail (flange was fine) which was the first time I broke "any" D60 parts but I was kind of on it shall we say. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
Bottom line, I would run the 30 spline stuff and see how it goes, more than likely you will be fine, if it's not broken then don't fix it, you may find that you don't need to upgrade, save the money for something else, latter on if you do start breaking then upgrade at that time.
If you have to have 35 spline outers then I would go flange for sure, the 35 spline lockouts are "very" weak, thats why people are broaching the 30 spline stuff. But I figure if you are breaking 30 spline stuff then chances are it's not a daily driver anyway and just go with the flanges.
I've heard of better results with the Tera 35 spl hubs which I think are rebadged MM but I'm not sure.
speaking of D60 hubs, with everyone wanting to run 35 spline outters and big tires..is it me or is it a little weird that someone at Warm or MM or whatever haven't made set of hubs out of 300M or something? maybe some really well treated/cryo'd 4340? I dunno, it just seems like there is some stronger materials they could use than what they are now...
j
j
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
You would think so but it would cost Warn alot of money for R&D, alot higher price metals, etc.
In my opinon if you need stronger then stock 30 spline outers there is only 3 options.
1. 4340 30 spline outers. Uses stock hubs and is stronger then standard 35 spline outers
2. 35 spline outers with broached 30 spline Spicer Hubs
3. 35 spline outers with drive flanges
Locking hubs with 35 splines are weak and if you are needing to upgrade to 35 spline for strength you don't need a weak hub.
I personally am a fan of the 4340 30 spline outers. No new hubs required and they will drop in. They are also marginally stronger then the 35 splines.
If you break those then you just need to get 35 spline 4340.
I imagine that you should be able to get the 30 spline 4340's for about the same price or cheaper then the 35 spline upgrade kits.
Then you can also use the stuff everyone is getting rid of for spares. You can find quite a bit of 30 spline stuff on here for sale after the owner went 35 spline. You can get spare stock stubs and hubs pretty cheap alot of times.
Harley
In my opinon if you need stronger then stock 30 spline outers there is only 3 options.
1. 4340 30 spline outers. Uses stock hubs and is stronger then standard 35 spline outers
2. 35 spline outers with broached 30 spline Spicer Hubs
3. 35 spline outers with drive flanges
Locking hubs with 35 splines are weak and if you are needing to upgrade to 35 spline for strength you don't need a weak hub.
I personally am a fan of the 4340 30 spline outers. No new hubs required and they will drop in. They are also marginally stronger then the 35 splines.
If you break those then you just need to get 35 spline 4340.
I imagine that you should be able to get the 30 spline 4340's for about the same price or cheaper then the 35 spline upgrade kits.
Then you can also use the stuff everyone is getting rid of for spares. You can find quite a bit of 30 spline stuff on here for sale after the owner went 35 spline. You can get spare stock stubs and hubs pretty cheap alot of times.
Harley
