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Daily Driver Timing Belt

Chief Brody

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Don't know if it is allowable but can I ask a question about a Ford?

My daily driver is a 1999 Ford Ranger 2.5 and I have a busted radiator and with 160,000 miles, I need to replace the timing belt while I have the radiator out.
Has anyone here ever done that job?
 
ive done timing belts on about 5 different vehicles.

It is time consuming, but not hard at all
 
I was wondering about the need for a "special tool" for the tensioner...which would be specific to the Ranger or Mazda version...
also waterpump is $168...supposed to have some kind of precision bearing that the other varieties don't.
 
Before buying the parts, check Rockauto.com. Even with shipping they have been around 45% cheaper than all the local auto supply places. Shipping usually takes 2-3 days.

I beat you to it...I already got a parts list for the job in the Rockauto queue...Radiator, water pump, timing belt kit, water neck and thermostat, upper and lower hoses and bypass hose...all motorcraft oem parts = 375.47 shipping included.
 
If I align all the marks will it automatically be at TDC on compression stroke?

"Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the number 1 cylinder is on top dead center of compression stroke, with the mark on the crankshaft sprocket lined up with the raised mark on the block. The oil pump on the left side has two diamond marks on the sprocket and block; they must line up, and the two triangular marks on the camshaft sprocket and the rear timing-belt cover must also line up."
 
wait until you get to do vws....especially the TDI's. The motor mount has to be removed and the engine lifted. If the injection timing is off by a 1/10 of a degree it wont run......yea it sucks, and its VERY expensive.

But usually the domestic timing belts aren't a real pain. Good luck!
 
That job shouldn't take you more than a couple hours tops. That engine is basically the same as the 2.3 Ford that was used in the Pinto, Mustangs, Capri's back in the day. I've changed probably 3 dozen over the years on the 2.3 engine. I have a friend that owns a shop just tell me recently how he likes to do timing belts (assuming they didn't break), he marks the cam gear and belt, crank gear and belt, and the oil pump drive gear and belt with a white grease marker and then once he takes the belt off he lays the new belt on top of the old one and transfers ALL of his marks onto the new belt and then installs the belt. This way if any of the marks don't line up you know 100% for sure before even starting the engine that the belt isn't on correctly.
 
I have a friend that owns a shop just tell me recently how he likes to do timing belts (assuming they didn't break), he marks the cam gear and belt, crank gear and belt, and the oil pump drive gear and belt with a white grease marker and then once he takes the belt off he lays the new belt on top of the old one and transfers ALL of his marks onto the new belt and then installs the belt. This way if any of the marks don't line up you know 100% for sure before even starting the engine that the belt isn't on correctly.

That's a great idea...but what if the old belt stretched?
 
I agree with Scott, just make sure everything is lined up and you're good. Timing belts are super easy as long as they're not DOHC, then you need the cam holding tool. Either way, not a bad job, just takes a bit. Also be sure to start it for a second after you get the belt on to make sure the timing is right. Then put everything else back together and you're good to go:waytogo:
 
The one thing that worries me about the job is the crankshaft pulley...don't know how hard that thing is going to be to get off.

Even when I remove the radiator, the condensor will be in the way...
 
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