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Dana 44 & 14B FF for sale $500?

'86erfixer

'86erfixer

1/2 ton status
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Location
Boise, Idaho
Found this in my area, and have been wanting to do the swap. I'm a huge newb when it comes to axles. Assuming what he says is true and axles are in good condition is $500 a good/fair price? :confused:



http://boise.craigslist.org/pts/1391761504.html


3/4 Ton axles High-X-Over STEERING 410 gears - $500 (Payette)

Date: 2009-09-25, 9:24AM MDT
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]

For sale Chevy 8 lug hd dana 44, was rebuilt about 10k miles ago with new superwinch hubs, calipers, pads, rotors, bearings and seals. Spider gears are welded. Has HIGH CROSS OVER STEERING, done the right way with machined steel arms from sky manufactureing, passenger milled drilled and tapped knukle. 4:10 gears

Rear is a 1 ton corperate 14 bolt full floater, open diff 410 gears axle pads are setup for direct swap to toyota but can easily be changed back to chevy

$500 Firm for the set

Will partial trade for nv4500 4wd chevy or srw front dana 60 hubs

(541)399-3199


Location: Payette
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
 
The pricing might be ok for what is listed but i would never weld spiders on a front D44 because you will break axles. The rear diff has the perches moved to fit a toyota so you will need to cut and move them to fit into your rig. If it were me i would buy a 14FF rear out of a 3/4 ton (direct bolt in for your blazer with exception of conversion u-joint) and then buy an 8 lug conversion for your front axle. Obviously you would need to make sure the 14ff gears match what is in your front diff.
 
Found a 14B FF for $100, how long will my 10B front hold up with moderate camping/wheelin trips? Running 35's on 4'' if it matters.
 
'86erfixer said:
Found a 14B FF for $100, how long will my 10B front hold up with moderate camping/wheelin trips? Running 35's on 4'' if it matters.
Click to expand...

Since you're only running 35's and if the front is open and you don't have a real heavy foot on the skinny pedal you'll be fine with the 10b. I would snag up the $100 14ff and swap it in and then do the front 8 lug conversion.
 
I appreciate your help/thoughts, thank you. The rear 14b has 4.10's. I'm don't know exactly what I have, but am pretty damn sure it's not 4.10's. I need to re-gear anyways, it might just be worth it to try and find another front axle with 4.10's and maybe stronger than the 10B cause I've been know to get a little stupid behind the wheel. That would save me re-gearing, 8 lug conversion, and give me something more reliable. Any thoughts . . .?
 
It's usually cheaper and easier to just find a complete matching geared front axle (10-bolt for D44). That avoids the cost and time required to swap gears and go from 6-lug to 8-lug. The exception is if your current front axle already has matching gears, but it it's a stock 1/2 ton axle then unlikely it would have 4.10's.

You really only have two choices in front axles in regards to overall strength:
1. 10-bolt for Dana 44 - these are basically identical in strength
2. Dana 60 - but 5 to 10 times more expensive then the above choices
 
you guys miss the fact that the axle has high steer? You can usually pick up those axles for around 100 to 200 bucks so you give 300 for the high steer I am thinking thats less than you may pay overall. I would replace the spiders in front with ones that are not welded.

With the high steer I would say they are worth it
 
blazinzuk said:
you guys miss the fact that the axle has high steer? You can usually pick up those axles for around 100 to 200 bucks so you give 300 for the high steer I am thinking thats less than you may pay overall. I would replace the spiders in front with ones that are not welded.

With the high steer I would say they are worth it
Click to expand...

My first reply was that the "pricing is ok for what is listed", but does he want or need hi-steer? If he wants hi-steer then the price is definately worth it and like you said he can always change out the spiders UNLESS someone welded them to the carrier as well. Perches and shock mounts aren't anything to worry about as that's easy stuff to deal with.
 
4X4HIGH said:
My first reply was that the "pricing is ok for what is listed", but does he want or need hi-steer? If he wants hi-steer then the price is definately worth it and like you said he can always change out the spiders UNLESS someone welded them to the carrier as well. Perches and shock mounts aren't anything to worry about as that's easy stuff to deal with.
Click to expand...


true dat. If you don't need the high steer its not a great deal if you do its not bad.
 
k, so what's high steer do? what's the up side? then the next obvious is how much to replace the welded spiders? thanks for the input yall.
 
well cross over steering setup replaces the not so bright GM design poor geometry... in stock setup the pitman arm is perpendicular to the frame and uses a deformed U shape arm to connect to the steering on the drivers side knuckle. the crossover steering replaces that 4wd steering box and the pitman arm is now parallel to the frame in the centered position. The cross over bar is then perpendicular to the frame and runs to the passangers side knuckle ( a flat top knuckle non stock item). this allows better geometry and more leverage in the steering mechinism . important with larger tires and off road use .

Now when you add high steer, you remove the stock tie rod and relocate it up over the springs protecting it to frontal impacts.
 
if your truck is lifted high steer changes the steering so that bumpsteer will be eliminated with all but the tallest lifts. It also helps the overall geometry of the steering system when your suspension articulates. Probably one of my favorite mods of all time, usually improves the drive ability of a lifted truck a great deal. If you are lifted now it will be a great addition to your truck. If you plan on lifting it in the future and keeping the 3/4 ton axles well worth it. If you never plan on lifting your truck than you can find axles that may need less work for cheaper
 
1 more question, or maybe 2. If his high crossover steering is installed on a say a jeep or anything other than a blazer then it's not going to be a simple bolt on job is it? Some mods are gonna need to be done right. Also, you guys talk about it bettering the geometry of the steering mechanisms. But the pics I've seen show a parallel bar above the springs, replacing the angled bar from the original steering. His pic shows an angled bar above the springs. Is that just cause his rig's lifted WAY high or is it still botched geometry? I know this is long, my bad. His pic is attached.

3m83pd3l55Pd5R95Sf99p3cf41757c1f31be7.jpg
 
that looks like a jeep. You will have to get another drag link made or possibly lengthen the one that is there.

There is cross over which only puts the drag link above the springs. Putting the drag link as parallel to the ground is best.

Then there is high steer, which is what those axles have. High steer puts the tie rod and drag link above the springs, gets the tie rod away from damaging rocks etc.

No matter what lift you have this setup will be way better than the one your truck came with stock. You can't run it without a lift.

As i think was stated before you will need a steering box from a 2 wd truck and a new pitman arm. See if the seller will sell you his pitman arm he is using with everything else it will probably work.
 
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