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dana 44 8-lug conversion

bp71k5

bp71k5

3/4 ton status
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The writeup for converting the 6 lug d44 to 8lug kind implies that I need new calipers for the swap, but just lists 3/4 ton hub\spindle assembly.

My 12 bolt rear housing is "done" and I'm considering a 3/4ton swap. Being able to keep my front calipers attached would be make the swap much easier.
 
bp71k5 said:
The writeup for converting the 6 lug d44 to 8lug kind implies that I need new calipers for the swap, but just lists 3/4 ton hub\spindle assembly.

My 12 bolt rear housing is "done" and I'm considering a 3/4ton swap. Being able to keep my front calipers attached would be make the swap much easier.
Click to expand...

You can keep your 1/2 ton calipers, I did. You will need 3/4 ton pads...I believe they are larger and/or have a different contact patch.
 
Ah, that makes a big difference. Were you able to find a non-wrecking yard replacement for the rotor\hubs? The normal parts stores only seem to have 3/4 ton rotors.

Edit: I was assuming I needed new hubs... Do I? (I mean the part that bolts onto the knuckle and that the wheel bearings ride on). Some places call it a spindle, others call it a bearing hub.
 
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bp71k5 said:
Ah, that makes a big difference. Were you able to find a non-wrecking yard replacement for the rotor\hubs? The normal parts stores only seem to have 3/4 ton rotors.
Click to expand...

My donor axle was complete with 3/4 ton spindles, backing plates, and hub-rotor assemblies. I just put in all new bearings, races, and seals when I did the swap.

Napa online 1977 K20 hub rotor: HERE

Hope that helps.

Edit for your edit: There were two size spindles made. I can't remember which year corresponds to what size (do a search on the forum). It will impact which bearings and seals you get.
 
Hmm, now I'm more confused. My knuckles use 6 bolts to attach the hub and it looks like the 3/4 ton hubs have 8 bolts. Doesn't this mean I need to swap knuckles as well? It's been a while since I took mine aparts so maybe there's something I'm missing. Maybe I need to take a walk through the wrecking yard.
 
bp71k5 said:
Hmm, now I'm more confused. My knuckles use 6 bolts to attach the hub and it looks like the 3/4 ton hubs have 8 bolts. Doesn't this mean I need to swap knuckles as well? It's been a while since I took mine aparts so maybe there's something I'm missing. Maybe I need to take a walk through the wrecking yard.
Click to expand...

Noooo. The spindles attach to the knuckle using the six studs. The hub rotor assembly rides on the bearings on the spindle and is held on to the spindle by two slotted spindle nuts with the lock ring between them inside the hub. The eight bolts you see in the picture are the wheel studs.

Assuming internal hubs, order of assembly is: slide spindle on axle shaft to the knuckle. Slide on the backing plate and bolt down with the 6 nuts. Then rotor/hub assembly. Then inner spindle nut, lock ring, and then outer spindle nut. Snap ring on hub and retaining ring on axle shaft. Finish with hub lockout. Then add calipers.
 
Ok, I see now. So I can actually keep my spindles too. Just swapping the rotor\hub assembly makes it way easier. I rebuilt the axle about 2 years ago and remembered the spindle bolting on and wasn't sure if the number of bolts there matched the number of lugs.

I wonder why they added two lugs and didn't beef up the spindle to match?
 
The year split for the spindles is mid 1976 and earlier or mid 1976 and later. Assuming your spindles are still the original spindles you'll need to early style with the smaller inner bearing. I can order you the hub/rotor assemblies from work. The hardest part to find is the caliper brackets for the 3/4 ton.
 
Now I'm confused again. I can keep my existing calipers, but the brackets are different? I guess that makes sense since the rotors are likely in a different place in relation to the brackets?

I think I found some caliper brackets at the pick-n-pull today so I might be ok there. Also, while I was there, I found a C20 with a small full float axle in the rear. It looked like the size of a 10 bolt. Do you think that was factory?

I'm starting to add up all the costs and whew! The only reason I was considering this was because the rear axle tube has a big leak from the joint at the pumpkin. I think the tube has spun a bit and is also causing my back end to lean to one side.

So I thought "might as well..." switch to a full float axle while I'm at it to get better gears. Then I remembered I converted to rear disc brakes, so I'll need complete new rear brakes too.

Front hubs\rotors - $180
Front bearings, seals, pads etc. - $100
3.07 to 4.10 front gear swap - $300
Rear rotors - $120
Rear disc brackets - $60
rear calipers with ebrake - $300
14bff with 4.10 gears - $150
5 new 8-lug wheels - $360
------------------------------
$1480 + the stuff I always forget, all to fix my axle.:doah:
 
To do the front 8 lug conversion you're going to need, caliper brackets, hub/rotor assemblies, and new 8 lug wheels. The 8 lug rotors are a larger diameter than the 6 lug rotors so the caliper bracket moves the caliper further outboard to clear the rotor.

The rotors for the rear should not cost you anywhere near 120.00.
 
The rotors for the rear should not cost you anywhere near 120.00.
Click to expand...

You're right, they appear to be less than $50 each from a few parts stores I've been checking. I also found the eldorado calipers for the rear at $100 each so that's another $100 off. Maybe it's not so bad.

Know anyone with a ff or sf axle + 4.10 gears already setup for disc brakes?
 
Also, so if the brackets move the calipers outward, can I stick with 15" wheels? What about the rear axle? The rear disc conversion from TSM lists it as only being for 16" wheels or larger.

I'm starting to think just welding up the axle I have would be easier.:wink1:
 
You'll be hard pressed to find a 15" 8 lug wheel. They can be had but much harder to find. If you want aluminum wheels i don't think they even exist.

Don't buy a TSM brake kit. You can do the conversion much cheaper. If you don't care much about retaining an e-brake then it gets real cheap. Any front caliper from a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck will work but i suggest you use a 1976 or earlier to keep banjo bolt sizes the same as your fronts.
 
Even though I thought I'd forget this conversion till later, the rear end is literally dripping a significant amount of fluid every day. So I went for it and found a 14bff in the right ratio, ordered some discs and will be heading to pick-n-pull for some 76-78 eldorado calipers. I ordered the brake bracket kit from diy4x along with some spring perches for the new axle. I'll just tackle the rear end and do the front when the truck is running again.
 
bp71k5 said:
Even though I thought I'd forget this conversion till later, the rear end is literally dripping a significant amount of fluid every day. So I went for it and found a 14bff in the right ratio, ordered some discs and will be heading to pick-n-pull for some 76-78 eldorado calipers. I ordered the brake bracket kit from diy4x along with some spring perches for the new axle. I'll just tackle the rear end and do the front when the truck is running again.
Click to expand...

The front conversion should only take you an afternoon. It's an easy one for sure. There's a bit more in setting up the 14FF. While you're building it, I'd recommend replacing all the seals and bearings in the 14FF too. Might as well start off clean!
 
bp71k5 said:
Even though I thought I'd forget this conversion till later, the rear end is literally dripping a significant amount of fluid every day. So I went for it and found a 14bff in the right ratio, ordered some discs and will be heading to pick-n-pull for some 76-78 eldorado calipers. I ordered the brake bracket kit from diy4x along with some spring perches for the new axle. I'll just tackle the rear end and do the front when the truck is running again.
Click to expand...

Good luck finding caddy eldo calipers of the 76-78 vintage in a wrecking yard around here. I've looked for them for years and have never found any yet.
 
You might look for a factory 8 lug d44 w/4.10, it may be cheeper than converting. I see them around for less than 300 often in AZ. (although I did probably drop $120 in new calipers and rotors.) I also did a 14ff with front disks and calipers from a '77 and ruffstuff brackets, just no ebrakes...doh
 
I did find one for $500, but it was a factory 8 lug 71 dana44 with 4.10 with the big esternal locking hubs. Since I have crossover steering, I'd have to part most of that axle out and it would have been a shame and waste of money.

I did find the caliper brackets for the front. I guess all I need is the rotor\hub assembly.

Does anyone know if the bearings are the same between the 6-lug and the 8-lug front hubs? I just replaced the ones I have and would be cool if I could reuse them assuming their still ok.
 
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