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Dana 44 big or small hub?

k5blazerguy

1/2 ton status
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I made a deal with a guy that has a junk yard here. I have the choice between two Dana 44s. I don’t know much about the differences. I though one was a 60 at first cuz the hubs were much larger. But doesn’t have the kingpins so guessing it’s a 44 big hub. After researching, it was available in early 70s trucks. They are both still in the trucks. The other is in a late 70s suburban with 14 bolt rear. But that one is a smaller hub. I have a 79 blazer with a D44 front. I’m wanting to convert to 8 lug. I bought some H1 wheels already just wanted to swap axles out. I don’t do crazy rock crawling. For the most part it’s my weekend driver and occasionally take the kids out on trails in the mountains. My plan is to maybe do crossover steering also. My question is, which axle should I get? The main reason I like the bigger hub is it will look better with the H1 wheels. But I care more about which will work best. I don’t know enough about the 44 variations. Thanks.
 
If one has a flattop knuckle (usually the earlier ones tend to have this) then that is better for the crossover steering in the future.
Big vs little bearing makes almost no difference

The biggest thing is probably what gears are in them? Does one match your current rear gear? or your target gear? That is the most work/expense thing to change on the axles.
 
Spindles and hubs have been discontinued for a very long time now. If you have a choice, get the newer internal small hub for common parts availability.
 
Thanks mechted, I still have the factory gearing running 35s now. It’s crap. That’s why I’m upgrading axles. I don’t want to put money into my 1/2 tons. Both parts trucks have both front and rear axles in them. Maybe I should work a deal on both. I had picked up another D44FF. But after getting it home, found out it’s a 1 ton with narrow perches. Maybe I can get a deal for the set and not have to mess with welding new perches.

Obijuank5, thanks. That may be a good reason in itself to get the smaller hubs. I just like the way larger hubs looked. But I don’t want to make it harder for myself.
 
I had picked up another D44FF. But after getting it home, found out it’s a 1 ton with narrow perches.
.

what axle ? ? ? this makes no sense . as to spring perch width hack them off and weld new pair on . fairly easy .

bu can be better as you said to stop the mix - n - match game and grab a matched pair .
 
what axle ? ? ? this makes no sense . as to spring perch width hack them off and weld new pair on . fairly easy .

bu can be better as you said to stop the mix - n - match game and grab a matched pair .


Sorry 14boltFF i meant,...driving haha.
 
There is a small and big tube Dana 44 too.
The 1976 D44 flat top knuckle axle i swapped onto my M1009 has 2 3/4" dia tubes as opposed to other d44s and 10bolts with 3" tubes.
The small tube is .250 wall tubing though.
Really not a big deal except you'll need 3 smaller u-bolts.
The one 3 1/2" u bolt that goes over the case is the same for any d44 and 10bolt.
 
Another vote for the later small hub axle. The big hubs break easier and has a smaller outer bearing that doesn’t hold up to big tires very well. Get the matched set if you can on the axles. You will be miles and money ahead instead of having to worry about swapping gears as well. 1 ton rears have a narrower spring perch. It bolts up to older pre 73 trucks though. 3/4 ton has the same width as blazers and other 1/2 ton trucks.
 
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