I need to replace the stub axle on my Dana 44. I can do it if i have good instructions and pics to walk me thru it. I have a 77 Blazer that i am slowly working thru. So far i have replaced the 203 with a 205 and rebuilt the TH350. The stub axle is worn at the end keeping the snap ring on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
CK5
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Dana 44 Stub axle
- Thread starter aggiemike
- Start date
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
Depending on how bad it is the hardest part is replacing the u joint. Getting the rusty beat up one is the worst of it. Basically start by taking the wheel off. Then take off outer hub. There will be the snap ring holding the inner hub lock to the hub. Then take off outer lock nut. Then the lock spacer. Then the inner bearing nut. Then you can pull the hub off. Hold the hub strait so you don't drop the outer bearing on the ground. The you take off the six spindle nuts off and remove the spindle. You can now pull the axleshaft. Next gta get the clips off the Ujoint. It's best to use a press to pop the caps on the axle shaft through the yolk. Watch to make sure the ears aren't bending. Reverse to put it back together. Sorry I don't have pics.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
The outer snap ring is really not necessary on an internal lockout hub. The big ring that snaps into the inside of the hub itself does all the work to hold the lockout.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
Wow guess I didn't see that far when I read it. Is thè rest of the shaft bad? Or just the end that sits inside the hub lockout. If its just the snapring going on I wouldn't worry about doing that work. The shaft doesn't move enough to hurt anything without it. Mine hasn't had it on In the twelve years I've had my truck.
That snap ring is important on some spindles to keep the spindle bearing seal tight against the back of the spindle.
The hub and truck will work just fine without it, but if you go through deep water, the entire hub and bearing system will get full of water.
Of course, its such a poor seal system, that if you go much over the tire its going to get in there anyway.
Unless the entire end of the shaft is worn or rusted away, I'd just hit the groove with a file or dremel tool and clean it up.
The hub and truck will work just fine without it, but if you go through deep water, the entire hub and bearing system will get full of water.
Of course, its such a poor seal system, that if you go much over the tire its going to get in there anyway.
Unless the entire end of the shaft is worn or rusted away, I'd just hit the groove with a file or dremel tool and clean it up.
other than the quality replies you already have, I'll comment on the u-joints
it's not worth it to do yourself if the truck is at home
15 bucks a side and my local shop took the nasty ones off and put the new ones on
it's not worth it to do yourself if the truck is at home
15 bucks a side and my local shop took the nasty ones off and put the new ones on
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Yes, 15$ aint nothing, but he seems to have maybe not done it before, and its a good thing to know, as we all know what breaking something out in the sticks and not being able/knowing how to fix it can be.
And I dont run that little snap ring, just the big circle clip on mine. I take my hubs apart quite often to regrease and check wheel bearings as I do alot of water.
And I dont run that little snap ring, just the big circle clip on mine. I take my hubs apart quite often to regrease and check wheel bearings as I do alot of water.
do this minus swaping parts from 6 to 8 lug. and when hub/rotor off pull 6 more nuts and remove spindle and pull out shaft.
http://coloradok5.com/8lugconversion.shtml
and i have seen lots of 1/2 and 3/4 ton with no snap rings so its not the end of the world.
http://coloradok5.com/8lugconversion.shtml
and i have seen lots of 1/2 and 3/4 ton with no snap rings so its not the end of the world.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
I forgot to mention, go to the parts store and get the correct 4 prong nut socket to take of the wheel bearing nuts. THen putting on the inner bearing nut with the little nipple facing out,preload nut to 55 lb ft and back off 1/4 turn. Put it lock ring making sure it sits on the nub on the inner nut to lock it in place. Lock outer nut to 125 lb ft I believe.think I coveted it a lil better now. Lol. Even if you end up just cleaning up the end of your stub shaft and reusing it, it's good to know how to get your front end apart.
t
Thanks for the info. The rest of the shaft looks fine. I plan to replace the bearings but I am still working on getting it running again. I have the front clip off right now and shopping around for a motor. Its been alot of fun and i have learned a lot about metal work. This forum is the best source of info around, i have been a longtime lurker and usually find what i need searching the forums. Thanks again for all of the replies.
Thanks for the info. The rest of the shaft looks fine. I plan to replace the bearings but I am still working on getting it running again. I have the front clip off right now and shopping around for a motor. Its been alot of fun and i have learned a lot about metal work. This forum is the best source of info around, i have been a longtime lurker and usually find what i need searching the forums. Thanks again for all of the replies.
