CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Dana 60 Axles

doubletrouble

1/2 ton status
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Posts
2,151
Reaction score
3,881
Location
Milliken, Colorado
Wondering what your suggestion would be for front axle shafts in a Dana 60 running 47" tires? Need to decide what inners and outers to run along with what u joints. Thanks
 
^What he said. 47's on 1 ton's are doable, some dudes in TTC have done it, but if you notice just about all of them are running chromo 35 splines inner and outer with rcv joints (since the rcv's have the 6 "ball" design that spreads the load/force over a greater area instead of a normal joint that has 4 points to spread the load/force over, this is where they get their overall strength from). This plus upgraded knuckles (or at least braced stock knuckles yourself) will usually get you some long life out of your front end...depeding on how hard you are on your rig.

I still have concerns about my d60 with 44's. I have 35 spline inner and outer (non-chromo's) with drive flanges and stock knuckles. So far after every trail I have inspeacted my joints and knuckles and have been good so far after 6 months. I still have my steering in the stock location on the knuckles which I think will help their longevity, and I do not beat on my rig hard at all. If I start hopping, I let off the gas and back up for a new line. Plus, my bone stock tired TBI 350 can't turn them too fast anyways, haha. But mine is just a trail truck with no high HP speed stuff, so it suffices. If I brake shafts/knuckles that is when I will upgrade.

Oh, and on a side note, your rig is sick! I want to go wheeling with you one of these days.
 
^What he said. 47's on 1 ton's are doable, some dudes in TTC have done it, but if you notice just about all of them are running chromo 35 splines inner and outer with rcv joints (since the rcv's have the 6 "ball" design that spreads the load/force over a greater area instead of a normal joint that has 4 points to spread the load/force over, this is where they get their overall strength from). This plus upgraded knuckles (or at least braced stock knuckles yourself) will usually get you some long life out of your front end...depeding on how hard you are on your rig.

I still have concerns about my d60 with 44's. I have 35 spline inner and outer (non-chromo's) with drive flanges and stock knuckles. So far after every trail I have inspeacted my joints and knuckles and have been good so far after 6 months. I still have my steering in the stock location on the knuckles which I think will help their longevity, and I do not beat on my rig hard at all. If I start hopping, I let off the gas and back up for a new line. Plus, my bone stock tired TBI 350 can't turn them too fast anyways, haha. But mine is just a trail truck with no high HP speed stuff, so it suffices. If I brake shafts/knuckles that is when I will upgrade.

Oh, and on a side note, your rig is sick! I want to go wheeling with you one of these days.

I want to be able to beat the hell out of it and drive it hard! As long as it makes it back on the trailer I'm good. It has 35 spline inners and outers with drive flanges. The left side has a Reid racing knuckle, the right side is still stock. It has high steer arms but I tied them into the stock location also. It has a stock TBI 454 out of an early 90's truck. I'm trying not to upgrade the motor at all. I was hoping to not have to upgrade axles for awhile but looks like I have to do at least one side at this point. Glad you like the rig, I'd be happy to go wheeling with. Just gotta get it fixed. I read your build thread a few months back. At this point I was hoping to be tearing this thing apart and starting my new build but after 16 years at my current job I will be loosing my job at some point soon so gotta put it on hold. It's on hold not only for money reasons and that I don't know what I'm going to do for work but also because I have a 40x70 shop at work with a lift and so on that is all for my use. RCV's are around $2300 for a pair, with my racer discount from summit I can get Yukon 4340 inner and outers for around $700. Decisions!
 
Might be worth calling ORD and getting recommendations from Chris or Stephen. They both run healthy motors and I don't think either has RCV shafts.
 
Stephen and I both have Superior shafts, they're gone now.

The Yukons are probably the best bang for the buck, especially with your deal through Summit. Get a good u-joint too, Yukons are lifetime warranty if you use their shafts and joints together.

The RCV's are probably the best but obviously have the price point against them.
 
Stephen and I both have Superior shafts, they're gone now.

The Yukons are probably the best bang for the buck, especially with your deal through Summit. Get a good u-joint too, Yukons are lifetime warranty if you use their shafts and joints together.

The RCV's are probably the best but obviously have the price point against them.
Thanks for your input. I would buy the RCV's but I'm saving up to buy front and rear coil over kits from those awesome guys at ORD! I also want an ORD front bumper for my K5.
 
Top Bottom