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Dana 60 brake upgrade.

I thought there were 2 different brake sets on d60's from the factory, a jb7 and jb8 - which is the Bendix style - are you running those now? They're supposedly rated to 8k+ pounds if my old brain is remembering right, or are you just wanting more?
 
The old differences I've ever seen in (king pin) D60 brakes has been between car manufacturers. From the axles I've owned and worked on, all GM 60's have the same brakes.

I could be wrong but I think the main difference between the jb7 and jb8 brakes is the rear shoes, basically SRW vs DRW width.
 
I thought there were 2 different brake sets on d60's from the factory, a jb7 and jb8 - which is the Bendix style - are you running those now? They're supposedly rated to 8k+ pounds if my old brain is remembering right, or are you just wanting more?

When I bought brakes last their was only two choices srw and drw, like nvrenuf said above. Yes i would like better brakes, they seem to fade pretty good when heated. Just don't work like I want. I tried ebc pads and it helped some , so its time to try this out and see how it is. Another route for a firmer pedal would be a 2011 dmax master cylinder....so I've been reading anyway.
 
I put an aam axle in the back from a 2004 2500 when I did my d60. I mounted the same 2500 mastercyl and gutted the combo valve. Stops my truck real well.
 
Without, I had to swap to a 1 year newer vacuum booster as the snout diameter increased in 81+ vs my 80. Only thing I had to do was use some washers to shim the body of the mc down so it cleared the hood. The reservoir on that mc is huge.

You can take a look at it in my build HERE
 
Without, I had to swap to a 1 year newer vacuum booster as the snout diameter increased in 81+ vs my 80. Only thing I had to do was use some washers to shim the body of the mc down so it cleared the hood. The reservoir on that mc is huge.

You can take a look at it in my build HERE

I was told a dodge master cylinder for a 2500 ram would work better since the reservoir isn't as tall, not sure how much more nonsense that would of added tho. Looks like an awesome build, looks great. My 83 has been sitting for years.
 
Finally had time to do the brake kit. Welded new and mounts on with a .020 air gap between the sensor and the tone ring. You have to put the upper bolt in the mount b4 you bolt the new mounts on or you can't get the bolt in with the king pijn cap being in the way. The springless caps are taller than the regular tin caps. The studs in the pic are too short, i had to get dorman 610-303 that is 7/8 longer. With the 2011 duramax booster the brakes work great..

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Finally had time to do the brake kit. Welded new and mounts on with a .020 air gap between the sensor and the tone ring. You have to put the upper bolt in the mount b4 you bolt the new mounts on or you can't get the bolt in with the king pijn cap being in the way. The springless caps are taller than the regular tin caps. The studs in the pic are too short, i had to get dorman 610-303 that is 7/8 longer. With the 2011 duramax booster the brakes work great..

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I just ordered these brackets last week for my 60 build. I assume you’re running hydroboost with that duramax MC? I wonder what my best bet would be for a MC with my vacuum booster. That 610-303 stud work out ok? Thanks for the info.
 
I just ordered these brackets last week for my 60 build. I assume you’re running hydroboost with that duramax MC? I wonder what my best bet would be for a MC with my vacuum booster. That 610-303 stud work out ok? Thanks for the info.
Yes, those studs worked perfect. I needed to redrill the hubs to 17mm( .669)for them since they are .677. Using a hand drill I was getting .678-.682. That made em tight but they pressed in nicely. On the vac booster I have no idea. Maybe call them and see if they did it b4 and what they used.
 
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So those studs have enough threads once the wheels are on? Hard to tell from the pics on my phone. Are you running steel or aluminum wheels?

On the last 60 i built i used longer factory studs, but forget if they were off a dually or not. If thats not needed thats good to know, but always nice to have extra threads
 
So those studs have enough threads once the wheels are on? Hard to tell from the pics on my phone. Are you running steel or aluminum wheels?

On the last 60 i built i used longer factory studs, but forget if they were off a dually or not. If thats not needed thats good to know, but always nice to have extra threads
The studs in the picture are the ones that were too short.
 
Exactly, the studs in the pic were too short, on my aluminum 20s there was only like 3 threads engaged. It wasnt enough for me, I wouldn't drive it. The new stud part # are like 3/4 longer and have plenty of threads. I have the tall style lug nut, it was almost too many threads for those but it worked perfect. I'll look n see if I have one of each for an example for you. I called the brake bracket company and they said another part # but it was no help. I found these studs searching awhile on the dorman website. I really didnt want to drill the hubs if I didn't have too. I bought 2 good drill bits and used a 20v dewalt cordless drill, little wd40 spray and it worked pretty well.

If you were running stock steel wheels or a wheel with a thinner center you would be ok. I put a stock set of dodge steel wheels on the front to drive it home till I got the right studs.
 
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