Hey fella's, What size is the nut that holds on the pitman arm on the steering box? Also, I am installing a springless arm from Balistic Fab. How tight do I tighten the allen bolt on the steering arm? I have no idea. Thanks!
CK5
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Dana 60 Crossover Steering Questions?
- Thread starter munepit
- Start date
1 5/16"
Call Ballistic and ask about the preload. Toyotas use a tool like a fishing scale to set the drag on the knuckle bearings, around 14 lbs of drag, I would guess Dana 60s are around 20 lbs of drag.
Call Ballistic and ask about the preload. Toyotas use a tool like a fishing scale to set the drag on the knuckle bearings, around 14 lbs of drag, I would guess Dana 60s are around 20 lbs of drag.
Thanks bud. Calling them now!
Just called them, they said there is no specific torque setting. He said just get it tight.
my stock pitman arm nut was stripped.. not sure how but it was that way with the gearbox i got... however the shaft was ok...
so i used a front 60 ring and pinion.... it was bout double the width and grabbed more threads... i torqued that puppy down as tight as i could with a 5' pipe!!!!!!!!!!
so i used a front 60 ring and pinion.... it was bout double the width and grabbed more threads... i torqued that puppy down as tight as i could with a 5' pipe!!!!!!!!!!
owenst7
1/2 ton status
I have the same arms, and have messed with them a few times, most recently last week.
Around 14-15 ft*lbs is close on those arms if you just go by that set screw. Truth is, the preload on the bushing needs to be set by the resistance the tie rod experiences...The correct way to preload the kingpin is by measuring the kinetic force required at the tie rod hole when the knuckle is oriented straight forward...
In layman's terms, you need to use a spring scale in the tie rod hole and measure the force while the knuckle is turning (not to make it move, static friction is higher than kinetic). Somewhere buried in the Dana 60 repair manuals it says that this should be 25 lbs force.
If you wanna be this thorough, a spring scale for luggage or fish is easy to get at wal mart for instance for under 10 bucks. Its a good tool to have around for calibrating torque wrenches too. I just tested my Snap On that I was gonna pay to have calibrated after buying it for $25 at a pawn shop, only to find out it was within about 3% accuracy, which is probably my testing more than the wrench.
BTW those arms kick major ass. I've had no camber issues, even with 17" wide 40s. I've had some issues greasing them though. I ground a small groove into the bottom of the set screw and the edge of the flat washer to give the grease a guaranteed path down to the kingpin and bushing. Still kind of a pain, so I pack them real well every time I have the arm off. Also wish they would have drilled that grease zerk a bit further away from center. I can't get a socket around the jamb nut without removing the zerk first.
Around 14-15 ft*lbs is close on those arms if you just go by that set screw. Truth is, the preload on the bushing needs to be set by the resistance the tie rod experiences...The correct way to preload the kingpin is by measuring the kinetic force required at the tie rod hole when the knuckle is oriented straight forward...
In layman's terms, you need to use a spring scale in the tie rod hole and measure the force while the knuckle is turning (not to make it move, static friction is higher than kinetic). Somewhere buried in the Dana 60 repair manuals it says that this should be 25 lbs force.
If you wanna be this thorough, a spring scale for luggage or fish is easy to get at wal mart for instance for under 10 bucks. Its a good tool to have around for calibrating torque wrenches too. I just tested my Snap On that I was gonna pay to have calibrated after buying it for $25 at a pawn shop, only to find out it was within about 3% accuracy, which is probably my testing more than the wrench.
BTW those arms kick major ass. I've had no camber issues, even with 17" wide 40s. I've had some issues greasing them though. I ground a small groove into the bottom of the set screw and the edge of the flat washer to give the grease a guaranteed path down to the kingpin and bushing. Still kind of a pain, so I pack them real well every time I have the arm off. Also wish they would have drilled that grease zerk a bit further away from center. I can't get a socket around the jamb nut without removing the zerk first.
