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Dana 60 - Final Pattern

ZombieK5

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I think I'll go with this. I made a final adjustment for Backlash and had to adjust pinion Preload. All is set for new bearings and races.

Took some time off the project to put up Halloween decorations and fix some house stuff. Plus, setting the gears was becoming frustrating. I was OVER thinking the whole thing. I failed to set pinion depth FIRST then adjust the carrier left/right afterwards. I was adjusting everything each time I changed something.

I finally heeded a recommendation and set the pinion depth and then adjusted the carrier backlash. Even then the patterns never looked like the photos of "perfect" or ideal patterns.

I guess I was optimistic the pattern would end up being be pretty ovals and look like all the drawings and picture posted for "ideal" patterns. Thinking now that as long as the pattern is centered up/down on the tooth and centered top/bottom + or - a 1/4 inch, I'll be good to go. I can kill myself trying to get the perfect pattern in the photos. It's like trying to find the milk jug with the never expiring date.

20221001_175058.jpg

20221001_175107.jpg
 
You can get better idea of the pattern if you can load the ring gear with some(a lot) of resistance. The turn the pinion.
It does look good. Be sure to do proper break in. Then oil change after a few hundred miles.
 
You can get better idea of the pattern if you can load the ring gear with some(a lot) of resistance. The turn the pinion.
It does look good. Be sure to do proper break in. Then oil change after a few hundred miles.
Was thinking of putting the short axle in and have someone hold it tightly as I twist the pinion...
 
If it's a commanded locker that could work.
You could have some put a wrench on the ring bolt and hold against you turning. That works for drive side. Could loosen bolt for coast.
I am not talking about enough resistance to change the torque on the ring bolts
 
If it's a commanded locker that could work.
You could have some put a wrench on the ring bolt and hold against you turning. That works for drive side. Could loosen bolt for coast.
I am not talking about enough resistance to change the torque on the ring bolts
I have an Eaton TruTrac installed in the Dana 60.
 
If it's a commanded locker that could work.
You could have some put a wrench on the ring bolt and hold against you turning. That works for drive side. Could loosen bolt for coast.
I am not talking about enough resistance to change the torque on the ring bolts
Easiest way I have found is put my wrench on a ring gear bolt and whip it back and forth while loading the pinion. I usually press a piece of wood or cardboard against the yoke. Works great Imo…
 
Easiest way I have found is put my wrench on a ring gear bolt and whip it back and forth while loading the pinion. I usually press a piece of wood or cardboard against the yoke. Works great Imo…
I cant picture that in my head...
 
Torque down the pinion nut by holding the yoke with your hand and using an impact to bring down the crush sleeve then feel for preload. Occasionally would use a tool to hold the yoke firm and set final torque. Then use a wrench on the ring gear and rock it back and fourth to check the pattern and go from there.
 
Torque down the pinion nut by holding the yoke with your hand and using an impact to bring down the crush sleeve then feel for preload. Occasionally would use a tool to hold the yoke firm and set final torque. Then use a wrench on the ring gear and rock it back and fourth to check the pattern and go from there.
I have the pinion preload set and the pinion nut torque down to 250 lb. That preload is only about 17 inch pounds and does not seem to provide enough tension to give a serious pattern. I have been twisting the pinion by hand while using a leather glove to try and put tension on the carrier.
 
Preload with new bearings is between 17-30 in-lbs. Normally pre-set on the high side as the bearing/cup will seat in during use.
Nut spec is between 240-300 lbs-ft. Once the pinion is set run final pattern like your doing with the carrier bearing caps torqued to spec (80 lbs-ft.)
BTW, normally you should oil everything up real good before setting preloads and patterns. This includes bearings and the ring/pinion gear/teeth. Its OK (preferred?) to run the pattern with a few squirts of gear oil. Beyond that, put her in and see what she sounds like. Break in the gears per standard procedures.
 
Preload with new bearings is between 17-30 in-lbs. Normally pre-set on the high side as the bearing/cup will seat in during use.
Nut spec is between 240-300 lbs-ft. Once the pinion is set run final pattern like your doing with the carrier bearing caps torqued to spec (80 lbs-ft.)
BTW, normally you should oil everything up real good before setting preloads and patterns. This includes bearings and the ring/pinion gear/teeth. Its OK (preferred?) to run the pattern with a few squirts of gear oil. Beyond that, put her in and see what she sounds like. Break in the gears per standard procedures.
All that is done...

I'm gonna run with this pattern

I'll install the new Bearings, final check on pattern, Backlash and preload and put it all together.
 
Torque down the pinion nut by holding the yoke with your hand and using an impact to bring down the crush sleeve then feel for preload. Occasionally would use a tool to hold the yoke firm and set final torque. Then use a wrench on the ring gear and rock it back and fourth to check the pattern and go from there.
There should be no crush sleeve on this era Dana 60 pinion - crush sleeve D60’s didn’t come about until years later ;
just did not want Zombie to get confused with inaccurate data.
 

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