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Dana 60 Front Quick Question
- Thread starter TC4x4
- Start date
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Pinion nut is 1-5/16th thin wall. It has to be a thin wall or it wont fit inside the yoke. You can grind down a thick wall socket and try, I cracked the last one I did.
napa carlyle 61-4242 1-5/16" fits just fine and impact grade . i have done a few with it and just did one the other day . some times i have to take a die grinder bit and clean the junk out that packs around the nut and yoke for the socket to fit .
no crush sleeve style on our fronts . and i clean the splines and add a little rtv to seal them so gear oil wont weep past and look like a pinion seal leak .
no crush sleeve style on our fronts . and i clean the splines and add a little rtv to seal them so gear oil wont weep past and look like a pinion seal leak .
New question to anyone willing to share. What are some tips/tools to remove all the seals on a dana 60? Also, what is the proper way to remove the pinion bear, seal, race, etc? I looked at the stone guard I think #12 in the very first photo of the Dana 60 bible. http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Articles/Dana_60_Front_Axle_Bible/index.html Is this removable or fixed, cannot tell? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
the stone gaurd is a seal lip protector but can also be a bad thing grabbing grass and stuff and winding it up in there . so its 50/50 to keep it or run with out .can be popped off there a press fit on the yoke .
pinion bearing at yoke should be a slight snug fit . race is best driven out when the pinion is out of the housing - carrier out also to get pinion out . why do you ask this question ? your bearing bad or something ?
axle tube seals can be a bear to do by your self if you dont have the special tool for a 1 man job . and even worse with the axle under the rig if not on a lift . carrier is out for this also . and whole front end blown apart axles out / spindles off the knuckles brakes and hubs off . pic of special tool 1 of many brands .
big pry bar pops all the seals out easy if there is nothing in there way . otherwise the pinion seal with pinion in is the hardest but can be popped out with little work .
the wheel hub bearing seal on the back side is stupid easy . no tool required to pop it out . remove outer wheel bearing . reinstall OUTER spindle nut with NO PIN and have it on with full threads on nut . then drag the rotor/ hub off against the nut 2-3 times with a bit of force and the inner bearing will catch the spindle nut and be forced to stay on the spindle with the seal and bam the seal is out with no damage to any parts .
axle tube seals pop out with big pry bar when carrier is out of the housing . you do need to take time and clean the tubes out as there prob full of crap . long threaded rod with a fender washer 2" o.d. on one end with 2 nuts to clamp it to the rod . then cut almost 1/2 of the washer off to make a half moon. push in tube with cut off section down . turn 180* and drag all the junk out to the knuckle area .
anything else just ask .
pinion bearing at yoke should be a slight snug fit . race is best driven out when the pinion is out of the housing - carrier out also to get pinion out . why do you ask this question ? your bearing bad or something ?
axle tube seals can be a bear to do by your self if you dont have the special tool for a 1 man job . and even worse with the axle under the rig if not on a lift . carrier is out for this also . and whole front end blown apart axles out / spindles off the knuckles brakes and hubs off . pic of special tool 1 of many brands .
big pry bar pops all the seals out easy if there is nothing in there way . otherwise the pinion seal with pinion in is the hardest but can be popped out with little work .
the wheel hub bearing seal on the back side is stupid easy . no tool required to pop it out . remove outer wheel bearing . reinstall OUTER spindle nut with NO PIN and have it on with full threads on nut . then drag the rotor/ hub off against the nut 2-3 times with a bit of force and the inner bearing will catch the spindle nut and be forced to stay on the spindle with the seal and bam the seal is out with no damage to any parts .
axle tube seals pop out with big pry bar when carrier is out of the housing . you do need to take time and clean the tubes out as there prob full of crap . long threaded rod with a fender washer 2" o.d. on one end with 2 nuts to clamp it to the rod . then cut almost 1/2 of the washer off to make a half moon. push in tube with cut off section down . turn 180* and drag all the junk out to the knuckle area .
anything else just ask .
Thanks for the information and image Sweetk30, very helpful. I am completely dismantling, cleaning, restoring an axle for an old project. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/project-old-man-strength.334966/ The pinion seal just would. not. come out! I was worried I'd break or mess something up so I asked. But probably while you were typing, I got it out and figured out what's up. So to clarify, The picture you posted is how to install races and axle tube seals? Looks fun! I have the axle out and wide open to work on, so I hope that helps a novice some... Did I answer your question of why? Again, thanks for the help.
pry on #1 the cone comes with the seal . right in between the axle tube step and seal cone right were you have the arrow in the pic . pic to seal in your housing SEAL
fyi the pic i posted used the race just as a spacer so ignore it for what you were thinking .
if you have a ball joint press good . i used one of the spacer tubes i think #3 the biggest to drive the pinion seal in as there a stepped seal and need to be driven in so . they can pop out hard as the good seals have rtv already on them on the outside ring to seal to the housing body .
if you want to upgrade use this spicer seal for the ford dana 60's to have the better seals for the tubes . but they are a bear to install unless you have the tool . even then be careful . NEWER STYLE . you have to use a 3-4 lb dead blow hammer to install the axle shafts to the new seals as they fit real snug even with a little grease on the seal area to help slide in .
and
on the build i have been scanning it ever now and then . 
fyi the pic i posted used the race just as a spacer so ignore it for what you were thinking .
if you have a ball joint press good . i used one of the spacer tubes i think #3 the biggest to drive the pinion seal in as there a stepped seal and need to be driven in so . they can pop out hard as the good seals have rtv already on them on the outside ring to seal to the housing body .
if you want to upgrade use this spicer seal for the ford dana 60's to have the better seals for the tubes . but they are a bear to install unless you have the tool . even then be careful . NEWER STYLE . you have to use a 3-4 lb dead blow hammer to install the axle shafts to the new seals as they fit real snug even with a little grease on the seal area to help slide in .
and
on the build i have been scanning it ever now and then . Defintally will upgrade if there are better parts, in this case, the seals you referenced, available. Thanks for the lead. I guess I should be posting all these questions in the actual build thread so I can track all the information! Stay tuned.
copy and past this thread link to your build thread . keeps the high volume traffic on it in here but keeps it in your thread also .
looks like you already did just that
looks like you already did just that
