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dana 60 high steer *clearance question*pic

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poorboy1

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Location
Newberg,OR
Does anyone run crossover highsteer on a dana 60 with only 4" suspension lift? I just put mine on and even removed the crossmember under the harmonic balancer for room and it appears that you could hit the oil pan under extreme articulation. Just wondering if I'm wasting my time with the 4" lift.
 
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seen it done plenty of times. Sounds like you are way over flexing your springs if you are getting that close to the oil pan. If your springs are going negative(like the stock springs are normally arched) that is too far and will wear out your springs pretty quick.
 
4" spring with high steer crossover is my setup. Works fine....lot of pics in my gallery.


It's a 1st Gen, so that may not be a 100% guarantee for my later K5 brothers.
:wink1:
 
sled_dog said:
seen it done plenty of times. Sounds like you are way over flexing your springs if you are getting that close to the oil pan. If your springs are going negative(like the stock springs are normally arched) that is too far and will wear out your springs pretty quick.
Click to expand...


I usually flex the spring backwards, havent ruined them yet but I'm sure some day I will. I still have factory bump stops and I use them when jumping or flexing hard.

403115735IvRlbK_ph.jpg
[/IMG]

The hi steer came off an early 70's chevy and now its on a 75. I will just finish up the new eng crossmember then hit the RTI ramp, see what hit's. Might just have to go to 6" lift(I dont wanna loose the flex though) or bite the bullet and start a coilover front end.
 
Greg72 said:
4" spring with high steer crossover is my setup. Works fine....lot of pics in my gallery.


It's a 1st Gen, so that may not be a 100% guarantee for my later K5 brothers.
:wink1:
Click to expand...


I checked yur pics and you got WAY more clearance then me. You got a lil different crossover but your spring to frame clearance looks greater too.

steeringcross.JPG


I have removed the crossmember since this pic but you can get an idea of how close it was.
 
Has anyone tried to unhook the crossover arm from the box and try just hydrolic steering using the factory box?
 
it is straight. I was just looking at what I could do with it. Might put it in the tubing bender and put a slight bend in it, but then I suppose that would just give it a weak spot to bend on the trail?
I've already made a new crossmember that is not in the way, Just need to check if it will clear the pan under articulation. I really just need to take the truck out to my dads and put it on the RTI ramp and get some real measurements.
 
Most Chevys are going to have to run a bent draglink to clear the engine crossmemeber and keep the TREs at good angles.
Heres what mine looks like. The draglink is made out of 1 1/4"x.25 DOM, I doubt I will bend it.
Woops heres the pic:
100_1087.sized.jpg
 
good looking steering. The pics I saw where only crossover not high steer. One of the other possible issues I have and I might be getting ahead of myself is the high steer looks as if it will hit the steering arm. Again I might be worried over nothing but never hurts to ask. I will find out for sure this week when I try it I guess.
 
I ran my truck up on the ramp today and sure enough the high steer hits the steering arm. The cross over clears the new crossmember though. I will have to run a standard tie rod for now, until I 4 link the front and get some lift. Even with the lift though if I get enough flex its gonna hit again. Is there a different arm that has more clearance?

tierodhitting.jpg


I'm only about 3 feet up the ramp less than half way.
 
You could buy the double arms that put the tierod behind the axle. It is not cost effective as you have already bought the other arm but you could prolly sell the arms you have and buy the double arms.

Ira
 
sandawgk5 said:
You could buy the double arms that put the tierod behind the axle. It is not cost effective as you have already bought the other arm but you could prolly sell the arms you have and buy the double arms.

Ira
Click to expand...

That is an option, one I would like to avoid if I could. Not sure if the tie rod would clear the oil pan that way though.

Is the arm in the picture a drop arm? It was given to me so I'm not sure what a stock 2wd arm looks like. If it is a drop arm then maybe a standard arm would work?
 
That spring looks fairly flat, you could extend your bumpstops to stop the tie rod to pitman are contact.
Or you could get a pitman arm that doesn't drop as much and re bend your draglink.

Blake
 
I actually can flex the spring another 2" if the arm isnt there. I dont wanna move the bump stops cause then I loose 1/2 my articulation just to gain hi steer. Isnt worth it to me. I will look around for a different steering arm I suppose. Just have to run regular tie rod for now.
 
poorboy1 said:
I ran my truck up on the ramp today and sure enough the high steer hits the steering arm. The cross over clears the new crossmember though. I will have to run a standard tie rod for now, until I 4 link the front and get some lift. Even with the lift though if I get enough flex its gonna hit again. Is there a different arm that has more clearance?

tierodhitting.jpg


I'm only about 3 feet up the ramp less than half way.
Click to expand...




Mvc_386f.jpg


Weird....


It looks like your tie rod is mounted in FRONT of the draglink. Mine is just the opposite.... :thinking:
 
Yep thats your problem. Drgalink goes in the front hole while the tie rod goes in the back.
 
Thats the pic I've been looking for. Well I installed the unit as I got it. The tie rod and all were already bolted to it. Now If I move my tie rod as this one is the left side will still be under the arm cause there is only 1 hole on the left side, I'll need to redrill but that might work.
 
Greg72 said:
Mvc_386f.jpg


Weird....


It looks like your tie rod is mounted in FRONT of the draglink. Mine is just the opposite.... :thinking:
Click to expand...


My arms on each knuckle are alot longer, Well this is probly why the guy I got it from upgraded? Thanks for the pic again.
 
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