Dana 60 inner axle rubbing on housing tube

[folkenheath]

Can't find this info anywhere, I bought 35 spline stub shafts, I ordered spicers and ended up with 4340 Yukon stub shafts (free upgrade do to stock status I guess, this was a few months ago). After I put the snap ring on the stub shaft to hold the axle in place before I install the locking hub cover, I was testing things, and even with the axle pushed all the way in, the snap ring isn't against the hub. The snap ring is still about 1/32" away from the hub when the inner axle contacts the axle housing. So the snap ring isn't doing anything. Is this common?

The reason I question the Yukons is because I had to grind the outside of the ears a little, or they wouldn't even fit through the knuckle. And I also had to clearance grind them, because them combined with the stock inners reduced my steering angle so much it was ridiculous.

Everything assembles fine, including the locking hub, and everything works fine. I can't hear it rubbbing if I just rotate it, but it could, should I be concerned?

Run it? Grind it clear? I don't have the stock stub shafts anymore to check. Unless there is a measurement I can double check for the stub shaft u-joint to snap ring groove. Or is this pretty common?

Is there a little spacer washer I could use to space the axle away from the housing between the snap ring and the hub?

 

[miniwally]

That snap ring is there for the spindle to stub shaft seals to be held correctly and keep them sealing.

The important thing is to make sure that you have these seals engaged. I run a spacer set up with my drive slugs cut out of 1 3/4" .120 wall DOM tubing. maybe you can do something like this.

 

[folkenheath]

Thanks for the quick reply. I think the seals are engaged, because it can't really move that much, probably about 1/16" axial play, and that axial seal that slides onto the slinger has quite a bit of flexability. I am worried about the inner axle rubbing on the housing.

But that spacer out of 1 3/4 - .120" wall tube is a good idea. I was wondering if anyone made a washer or if I could make one, and that is perfect, especially since I already have some of that tube laying around. I would just have to measure and find the right thickness to leave a small amount of play in there so it isn't tight, but it can't hit the inner housing, and have someone turn them on the lathe. And like you said, it would make sure my seals are pressed against the spindle too.

 

[GreenieK30]

Yukon is pushing the imported crap shafts instead of Spicer. I ordered a complete set of Spicer front shafts and got Spicer stubs and Yukon inners , the inners rub and one broke while the Spicer is still good. The shafts are made in India and they are not made to the correct dimensions or proper alloy, they just pour in whatever metal they have that day, quality is hit or miss.

 

[folkenheath]

Were they the standard Yukon crap, or the 4340 yukon upgraded crap?

 

[folkenheath]

Does carrier bearing race work?

Well, I dug into it a little more last night. And did some more searching this morning.

You are right Brandon, the shaft is not fully seating the seals, and it can move a lot further than I thought, I just wasn't pulling hard enough. It can move probably .200" - .250". The spacer wouldn't fix the whole problem, unless I also cut the end of the shaft off, because the shaft can hit the locking hub center about .090" before the thrust washer in the spindle stops it.

And the inner shaft hits the housing tube about .060" before the snap ring contacts the hub center. So, I either need to cut the stub off about .100" AND make a spacer or cut a new snap ring groove.

Or put the carrier bearing race inplace of the inner wheel bearing race. I have read that moves it anywhere from .100" - .175". So which is it? I don't want to limit the stub so much it can't center itself. Also, does the wheel hub seal still fit in place properly if the bearing is spaced out that far? Has anyone actually tried this? I see a lot of posts on it, but not really any answers yet.

Thank you.

EDIT: I found the specs and the races, the 382s is .173" longer than the 382a, but has a larger radius, so it might actually seat down into the hub further? Has anyone done this? Does the seal still fit?

I suppose the best way would be to cut the shaft off and cut a new snap ring groove or make a spacer. Then you don't move the seal and brakes out 3/16", but then you have to do that again if you replace the shaft.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Obviously the shaft is either wrong or mismade, why not return it and get another one (obviously calling the vendor first to explain what's going on)?

 

[folkenheath]

I did call the vendor a couple days ago (who is reputable and I trust them, they are a vendor here too). And they said that is a common occurance with the 35 spline stub shafts and the warn premium hubs. They said the tolerances aren't tight enough from the original axles, and the warn hub dial is made for the 30 spline stub shafts, not the 35, they(Warn) just use it again with the larger inner spline. The vendor usually just cuts the stub shaft off and runs them that way on their own stuff unless it is going to see a lot of water/mud.

They also said the axle centers the u-joint in the kingpin axis when turning (obviously), and you can't limit it too much or it can damage the spindle or hub bearing, they've seen it before. So I want to limit it just enough to prevent rubbing and keep sealing, but still let it center itself.

So I have a feeling if I get another one it will be the same way. Also, I don't know if I can return it after all the grinding I had to do on the ear end for the knuckle clearance and steering angle.

 

[4X4HIGH]

I run 35 spline stubs and I do not have this problem. I also am not running chromo shafts though either. If it were me I would not run it unless it was correct but that's just me. I would buy a different brand if I had to and would not settle for anything I was not happy with. Oh, I also did not have to grind on the stub or the knuckle to install my 35 spline outers.

 

[folkenheath]

I run 35 spline stubs and I do not have this problem. I also am not running chromo shafts though either. If it were me I would not run it unless it was correct but that's just me. I would buy a different brand if I had to and would not settle for anything I was not happy with. Oh, I also did not have to grind on the stub or the knuckle to install my 35 spline outers.

Well I won't run it unless it's correct either. But I have a pretty good feeling no matter what brand I order, the length and snap ring placement will be the same after talking with the vender.

The knuckle clearance, I agree, that's just dumb on Yukons part.

The steering clearance, I think would of been fine if both inner and outer were the same manufacturer, but the 4340 outer combined with the stock 86 inner did not agree with each other. I took the material off the outer because the material is stronger, and it's still equal to or larger than the inner.

Also, just to clear things up, I did not have to do any of this spacer/ stub cutoff to install it (except the grinding on the outer ear), in fact, I have already driven it a couple miles on a test drive and it worked fine, I just noticed this problem when I was assembling, knew it wasn't a showstopper for my trip, and didn't have time to address it then, so I took it apart now to investigate further. But it goes together just fine, and the hub installs just fine, I am just trying to prevent problems down the road, so I am checking into it. The only reason I know the axle hits the hub before it hits the thrust washer is becaue I loosened the hub and pushed the axle all the way out with the wodden handle, and it moved the hub. So, it has the potential to hit the hub during operation, that does not mean it will. Have you ever used a wooden handle to push and pull your axleshafts all the way in or out to test this, or did you assemble and assume it was clearing? You may have the same condition and not even know it.

With that said, I originally ordered Stock spicer 35 spline stubs, and got these as a free upgrade. If I were to order hardened shafts myself I would of ordered US made Moser or Superior shafts, not yukon junk, but it was free, so I thought I would try it. Looking back at all the grinding and stuff I would of just returned them for what I ordered, even if I had to wait, but what is done is done. I still think they will be stronger than the stock spicers anyway.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Have you ever used a wooden handle to push and pull your axleshafts all the way in or out to test this, or did you assemble and assume it was clearing? You may have the same condition and not even know it.

Yes I did and in fact there is hardly any play once the snap ring is in place. I also compared every dimension of the spicer 35 spline stub to the original 30 spline stub and EVERYTHING was an EXACT match. I did not have to grind any portion of the stub to make it fit through the knuckle nor did I have to trim any off the end to clear my locking hubs.

 

[folkenheath]

That's interesting information. You are using the warn premium hubs too right?

The spindle I would think would be pretty consistant, along with the locking hub. So the depth of the wheel hub (bearing offset, etc), and the stub shaft are the only other variables there. Maybe I should measure my stub shafts and call a reputable manufacturer to see what they are supposed to be if I can't find that info first.

 

[rob h]

I just did yukon 35 spline stubs in my 60, i had to grind them a slight bit to fit. Other than that they have fit and been ok. I drove it around to see if the hub would lock by itself like ive read but so far so good. I really hope i dont have any other problems and i hope they are stromger than stock....that would defeat the purpose of changing them.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Yes I am running the Warn premium 35 spline hubs (not the early style with the lockout screw).

I was going to find the part number for the hubs I used but Dynatrac did not give a part number on the receipt.

The stub shafts i'm running are Spicer part number DAN3-82-971 (bought from Randy's Ring & Pinion) it has a footnote that says 12" (i'm guessing 12" long but don't know where they are measured from).