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Dana 60 Inner/Outer Shaft U-Joints: Are they replaceable? If so, stock #'s???

M

MuddinManny

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Hey Y'all,

Since I have to rebuild my kingpins on my D60, I am wanting to do a thorough job. I do not have the cash to put Bobby Long's Chromolies in right now, so I was thinking/wanting to replace the knuckle inner/outer shaft u-joints. All search information shows the shaft as one piece, and the extensive article(s) at www.pirate4x4.com only show the item (55) as one piece. So my question is:

1. Can you purchase replacement knuckle u-joints?
2. If so, what do you recommend?
3. Can you supply a link to reputable vendor or supply a stock/part #

Please help. I have no Dana 60 experience and the search history on this partucular item is so extensive, it would take eternity to pin point this exact information.

Thanks!

Manny
 
MuddinManny said:
Hey Y'all,

Since I have to rebuild my kingpins on my D60, I am wanting to do a thorough job. I do not have the cash to put Bobby Long's Chromolies in right now, so I was thinking/wanting to replace the knuckle inner/outer shaft u-joints. All search information shows the shaft as one piece, and the extensive article(s) at www.pirate4x4.com only show the item (55) as one piece. So my question is:

1. Can you purchase replacement knuckle u-joints?
2. If so, what do you recommend?
3. Can you supply a link to reputable vendor or supply a stock/part #

Please help. I have no Dana 60 experience and the search history on this partucular item is so extensive, it would take eternity to pin point this exact information.

Thanks!

Manny
Click to expand...

Straight from the Dana 60 Bible.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]New Cold Forged joint (Spicer calls these the “Spicer Life Series” ) [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Greasable: Spicer SPL55-4x also called 5-733x [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Permanently Sealed: SPL55-3x, also called 5-806-x
[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ira
[/FONT]
 
sandawgk5 said:
Straight from the Dana 60 Bible.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]New Cold Forged joint (Spicer calls these the “Spicer Life Series” ) [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Greasable: Spicer SPL55-4x also called 5-733x [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Permanently Sealed: SPL55-3x, also called 5-806-x
[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ira
[/FONT]
Click to expand...

:bow: Okay, great! Next question:

1. Are permanently sealed better than greasable?
2. Where can I get these puppies?

I owe you a case of beer. Where do I send it?

Manny
 
MuddinManny said:
:bow: Okay, great! Next question:

1. Are permanently sealed better than greasable?
2. Where can I get these puppies?

I owe you a case of beer. Where do I send it?

Manny
Click to expand...

I have sealed in mine no proof but I feel non-greasable are a tad bit stronger as the cross is not hollow like the greasable ones.

Ira
 
sandawgk5 said:
I have sealed in mine no proof but I feel non-greasable are a tad bit stronger as the cross is not hollow like the greasable ones.

Ira
Click to expand...

Roger that!

I'm ordering sealed units as we speak. The guy who acid dipped my 14 Bolt hubs is going to dip my knuckles and the yokes on the axle shafts. I'm gonna get them nice and clean, build them tough and have a rock solid D60. Wasn't expecting this, but I believe that the Good L-rd above is watching over me and knew something I didn't. He makes ways for me always! So I'm praisin' and singin' :bow:

Thanks again for everything! I really do appreciate my CK5.com Family!

Manny
 
You have already ordeered them but I will still put in my .02.

For your application I would strongly think about a greasable u joint. IMO the non greasables will leak muddy water into the cross with time and then rust a damage the joint beyond repair and cause it to be weak. The greasables are at least a known quantity and you can grease them after every trip to purge any water and crap that got in them.

I have run both the greasable and non greasables in the buggy. With normal use I have not had a problem. I have broken 1 non greasable but I did a couple of things to it that were not "normal" wheeling type stuff.
 
miniwally said:
You have already ordeered them but I will still put in my .02.

For your application I would strongly think about a greasable u joint. IMO the non greasables will leak muddy water into the cross with time and then rust a damage the joint beyond repair and cause it to be weak. The greasables are at least a known quantity and you can grease them after every trip to purge any water and crap that got in them.

I have run both the greasable and non greasables in the buggy. With normal use I have not had a problem. I have broken 1 non greasable but I did a couple of things to it that were not "normal" wheeling type stuff.
Click to expand...
You know, I thought about it a lil' after I ordered them. Since it is my intention some time next year to upgrade to Bobby Long's sealed chromolies which are sealed, I opted to go with the Spicer sealed units. If delay happens, I'm gonna get a set of greasable back ups.

Thanks for your .02. It's worth a million to me! :waytogo:

Manny
 
Also one thing that you need to do when you get them is tack the caps to the axle shafts. I believe that about 75% of breakage of shafts is caused from the ears stretching a little then it spits a cap, after that it just breaks the joint and the axle ears.
 
85mudblazin said:
Also one thing that you need to do when you get them is tack the caps to the axle shafts. I believe that about 75% of breakage of shafts is caused from the ears stretching a little then it spits a cap, after that it just breaks the joint and the axle ears.
Click to expand...


Seriously???

Wouldn't tack welding the u-joints damage the yoke ears by weakening them? I'm not doubting you, it's just I never heard this before. I appreciate the tip. I would have never known that. Tack welding won't hurt the u-joint any will it? What happens if the u-joint fails with the cap welded?

Sorry for the stupid noob questions, but this is the first u-jointed axle with inner/outters I've ever had. No experience whatsoever.

Merry Christmas!

Manny
 
On mine I ran 2 welds about 3/8" long, basically just 2 tacks next to each other.
I did this on either side of the cap.
No you not putting enough heat in it to affect the strength or to boil the grease out.
 
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