Dana 60 King Pins?

[Dheater]

OK,

On my way to stock piling the weapons of my build, I have obtained a Chevy 60. My question, I have it torn done to the housing. The knuckles are off how do you tell if the king pins are worn?
There is no deep grooves, pits etc. I did not see any metal shavings in the grease/ plastic bushing.
I have the Ampco (bronze) bushings to go back in, and will be investing in aftermarket knuckles.
TIA

 

[mtnman210]

If you're going to spend the money on nice NEW aftermarket knuckles, why not replace the kingpins at the same time. Unless for the fact you know they are a fresh rebuild, at your current point I'd say swap in some new ones or at least a kingpin rebuild kit. But if you've really got everything torn down that far and are planning a set of new parts why skimp on the king pins.

 

[Dheater]

If you're going to spend the money on nice NEW aftermarket knuckles, why not replace the kingpins at the same time. Unless for the fact you know they are a fresh rebuild, at your current point I'd say swap in some new ones or at least a kingpin rebuild kit. But if you've really got everything torn down that far and are planning a set of new parts why skimp on the king pins.

Yep, I have it torn down this far, good point. I will order up new king pins, and figure out how fun/long this breaker bar will get.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Work smart, not hard.

Two ways:

Cut a groove all around the circumference of the kingpin *just* above the surface of the inner C (don't cut into the C) using a cut off wheel. This relieves all of the hold that the kingpin has and it spins right out.

Weld a big nut onto the kingpin. The heat from welding will make it come out easier, plus you won't risk stripping out or bending the 7/8" allen wrench.

 

[Russell]

I got a piece of 7/8" hex bar stock, cut a chunk off, stuck it in the king pin and a 7/8" deep socket on the pneumatic impact wrench and went to town! Made quick work of them!

 

[cybrfire]

Work smart, not hard.

Cut a groove all around the circumference of the kingpin *just* above the surface of the inner C (don't cut into the C) using a cut off wheel. This relieves all of the hold that the kingpin has and it spins right out.

I do it this way everytime now. Especially when the knuckle is already off the axle. Simple as pie.

 

[4X4HIGH]

I just made the proper tool and mine came out easier than pie.

For the reinstall I broke out my 200-600 ft/lb Snap-on torque wrench and properly torqued them to spec of 600 ft/lbs.

 

[blazinzuk]

Proper tool and a good impact wrench. No problems

I have use about a 6 ft breaker bar on the proper tool too, was also easy

 

[dirtygoat]

This is something I wish I would have done when I had mine apart...

Probably never gonna be an issue, but it's always in the back of my head... That kinda crap drives me nuts...

 

[chevysmithz71]

Now that we all know how to get them loose, how do we tell if they're worn??

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Now that we all know how to get them loose, how do we tell if they're worn??

Grooves in them, ideally they would be smooth.

 

[Dheater]

Grooves in them, ideally they would be smooth.

That is how mine are smooth, It looks like this thread lost some info. We did conclude that the king pin rebuild kits from ORD had the king pins correct? I know something was going to be checked today. These are the kits that have the bearings, races, seals etc. it just does not list having the actual pins.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

That is how mine are smooth, It looks like this thread lost some info. We did conclude that the king pin rebuild kits from ORD had the king pins correct? I know something was going to be checked today. These are the kits that have the bearings, races, seals etc. it just does not list having the actual pins.

Yes, the kingpins themselves are in the kit.

 

[kicker30]

For the reinstall I broke out my 200-600 ft/lb Snap-on torque wrench and properly torqued them to spec of 600 ft/lbs.[/quote]

Since those things cost like $700 what is the best alternative for someone who doesn't have one or the cash to buy one?

 

[4X4HIGH]

For the reinstall I broke out my 200-600 ft/lb Snap-on torque wrench and properly torqued them to spec of 600 ft/lbs.

Since those things cost like $700 what is the best alternative for someone who doesn't have one or the cash to buy one?[/quote]

100 lbs on the end of a 6' cheater bar, or 200 lbs on the end of a 3' cheater bar.

 

[sweetk30]

700 new yes.

300 shipped used off ebay better

 

[kicker30]

300 shipped used off ebay better

I think I'll take the moment calculation with the 3' or 6' cheater bar

 

[4X4HIGH]

700 new yes.

300 shipped used off ebay better

Even better was $172.00 from E-bay delivered to my door with a fresh calibration cert.

 

[ssyork]

Even better was $172.00 from E-bay delivered to my door with a fresh calibration cert.

Thats killer!

 

[76zimmer]

I just made the proper tool and mine came out easier than pie.

For the reinstall I broke out my 200-600 ft/lb Snap-on torque wrench and properly torqued them to spec of 600 ft/lbs.

Mine came out easier than melted butter: