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Dana 60 rebuild

45acpJr

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 7, 2003
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Location
Tucson, Az
I decided to dive in to my dana 60 this afternoon. How far into it should I go? Obviously replacing wheel bearings, races, calipers, rotors, and studs. What else should I be replacing? As far as other upgrade I am doing a ORD crossover kit. Also for those who are running recentered h1 wheels, do I need a longer stud?
 
kingpin bushing and lower bearing (complete rebuild kit)
check the kingpin, if it's worn out, enjoy replacing
if you are doing any diff work, replace the seals and bearings on the carrier
while it's all apart, beat the spindle (axle) caged needle bearings out of the spindle and replace with longfield nylon bushings
 
why does everyone wana replace wheel bearings / races. :doah: these axles are servicable units. unless there is damage to them just clean / repack with grease. that will save you min $100 bucks to go someplace else if there good. http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/maintdiag/Documents/6347.pdf

wheel studs can be reused when swaping out rotors. and there around 2.50-3.00 bucks each these days x 16 of them = more money not needed. recentered rims = std studs .

yes do a king pin reman kit per side good money spent as most need it by now . and if you want best long lasting upgrade to bronze king pin bushings.

calipers if pistion goes back in smooth & no leaks around pistion seal then run them . but i would do new hardware kit tho. new wedge/spring/bolt.

if doing axle seals like other guy said upgrade to the newer ford style seal that is 2 seals in 1 and spin on them self not the shaft. thay seal better. but can be tricky to install.

i live in the rust belt of hell and got a used 60 from a worn out crewcab drw . swaped srw hubs on and reused bearings calipers and redid king pins minus new pins and changed the diff oil . put it under my first truck and run 33-38" tires for years in mud / snow / plowing / what ever. she still going strong after 10+ years with me . and no major work done. still has aftermarket cheepy u-joints on the shafts that were in it then .
 
Speaking of the lower bearing cap, what holds it on besides the 4 bolts? I can not get this thing off
 
RUST and tight snug fit.

hammer and punch twisting it back n forth and get a small gap and wedge it in and down . then wire wheel and anti seize it up before reinstall.
 
If you aren't interested in spending the coin on Stage8 bearing adjusters, get a set of the later style ones off a 14 bolt. There's only one nut, which is locked by a woodruff key and then a snap ring locks the woodruff key to the spindle threads. Have never had an issue with those and they are on all four corners of my truck now, and have used them on many axles in the past.
 
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