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Dana 60 Ubolt stud Qs *Updated*

randy88k5

randy88k5

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Well, axle is about to go in, and I wanted to get the studs set before the springs went in. The studs do not bottom out in the threads in the case. The holes in the case are exactly 1.5", and the threaded portion of the new stud is just a little over 1".

This is brand new hardware made by Superlift. Has all three ubolts, the 2 studs, and nylock locking nuts for all of them.

Am I missing something here??? :confused:
I cant torque them down cause I will start eating the threads of the case with the unthreaded portion of the stud.
What should I do?? :confused:
 
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They will be just fine. Go ahead and tighten them down. You won't have problems with anything. 1" of thread engagement is plenty for these axles.
 
thatK30guy said:
Go ahead and tighten them down
Click to expand...

How tight, just snug them up?

Im afraid that once I get the spring plate on and put the nuts on the upper portion of the stud that I might spin the stud further. Well, maybe not if the spring plate keeps the nut from going further down.

Im sorry Im just a little worried, as these axles are a little hard to come by around here...

Just hand tighten them and leave them?

Should the nuts on the upper portion be torqued down to 150 ft.lb or do they have their special torque setting?
 
randy88k5 said:
How tight, just snug them up?

Im afraid that once I get the spring plate on and put the nuts on the upper portion of the stud that I might spin the stud further. Well, maybe not if the spring plate keeps the nut from going further down.

Im sorry Im just a little worried, as these axles are a little hard to come by around here...

Just hand tighten them and leave them?

Should the nuts on the upper portion be torqued down to 150 ft.lb or do they have their special torque setting?
Click to expand...

You need to double nut the stud and tighten it the same spec as the u-bolt nuts. 150 ft.lbs. is too much, IMO. I'd do 100 ft.lbs. and check it every 100 miles for about 500 miles. Use Lock-tite on the threads, too.
 
Sorry to disagree, But.... Do not torque the stud, just finger tight into the hole. You do not want them to bottom out the threads under any circumstances.
 
Did you read his reply of the hole being 1.5" deep and the threads going 1" on the studs? The studs will not bottom out as there is still 1/2" left to go in the hole.
 
That is what I originally thought, but the stud is not threaded down any further. I would be forcing the unthreaded portion of the stud through the hole, which will destroy the threads. I cant torque it down to spec.

That is why I stopped before. Once all the threads were in, the stud did not stop spinning. I messed up the first thread a little, but not too bad. The stud still goes in and coms out OK. If it were to be torqued down any tighter, I would expect to see a collar or countersunk piece on the stud to engage the housing. The stud is just a plain stud.
 
thatK30guy said:
Did you read his reply of the hole being 1.5" deep and the threads going 1" on the studs? The studs will not bottom out as there is still 1/2" left to go in the hole.
Click to expand...

Yes, i was refering to bottoming out the THREADS.

ARP stud instructions specify: "The stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only along the vertical axis."
 
thor said:
Yes, i was refering to bottoming out the THREADS.

ARP stud instructions specify: "The stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only along the vertical axis."
Click to expand...

Hmmmm...... :thinking: :thinking: :thinking: :thinking: :thinking: Thats a new one for me now.

I had a stud kit from the old Rugged Trail line of lift back in the early, early 90's and I remember their instructions stating to torque the stud with double nuts to XX-ft.lbs. (can't remember exactly) and then tightening the nut on that afterwards.
 
150 ft lbs, that seems high, arent most people running about 100?
 
OK, well ran into a problem.

The studs do not seem to be threaded all the way to the spring plate. I feel like I must be missing something. These are spring plates from Kurt. I did flip them uspide down from what is shown in the picture, and it still is too long. What is your thoughts? Am I missing something? Do I have the wrong stud? :mad: :confused: :mad:

Just for fun, take a look at the height of the axle... Gonna be hard to get 37" SSRs under there :doah: :haha:

IMG_0776 (600 x 450).jpg

IMG_0777 (600 x 450).jpg
 
Looks like the wrong studs. If I was to make a guess I think the superlift front spring packs are thincker than what looks like TC's you have...
 
Simple. Remove the studs and get grade 8 bolts instead with the length you need to fit those plates.

You will need 5/8" coarse threaded grade 8 bolts by however long you need to seat the bolt heads squarely on the u-bolt plate.

Don't want to run bolts? I would say the majority of all D60 fronts are using bolts rather than studs with no problems at all.
 
Yeah, good call, those are TC EZrides. Got the new hardware from Steve at ORD. Says Superlift on the box. The Ubolt does fit in and there is thread room below the plate, but not much, 1/4 - 1/2" at a glance. Didnt think there would be much of a difference between spring packs. My stock springs were the flat 2 leaf design. I thought the TCs were thick compared to them. Ill call him in the AM.

Anyone else seen this before???
 
ARP studs get screwed in finger tight, then they are torqued down, you are then supposed to lossen the bolt and retighten it to get the proper stretch. in this case the proper torque specs for a 5/8 inch stud is 187 lbs with ARP moly lube.
 
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