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Dana 60 vs. 44 swap

B

BMR

1/2 ton status
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Feb 25, 2001
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How much more difficult is it to swap in a Dana 60 than a 44?
Is there a problem if it is from a 3/4 ton or a 1 ton? Is it worth it?
 
The spring perches on the Dana 60s I have swapped in have been in the right location, so that was good. I was doing a lift at the same time, so I was getting new brake hoses and drivelines anyway. A Dana 60 hangs down an extra 1/4" and has a 9.75" ring gear as opposed to the 8.5" ring gear on the Dana 44. Most Dana 60s will be 8 lug, and the Dana 44 will only be 8 lug if it's off a 3/4 ton. The rear end becomes a factor because you might be putting in a GM Corporate 14 bolt full floater at the same time, which would be 8 lug. Also, a Dana 60 front end will cost at least $2,000, while you could find a 3/4 ton Dana 44 for a fraction of that (e.g. $100-$600). What would you be replacing? You're not a Jeeper, are you? Just kidding
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A JEEPER!!!! Ouch!
It would be replaceing a 10-bolt from a 85 K5.
To tell the truth the entire driveline is going to be replaced. With either 3/4 or 1 ton parts. Just want to make sure that I am educated before I tear sh*t apart.
 
What do you have in the rear now? What will you do about the rear? I just went all 1 ton (a huge financial sacrifice--it hurt), but I'm glad I did because I feel secure about beating it up now.
 
Right now it is a stock 10-bolt with 3.73's. I am looking on buying a donor 3/4 or 1 ton truck with a 14-bolt rear and a 44 or 60 front. I don't feel confindant about my 10's. And since I am going to need to get new driveshafts anyway, might as well get the axles and do it right the fisrt time.
 
There's really no comparison between the 60 and 44 when it comes to strength, the 60 is way beefier. If you swap from the current 10-bolt to a 44, you really are gaining very minimal, if any, strength increase.

The only reason to swap in the 44 would be to get the matching 8-lug bolt pattern or a matching gear ratio for the rear you are getting (swapping in an entire front axle is sometimes cheaper than regearing an existing axle). However, the 8-lug hub assemblies could be taken off a donor 44 and swapped onto the 6-lug 10-bolt.

Also remember that 3/4 ton trucks did not come with a front 60, only 1-tons did. The 3/4 tons had an 8-lug 44 front up until '77 or so, and then they started phasing in the 8-lug 10-bolts. In my opinion, I almost prefer getting a 10-bolt because parts seem much easier to find and are newer (were used up to '87 in pickups and to '91 in Blazers and Suburbans).
 
Hey all
Are the shafts and u-joints the same for a D44 3/4 ton and 1/2 ton?
I have a 14 bolt ff and am looking for a D44 8 lug to go with it.
I already have a D44 up front.
If the internals are the same, wouldn't it be cheaper to just swap the knuckles out?
Thanx
See ya


my truck's not dirty, it's earth tone paint
 
Yep, the differential, ring and pinion, axleshafts, calipers, and locking hubs are all the same between a 6-lug or 8-lug Dana 44. The only difference is the 8-lug hub and rotor, backing plates (caliper supports), and sometimes the spindle.
 
Keep in mind the first gen Dana44s had the smaller steering ujoint axels in them. I don't remember the Ujoint # but it is not the 5-297x that the 73 and up axels have. And yes you can just swap out the smaller Ujointed axles for the larger ones....

72K5
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The difference between your current 10 bolt and a 44 are only in the differential size, the outers are the same parts (really, the same part numbers). The 44 Differential is a "little" larger. I have a 10 bolt in the front of mine and have switched it to 8 lug to match my 14 bolt FF, and am holding out till I can find and afford a 60. If you want bulletproof get the one with the biggest axles and axle U-joints. Oh and I'm a Jeeper too...so :P :)

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