Dana 60F U-joint choices

[BoondocK5]

All you guys that do this stuff way more than I do, let’s hear about them 1480 series U-joints

I know CTM’s are the shit!
Not sure I need those, truck will see mostly street driving.
But, it is spooled on both ends, Dana 60F with 35 spline innies and outies, will need joints in it.
42” swampers, way more horsies than I should probably be allowed to have, and 5.38/1 gears. Did I mention it has a doubler too, and full hydraulic steering?

Anywho, I don’t think a set of CTM’s should be mandatory at this point.
Will a set of solid spicers work for a long while as long as I don’t go climbing over cars and being all ferocious with the stupid pedal?
Guys that wheel a lot chime in please

 

[imiceman44]

All you guys that do this stuff way more than I do, let’s hear about them 1480 series U-joints

I know CTM’s are the shit!
Not sure I need those, truck will see mostly street driving.
But, it is spooled on both ends, Dana 60F with 35 spline innies and outies, will need joints in it.
42” swampers, way more horsies than I should probably be allowed to have, and 5.38/1 gears. Did I mention it has a doubler too, and full hydraulic steering?

Anywho, I don’t think a set of CTM’s should be mandatory at this point.
Will a set of solid spicers work for a long while as long as I don’t go climbing over cars and being all ferocious with the stupid pedal?
Guys that wheel a lot chime in please

I will say this then go to my corner.
If you want to wheel it just put RCP shafts

 

[BoondocK5]

I will say this then go to my corner.
If you want to wheel it just put RCP shafts

Not gonna lay down $2500 for new shafts. Even with all the cool parts, I’m still not that much in the entire front axle, yet.
For a truck that’s probably only going to see off-road, realistically, once a month.
And maybe do 45 miles a week on pavement.
That’s as close to realistic as it’ll get.
So, maybe I keep my grease-able 1480 joints, grease them once month or whenever I’m headed off-road. And try not to be “me” when out on dirt/rocks.

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

I will say this then go to my corner.
If you want to wheel it just put RCP shafts

RCP? did you mean RCV?

 

[Babaganoosh]

Why not just run what you got and replace it when it busts?

I’m still running I believe 1991 front u joints in my 10bolt

 

[sweetk30]

Non neck down spicer stock shafts and spicer life series non greaseable u-joints .

 

[imiceman44]

RCP? did you mean RCV?

I don't know why I said rcp, yes rcv

 

[obijuank5]

You’re at the point of breaking stock ujoints and the needle-less joints being overkill. You just have to pick no maintenance and kinda strong over lots of maintenance and super strong.
If it sees 4x4 road time, the super joint is not for you.

 

[nvrenuf]

@BoondocK5 the non greaseable solid joints are typically viewed as stronger than the greaseable type.

 

[rderosier]

All you guys that do this stuff way more than I do, let’s hear about them 1480 series U-joints

I know CTM’s are the shit!
Not sure I need those, truck will see mostly street driving.
But, it is spooled on both ends, Dana 60F with 35 spline innies and outies, will need joints in it.
42” swampers, way more horsies than I should probably be allowed to have, and 5.38/1 gears. Did I mention it has a doubler too, and full hydraulic steering?

Anywho, I don’t think a set of CTM’s should be mandatory at this point.
Will a set of solid spicers work for a long while as long as I don’t go climbing over cars and being all ferocious with the stupid pedal?
Guys that wheel a lot chime in please

I did a bunch of reading on this subject when I broke my stub shaft and ended up with Yukon super joints, felt like the best bang for the buck from what I was reading. But of course you gotta maintenance every 300 miles or whatever - but most in this conversation need that. They're holding up fine but the stub shaft gave before the spicers did before I swapped them.

 

[BoondocK5]

Wow!
I was snooping around on Amazon 3rd page back.
Found the deal of a lifetime.
I just bought last set bargain basement priced SPL55-5C-1480, non-greaseable, with C-clips
2 each $49.95 shipped, be here tomorrow.

 

[obijuank5]

What is the 5c designation?

 

[mrk5]

I have always had Spicer Lifetime joints. Same set since about 2011. Just this year at Blazer Bash I broke a Yukon 4340 shaft that was installed with the Spicer joints. The u-joint was fine so that's what I'm still running.

Edit to add my are nongreasable.

 

[K85 Octane]

Yukon so long as you aren't running lots of 4x4 miles. Like others said already, needle-less is the strongest. Do you need that for "mostly street" driving? No cause thats 2wd, don't need axle shafts for that but if its 4x4 street driving I would go needles.

I like this grease:

 

[BoondocK5]

What is the 5c designation?

Don’t know it specifically said it fit dodge w350 w 35 splines, which is what the axle came out of.

 

[imiceman44]

Wow!
I was snooping around on Amazon 3rd page back.
Found the deal of a lifetime.
I just bought last set bargain basement priced SPL55-5C-1480, non-greaseable, with C-clips
2 each $49.95 shipped, be here tomorrow.

I had a similar experience napa was clearing all the spicer ujoints so I bought the d60, d44 and the 1350 joints they had at $25 a piece.
That was 12 years ago though.
They're still on the shelf

 

[BoondocK5]

$49.95+tax, free overnight shipping and yes they are the real deal.
WIN!

 

[BoondocK5]

And here they are all installed on the brand new 1.5” 35 spline outers

 

[onetonbb74]

Good choice!

 

[Fastereddie]

Sorry but those sure look like chinese knockoffs. Every genuine Spicer joint I have has spl or spr on the cross and also markings on the caps. Also the porosity of the material doesn’t look even close.