schmuck1124
Registered Member
Looking for disc brake brackets - bolt on. Homey from GreatLakeOffroad does not answer phone or e-mail..anyone know anywhere else to find?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Dana 70 disc brakes
- Thread starter schmuck1124
- Start date
What kind of D70?
I need some too for a dually d70
camiswelding
1/2 ton status
great lakes off road is the place for the cheapest brackets... they are busy,,, pm him from here or pirate,,, he answered me in a couple of days,,, or go to their website
blackbirds custom trucks in washington has a whole kit but its more spendy
( I had one and they are about 500 with rotors)
kert at diy 4 x 4 has a kit as well I believe
support ck5ers
cam
blackbirds custom trucks in washington has a whole kit but its more spendy
( I had one and they are about 500 with rotors)
kert at diy 4 x 4 has a kit as well I believe
support ck5ers
cam
Here is the thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279917
Here is my post about taking common & cheap D60 disc brake brackets & making them work on a D70:
Dana 60 rear discs TO Dana 70 rear discs
I could have used some advice on this last week. I completed a swap of my existing D60 rear disc setup to a D70-U rear axle. Here's my story:
Around last Christmas, I installed rear discs on my '78 rear Ford D60, using ebay brackets, Chevy truck rotors, calipers, pads, etc, with brake hoses from the front of a '76 Dodge 1/2 ton 4x4. I recently picked up a Dana 70-U model out of an '85 F-350. The backing plates are the same distance apart. The spring perches are the same, yada, yada. After taking out the 3.54’s and putting 4.10’s in it, I figured I was home free. I was thinking, "OK, the disc brake swap will be a bolt on." Wrong.
The 70 uses 9/16" wheel studs, the 60 uses 1/2" studs...this does not cause any problems.
The hubs on the 70 are quite a bit larger than the ones on the 60. The Chevy rotors would not seat themselves on the rear of the 70 hubs. With much grinding from a cheap $6 electric grinder, I had one of them ground down enough so the rotor would mount flush on the rear. The $6 grinder had served me well over the past year, but the bearing was going bad. I picked up a Milwaukee grinder for $105, and let me say it’s like comparing Schwartzanegger to David Spade……anyway.
When I went to bolt everything on, I found that due to the hub being larger on the 70, there was no way to get the inner brake pad between the caliper and the bracket….as is required for the system to function. I took some measurements and found that if I cut a large chunk out of my disc bracket, I could mount it BEHIND the backing plate/axle flange (whatever the proper term is) on the axle, instead of on the outside, like it was with the 60. The bracket is now retained with 3 grade-8 bolts instead of 4, but I don’t think it’s going anywhere. After this was complete, the rotor was too far away from the caliper to function properly. After much swearing, I remembered that I kept the well worn front D60 rotors, after I replaced them last winter. I grabbed on of them, and found the “hat” on the 60 rotor is deeper than the Chevy ¾ ton rotor. Knowing that this was my last change to get it to work without starting all over, I drove out the studs, installed the front D60 rotor on the rear 70 spindle, put everything together, and discovered that everything works as planned. Wahoo!!
The key ingredients to making an existing rear 60 disc setup work on a 70 U can be summed up quickly:
1. Grind the ‘8 lumps’ and the base of the rear 70 hub.
2. Buy ’79 F-350 rotors (many other years probably work, but I know these do).
3. Cut away part of the 60 disc bracket to allow it to mount BEHIND the axle flange, rather than in front of it.
4. Use the Chevy calipers, pads, bolts, etc.
Brag to others, “My rear end is beefier than yours, and it is also smoother than yours…..and it has discs.”
Roy
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279917
Here is my post about taking common & cheap D60 disc brake brackets & making them work on a D70:
Dana 60 rear discs TO Dana 70 rear discs
I could have used some advice on this last week. I completed a swap of my existing D60 rear disc setup to a D70-U rear axle. Here's my story:
Around last Christmas, I installed rear discs on my '78 rear Ford D60, using ebay brackets, Chevy truck rotors, calipers, pads, etc, with brake hoses from the front of a '76 Dodge 1/2 ton 4x4. I recently picked up a Dana 70-U model out of an '85 F-350. The backing plates are the same distance apart. The spring perches are the same, yada, yada. After taking out the 3.54’s and putting 4.10’s in it, I figured I was home free. I was thinking, "OK, the disc brake swap will be a bolt on." Wrong.
The 70 uses 9/16" wheel studs, the 60 uses 1/2" studs...this does not cause any problems.
The hubs on the 70 are quite a bit larger than the ones on the 60. The Chevy rotors would not seat themselves on the rear of the 70 hubs. With much grinding from a cheap $6 electric grinder, I had one of them ground down enough so the rotor would mount flush on the rear. The $6 grinder had served me well over the past year, but the bearing was going bad. I picked up a Milwaukee grinder for $105, and let me say it’s like comparing Schwartzanegger to David Spade……anyway.
When I went to bolt everything on, I found that due to the hub being larger on the 70, there was no way to get the inner brake pad between the caliper and the bracket….as is required for the system to function. I took some measurements and found that if I cut a large chunk out of my disc bracket, I could mount it BEHIND the backing plate/axle flange (whatever the proper term is) on the axle, instead of on the outside, like it was with the 60. The bracket is now retained with 3 grade-8 bolts instead of 4, but I don’t think it’s going anywhere. After this was complete, the rotor was too far away from the caliper to function properly. After much swearing, I remembered that I kept the well worn front D60 rotors, after I replaced them last winter. I grabbed on of them, and found the “hat” on the 60 rotor is deeper than the Chevy ¾ ton rotor. Knowing that this was my last change to get it to work without starting all over, I drove out the studs, installed the front D60 rotor on the rear 70 spindle, put everything together, and discovered that everything works as planned. Wahoo!!
The key ingredients to making an existing rear 60 disc setup work on a 70 U can be summed up quickly:
1. Grind the ‘8 lumps’ and the base of the rear 70 hub.
2. Buy ’79 F-350 rotors (many other years probably work, but I know these do).
3. Cut away part of the 60 disc bracket to allow it to mount BEHIND the axle flange, rather than in front of it.
4. Use the Chevy calipers, pads, bolts, etc.
Brag to others, “My rear end is beefier than yours, and it is also smoother than yours…..and it has discs.”
Roy
schmuck1124
Registered Member
It is a 70B from a 1979-80ish F350...
