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Dash and park lights not working

75k5newbie

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Needing some help. I have a 1976 blazer. The instrument panel lights, park lights, and tail lights are not working. I replaced the headlight switch. I have 12v at the orange wire coming into the switch. But, I don’t have power coming back out of the switch to the green (instrument panel) or brown (park lights). That’s why I replaced the switch. I just ran a hot wire from the fuse box and jumped it to the orange wire. Now the lights work. Why? If the orange wire already has 12v why does it make the lights work if I run a separate hot wire to the orange wire. I checked continuity from the from the fuse box end to the light switch end of the orange wire and it is good. Any help is appreciated.
 
check the orange wire with the switch on. A bad or high resistance connection in that circuit, might show voltage until there is a load placed on it. A test light can help find these weak circuits.
 
Ok. You are correct. As soon as I switch the lights on, the voltage drops. I traced one of the orange wires all the way back to fuse panel and don’t see any obvious issues. Even removed the fuse panel so I see exactly where it goes into the back of the panel. I touched one end of my volt meter to that corresponding fuse connector and checked the other end where the orange wire enters the connector to the light switch. I have continuity. I traced the other orange wire into a loom that runs along the top of the dash towards the passenger side. Any idea what I should do next to find the problem?
 
The headlamp power is always hot. So it has a direct connection to the battery. I haven't looked at the schematic in bit, so general locations here.
Fuse links, 1 or 2 at starter and possibly 1 at firewall bus bar. Give them a look. If they appear to be melted pull on them if they stretch there bad. If the fuse links are good, make sure you have good clean, tight connection at the bus bar on firewall. From there it goes through the bulkhead connector, which can be corroded or loose spades. There is 3/8 head screw in the middle loosen this(should not come out of block) grab and wiggle. Will be full of old hard goop, this NKY-77 compound, pick it out wire brush terminals, make sure the female are tight. These are Packard type 56, and can be removed from block when you need to make new circuits. Put some new NKY-77 compound and reassemble.
Some power to light switch also goes through the ignition switch, this is for turn signals.

vague memory, the horn should be on same power feed as head lamps. Also these trucks have ground issues at the lamps themselves, always good to clean those up and repair any iffy terminals. Head lamps parking lamps.
 
I isolated the issue. The problem is where the orange wire to the light switch exists the fuse panel. I ran a wire directly from the hot side of the fuse to the switch and everything worked. I removed the wire and put a good fuse back in the panel and it work for a few seconds, then stopped. I put pressure on the fuse and it works. I going to remove the clip on the side of the fuse that attaches to the orange wire. I’ll get it cleaned up and see where that leads me. Appreciate all the help.
 
Hi there. I'm experiencing issues with my running lights, parking lights, and dash lights not turning on. I've checked the fuses ( kick panel) and they appear fine. Does anyone know which fuse in the fuse box under the hood powers these lights?Thank you!
 
Yeah. Definitely the whole circuit. lights, tail, front and side markers and the license light, dash lights are out. Everything that the Tail 15a fuse says its powering, is out yet it shows no blown fuse. I actually swapped out with new fuse. This is sorta like the spark plug wire I guess..!..Hopefully something simple..Thanks..
 
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Yeah. Definitely the whole circuit. Thorpe park tickets lights, tail, front and side markers and the license light, dash lights are out. Everything that the Tail 15a fuse says its powering, is out yet it shows no blown fuse. I actually swapped out with new fuse. This is sorta like the spark plug wire I guess..!..Hopefully something simple..Thanks..
Did you check the fusible link?
 
There 2 or 3 fuse links. 2 at the starter, and one possibly at the juction block on fire wall. If any wire in these areas look melty they are probably bad. Pull on it, if it stretches its bad. Not a normal fuse, more link a wire.
Have checked the fuse for 12v, either a multimeter or test light?
 
Yes. Certainly the entire circuit. The license light, dash lights, front and side markers, tail lights, and Thorpe Park tickets are all gone. The Tail 15a fuse indicates that everything is powering, but it does not display a blown fuse. Actually, I replaced the fuse with a new one. I suppose this is similar to the spark plug wire.I hope it's something easy.Thank you.
 
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Just be cuase the fuse is good doesn't mean there is power to that circuit. There is a second type fuse between the battery and the fuse block under the dash. Tjis is the fuse link mentioned above in previous post.
 
Not sure this gentleman is English as first language, but I know nothing for certain.
 
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