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Dash Cluster Options

On another positive note, check this out.

Works with my PF4!

The BIM-01-2-EDBK is designed to read the engine information from the Pro-Flo 4 EFI kits. The BIM-01-2-EDBK module is connected to the Edelbrock device through the dedicated DB9 CAN connection plug on the main harness.

The BIM-01-2-EDBK will collect and output the following information to Dakota Digital Instrument Systems:

  • Tachometer
  • Water Temperature
  • Intake Air Temperature
  • Fuel Pressure
  • A/F Ratio
  • MAP
  • Boost (when applicable)

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1183/mode=prod/prd1183.htm
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I run the normal BIM module. I constantly keep tabs on trans temp. 4l80's need big coolers. Learned that almost the hard way on a run to Denver from GJ.


On another positive note, check this out.

Works with my PF4!

The BIM-01-2-EDBK is designed to read the engine information from the Pro-Flo 4 EFI kits. The BIM-01-2-EDBK module is connected to the Edelbrock device through the dedicated DB9 CAN connection plug on the main harness.

The BIM-01-2-EDBK will collect and output the following information to Dakota Digital Instrument Systems:

  • Tachometer
  • Water Temperature
  • Intake Air Temperature
  • Fuel Pressure
  • A/F Ratio
  • MAP
  • Boost (when applicable)

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1183/mode=prod/prd1183.htm
 
Yep, I have the regular bim for obd2 and the wide band module.
 
Finally got the cluster installed and I have to say I am impressed with how it works, how it looks, and how easy it was to hook up especially with the bus module. Just had to wire up the oil pressure and speedo to the cluster. Also reads a few other things like A/F ratio, intake temp, vacuum/boost, in the bottom right.

If money is no concern, I'd opt for the more expensive Dakota cluster since it can display more things on the dash at once and allows more lighting options.

Still need to install the bezel and a new BT stereo along with calibrating the speedometer.

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I also have the Dakota Digital VHX. A bit over 3 years now. I really like it. I called and asked if they could do a 4,000 tach since I have a diesel. It took a few extra weeks, but they did.

What did you use for the tach input?
 
I have a 90 K5 and cant find a dash bezel that screws in due to the upper right screw about the din mount radio. Does anyone know who has one that fits?
 
I have a 90 K5 and cant find a dash bezel that screws in due to the upper right screw about the din mount radio. Does anyone know who has one that fits?
You need one from a '90-91 as they were the only ones with the big opening for the radio.

Unfortunately, they are not reproduced right now. I have been collecting parts for an eventual a/c swap and need the correct bezel with the a/c vents. Only thing I could do is find one in a boneyard. I got lucky and found a darn near mint one.
 
I have been pondering deleting the entire square body dash and going with say an 06 dash. That way the a/c duct work is actually worth a shit and the in theory most of the oem harness could be used to run the dash - a/c - LQ4 etc. If anyone has any leads on this post up.
 
I have been pondering deleting the entire square body dash and going with say an 06 dash. That way the a/c duct work is actually worth a shit and the in theory most of the oem harness could be used to run the dash - a/c - LQ4 etc. If anyone has any leads on this post up.
Good luck with that. I get wanting better duct flow and controls but unless you like electronics and staring at wiring diagrams I would not want to do it. The complexity compared to a squarebody is stupid. Hvac module is on serial communication network as is the cluster and everything else in a '06 truck. The hvac case is massive compared to a squarebody and won't fit without modification. Once you do get it in, you get to deal with door actuators that are known for failure over time.

I've seen one done on a body swapped Blazer on a shortened 3/4 ton Duramax chassis. They pulled everything from the truck that they pulled the chassis and drivetrain from.

To me it's not worth the BS to go through the change over.
 
As much as I tried to keep it simple and cheap, I wanted that original square body dash look. If I was doing an all metal DIY4x dash, then that would be a different story. The Dakota is not a cheap option but does a lot with less wires especially when you are using an aftermarket EFI. I'm glad I went this route to keep things simple and for an easy install.

The newer GM truck stuff would be a tough install for me. I just don't have the time and patience with everything else going on. If you had an LS or Duramax setup using the GM PCM to drive the gauges, it might be worth looking into but I'm not sure how it would look in the square body dash.
 
I have autometers on my k5 and yea they where a bit expensive, but man they are sick they have 3 diffrent style gauges that can be swapped out with different colors to pick from. also they have a port to add diffrent styles when new ones come out. the wiring isn't bad at all. I wired them in about an hour or two and a couple of brewskis.
 
I have autometers on my k5 and yea they where a bit expensive, but man they are sick they have 3 diffrent style gauges that can be swapped out with different colors to pick from. also they have a port to add diffrent styles when new ones come out. the wiring isn't bad at all. I wired them in about an hour or two and a couple of brewskis.

That was my plan a long time ago but I personally like them recessed a little like factory. The angle is off a little.

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I'll try to snap a pic of my gauges in the 3 styles it has. one thing to note on the gauges the bezel doesn't have the slot for the stereo deck.
 
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