What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

dash gauges stop working because fuse pops

i already told you from the beginning, when the fues blows, the alternator is not getting a signal fromthe gauges to start charging, it essentially shuts off, the longer you run the motor on just the battery, it will kill it.

and wow, you mentioned too the items on that circuit that i told you about as well, those wires are located BEHIND the motor, on the top, and i'm almost positive now, you have one worn through and shorting when you move the motor just right either with the gas pedad, or you hit a big enough bump.
 
Well it goes dead without me runnng it at all. I put fuse in it, then jumped it and ran it for little bit till fuse poped. After 1 day of sitting battery is so dead nothing at all comes on....while I never ran it after it charged for 15 mins running. With fuse. Fuse poped then I shut it down. Go to fire it up a day later with new fuse and dead as a door nail.....I checked wires best I could I ddi not see anything and fuse did not pop. Now when I drove it it last in a parking lot across the street fom my house I hit the gas hard and it wanted to cut out.....could the whole problem be the idle air control?
 
By now, you have run the battery dead so many times its probably not in the best of shape. Might not be able to hold a charge.
Even if it were brand new, 15 minutes of running are not enough to build up much of a charge.
 
4xcrazy said:
yup, could be the back-up light bulb in the passenger side housing not working either...
Click to expand...
Driver's side.
Passenger's side would cause the battery to overcharge, not go dead.
 
ok guy idk if this will help but...i was jumping the blazer and i walked around to start it and i looked at the dash...it was on! no key in the ignition at all. but when i moved truck just a little when i was going to get in they went off and can back on???? what the hell is wrong? i know its a short has anyone had this issue too????
 
OK i found a bare wire under brake booster...pink with black strip. i will see if there are any others but does anyone know where i could get a wiring harness for engine of my truck thanks.....Matt
 
Well found bare wire on fire wall pink with black stripe...fix and seemed fine....went out the lights are off but speedo is pegged and battery is dead again.....any other ideas??? Please help me with this last issue....
 
'90 V2500 gage/idle

I don't mean to resurrect an old thread but I wanted to contribute my experience with this issue.

My gage/idle fuse was blowing immediately when I would turn the key on. I took the cluster and dash out and checked every wire in the car. I found the grounded wire to be in the bundle that runs from the passenger side of the car, behind the engine, over to the driver-side and through the fire wall. I was able to locate this by unplugging EVERY plug/sensor on the car. Then one by one I would plug them in, turn the key, and check the fuse. After I located the bad harness I was able to see the plastic split loom had deteriorated and was not protecting the wires.

I am now in the process of trying to gain 100% access to the wires so I can bundle them properly and prevent future issues. Anyone have any tricks for this? Seems to be in the absolute worst place possible.

I hope others find this useful. I am very appreciative of all the posts on this issue already, it helped me find my short.
 
Well this may not be of any help but I replaced all of that old split loom when I had the engine out several months back. Made it WAY easier to be able to stand in there and made everything easy to get to, and separate everything out.
 
U-711ipmc said:
Well this may not be of any help but I replaced all of that old split loom when I had the engine out several months back. Made it WAY easier to be able to stand in there and made everything easy to get to, and separate everything out.
Click to expand...

:doah: I was afraid of that.
 
Just wondering if this problem ever got resolved?

I just had the same problem....built a little tester with parts from Oreillys and found the short right under the brake booster. My wire covers has all been removed by PO and the wires were rubbing on the shift linkage. Replaced all of the wire covers in the engine bay, repaired the chaffed wires and back in the road! Thanks for all of the great knowledge, this forum is priceless:)
 
Actually...I thought I had the problem fixed. I re-loomed all the wires behind the engine and about 6 miles into my test drive the fuse popped again. I am very frustrated.

I would love to know what tool you used to find your short. It might help me out.
 
Don't know what he used, but I got my suspicions.
Your problem is that you don't have a short, you have an intermittent short. One of the hardest to find.
They make special tools that will help, but the best thing for your case is a test light in series.
You need to replace the fuse with a small 12 volt bulb. When you power everything up, the bulb will barely light if at all.
When the short hits, it will light up bright.

Find a bulb and socket with two wires instead of one wire and the case being ground.
Pull out the blown fuse, stick one wire under each end and put the fuse back in. Be very sure that you do not short across the fuse.

They make adapters that let you attach spade terminals to fuses, and they make it a lot easier.

Then start moving, wiggling and pulling on wires until the light gets bright.
Then just move less and less until you narrow down where it is.
 
Ahhh, just to be clear, you want to use a blown fuse when you put in the bulb.......
 
I used an 1156 bulb, bought a 1156 socket, spade terminals for the fuse panel, jumper wires with alligator clips( get long ones so you can position the light where it is visible from under the hood ). Cost me about 8 bucks and was worth ten times that!

This led me straight to the problem and fixed it in no time, been running great ever since!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom