Dash Instruments Issues

[Senorx470]

Some of you might have read my epic horn thread when I was trying to get my K5 passed inspection, so you know I'm learning as I go along. Now that the horn issue has been solved, I'm on to the next priority issue.

I finally had a chance to take the K5 out for a drive around town to run a couple of errands today. I noticed the speedometer needle bounces all over the place during acceleration and deceleration. Once it gets at cruising speed it stays steady. The Temperature and Battery gauge never budged once, so I'm thinking they are not functional. I filled the gas tank and it only reads a tad bit over 1/4 full. Where do I begin to trouble shoot? Should I just bite the bullet and purchase a whole new dash cluster?

On a good note, the instrument cluster lights up when the head lamps are on. I'd like them brighter and I seem to remember reading about upgrading the bulbs to make them brighter. I think I bookmarked the thread somewhere, so I'll research that.

Other issues that I became aware of on this trip is an exhaust leak somewhere. I had the windows down and I became dizzy with the fumes at stop lights.

Horn thread if interested: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=313086

 

[A1971Blazer]

On the speedo cable, it probably needs lubed.
Pull it out, pull the inner cable out of the outer shield and clean it good the get some powdered graphite lubricant and lube all over it as you put it back inside the cable.
If that don't fix it, you need a new cable or speedo?
The inner cable looks like a super long spring. What happens is, when it's sticky it will "twist" up or kinda "wind" up.
Then, when it gets enough tension it will release and the needle will jump.

Check the connector on the back of the cluster, it will corrode and lose contact....steel wool or scotchbrite back to a nice copper color....do that FIRST.......then check grounds.

 

[Senorx470]

Speedo

Do I have to pull the cluster to remove the speedo cable?

Is it just one connector to the instrument cluster in the back?

I'll look at my manual when I get home tonight.

This will turn into an epic instrument cluster thread. LOL.

 

[ekajkrats]

The "battery gauge" on these is usually an ammeter, and is often disconnected from the system when alternator's are upgraded, or to avoid other problems, such as an electrical fire. My basic understanding of it is that for it to work, the alternator would have to run through the ammeter and then to the battery, meaning that full current would go through your dash and a newer alternator might have too much for the old ammeter. If you, or the P.O. swapped in a voltmeter that might be a much more useful reading for you.

 

[ashman]

Do I have to pull the cluster to remove the speedo cable?

No. Just reach up behind the speedometer and you'll feel the big cable going into the back of it. It has a collar that holds it on. Should be able to unscrew the collar fairly easily and just pull the cable out. easy, peasy.

 

[diesel4me]

The Amp gauge on my '72 K5 never worked for years and I always assumed the gauge was bad--but one day I was reading a Chilton's wiring diagram book at a library and noticed there is two fuses in the harness (glass ones!) that supposedly protect the amp meter..they are located near on the front corners of the radiator support,one near the battery,the other on the drivers side--they are in rubber bullet looking "plugs" that look like the connector on the license plate wiring harness,you would never think fuses are inside them,they look like a plug type connection..

When I found them on my Blazer and popped them open,the fuses were broken and all gangrene--I cut those original fuse holders out and put new ones in and the gauge started working again!..

I had a few complete dash clusters for that truck,but I sold one to a friend for his '69 C-10 last year--I still have some gauges and parts from the rest he didn't want--if you get in a bind let me know..

 

[Senorx470]

Diesel4me > Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know.

A1971Blazer > What brand lubricant would you recommend for the speedo? Anything I can pick up at Napa or Autozone? Thanks.

 

[A1971Blazer]

Diesel4me > Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know.

A1971Blazer > What brand lubricant would you recommend for the speedo? Anything I can pick up at Napa or Autozone? Thanks.

any of the auto parts stores should have it.......just ask for powdered graphite.....it usually comes in a small tube.

 

[Rugger187]

As for the fuel gauge, it could be the sender or the float is stuck on the baffles. Either way you will have to drop the tank or cut a hole in your floor. I cut a hole in my floor and built an access panel. I can change my fuel pump in less than an hour now.

 

[bp71k5]

The gauges are probably not bad, but the fuel and temp sender wires are probably broken or came off.

The exhaust is just one of those convertible things you either get used to or rebuild the exhaust so it exits out the rear side of the vehicle at an angle. Pipes going straight out the back are the worst.

 

[sponsoredbydad]

Yes exhaust behind the rear wheels and out to the sides.

 

[Senorx470]

Funny thing is I have the top on and the pipes do exit behind the rear tires to the sides. The rear window is missing so that may have played a roll in it, but I just can't see myself driving around or have my family in the vehicle with the current exhaust situation. I literally became nauseous and dizzy with the fumes at a stop light.

 

[bp71k5]

Yep, windows down makes it worse. Only solution is to drive backwards really fast with the top unbolted and then go on your way never to return to the top again.

 

[ashman]

Yeah, it's way better with the top off. With it on and the back window up it sucks in fumes no matter what I do. I hate that.

I wonder if one of those wings they used to put on the back of suburbans and vans to keep the rear window clean would help...