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Data log

4X4HIGH

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So can someone look at my data log and tell me what they think of it?

Time to go figure out why my knock sensor isn't working. I did experience some pinging near WOT and it did not show up on the data log.
 

Attachments

  • 20090405_133059_BLM.txt
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  • 20090405_133108_INT.txt
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  • 20090405_133126_O2.txt
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  • 20090405_133134_KNOCK.txt
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Not sure on the knock sensor. I little pinging won't hurt but when it turns to a knock that is bad. Your readings are all at 0 for knock counter...

Your voltage is a little low by about 1 volt. Most data I see is running 14.1, 14.2 at anything higher than idle. Closer to 13.2 at idle. Yours went as low as 11.7 at idle and like 13.2 at higher RPM. Look at the very last of the data and you can see 12.8 at idle. It takes 12 volts to operate the relays. Also in the last bit of data the temp goes to 197.6 after idling for awhile after all the driving is around 190.

I can't see anything wrong with the LOG.txt you e-mailed me. All looks well.

BLM data also looks good. 128 is supposed to be perfect and lower is richer. This can also depend on whether. A high humidity day will show a little richer. You do have some 106 BLM at WOT which could be a little rich and causing the ping? But better to be a little rich than a little lean...

I can't see anything wrong, looks pretty good actually. I could burn a chip with some corrections but doubt you would notice them. Is it a stock chip and engine to start?

The ESC I believe received a signal from the knock sensor and retards the timing via the EST.
 
This engine is actually a pretty hot 350 build i did last year and the chip was done by Brian @ TBIchips. I'll have to double check on the alternator readings as the last time i checked recently i was at 14.7 at the alternator lug and 14.5 at the batteries. I did however just replace the driverside exhaust gasket and i did have part of the alternator wiring off while i did this work.

I know that the knock log showed zero in all spaces even though i know for a fact i did get some detonation on one of my higher RPM runs and i checked that the wire was still connected (which it was) so tomorrow i'm going to look further into the wire itself then if i don't find anything there i'll replace the knock sensor. I know that it was working the last time i logged info so i'll just have to check into it like i said.

Also about the temp reading, it was pretty hot here today and i would suspect that is why the reading went up when i was idling.
 
I think the chip is pretty close, might be a little rich on the higher load cells but not anything serious.

You need to get a wide band O2 hooked up and go for a wide open run and see what that reads. I'm betting it's a little on the rich side, you MIGHT be able to lean it out and pick up some power. But I wouldn't do anymore tuning until you get some wide band numbers though.

Are you having any drivability problems? I don't see anything in the logs that would indicate anything is wrong.


What kind of air cleaner are you using? Hopefully a stock type snorkel.
 
Just on the way out the door here, but have you tried tapping the block while it's running (with a hammer) and checked to see if that is detected?

Knock sensors aren't fool proof, sometimes they are working right, but simply don't detect the specific knock that is occurring.
 
I don't have any driveability issues really unless you consider the falter around 5200rpm a problem (i do but i'm rarely at that RPM unless i'm goofing around). :D

I run a stock snorkel housing with a K & N filter and i still have the hose to the radiator support (need to keep the air cool as possible).

Dorian, i actually found out some useful info today about the knock sensor wire. When i swapped my engine i must have accidently cut the wire in half so i trimmed the bad stuff away and added a small piece of wire along with a new terminal end and found out that's a no no since knock sensor wire is shielded wire and you cannot use just any old wire. I'm not sure how true this is but my guy at our parts store told me this and he is RARELY wrong about stuff like this. I will test my knock sensor before doing anything else though.

The good thing is that my buddy put the blazer on the smog dyno today to see where my numbers where and he said the HC's and the CO's were really low (good thing since i was worried about those) but the Nox was high and he said it would have failed because of the Nox so now i need to check EGR functionality and then i'm probably going to replace the 7 year old CAT and i should be good.
 
why does the air cleaner assembly matter so much?

An engine will always run better with cooler air than hot air. Lots of people run an aftermarket open element air cleaner thinking that the extra air flow is going to help when in fact the hot air it is sucking in is actually hurting performance even though it might flow much more air than the factory set-up.
 
ok thats what i figured, didnt know it really made that much of a difference though, i guess i've always been a bit of a skeptic.
 
Dorian, i actually found out some useful info today about the knock sensor wire. When i swapped my engine i must have accidently cut the wire in half so i trimmed the bad stuff away and added a small piece of wire along with a new terminal end and found out that's a no no since knock sensor wire is shielded wire and you cannot use just any old wire. I'm not sure how true this is but my guy at our parts store told me this and he is RARELY wrong about stuff like this. I will test my knock sensor before doing anything else though

The knock sensor uses a standard wire so splicing isn't a problem. It's mainly the Japanese use shielded knock sensor and sometimes oxygen sensor wires.

The good thing is that my buddy put the blazer on the smog dyno today to see where my numbers where and he said the HC's and the CO's were really low (good thing since i was worried about those) but the Nox was high and he said it would have failed because of the Nox so now i need to check EGR functionality and then i'm probably going to replace the 7 year old CAT and i should be good.

If it doesn't pass NOx even with a fully functional cat and EGR then you'll need to back the timing down and/or run some GM top engine cleaner to help get the peak cylinder pressure down enough to get the NOx back in line.
 
An engine will always run better with cooler air than hot air. Lots of people run an aftermarket open element air cleaner thinking that the extra air flow is going to help when in fact the hot air it is sucking in is actually hurting performance even though it might flow much more air than the factory set-up.
There's a little more to that with the TBI as it does better with more of a direct air from the front then an all around flow.
 
Actually it would apply even to carbs, as it's no different than heads, or valves, etc. Air needs to move in an efficient manner...swirling around without direction hurts flow. This is one of the reasons the "salad bowl" for TBI would seem to make such a positive difference.
 
Mark or anyone else that is knowledgeable on reading these logs, can you take a look at this log and tell me what you see and think of it. This is with a new chip that Brian burned for me that is supposed to allow for more EGR opening (don't know how you make one open any less or more) i don't know if he changed any other info in the chip and when i ask him he said he don't remember. :crazy:
 

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  • 20090410_213013_LOG.txt
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  • 20090410_213414_BLM.txt
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  • 20090410_213420_INT.txt
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  • 20090410_213425_O2.txt
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Log is kind of short to compare with the other one but still looks good. Rich area has changed to more mid range than higer rpm (low vacuum) voltage is up but tempreture only got to 169?

There are ways to adjust EGR versus load and spark. But don't think it can open more, just more often or longer.

Without the bin file or chip to read there's really no way to tell what he did. But he has a good reputation and yours is the second time I have seen data from his chips. Both were good. HTH
 
Yeah this was just a quick juant around the block a couple times. The temp is low because it is cold outside tonight and i obviously did not drive it for very long. I will log some more tomorrow and for a much longer time so that the temp gets up to a good operating temp. I also still need to install my new knock sensor to see if i can get the knock count to show something. Doesn't the ECM need to "learn" driving habits before it really makes good adjustments once power has been removed from the ECM?
 
It does get better over time. I have noticed better start ups more than anything. Some other guys here may know more on the evact learning curves, I beleive it has to do with the INT. It can only do so much and paremiters have to be set. Your data shows good to go.
 
Ok, i got my knock sensor straightened out (sensor was bad). I will drive around some today since the weather is nice and sunny today and i'll have a new data log posted later today. I seem to have some hesitation just off idle when it's cold (don't know about once it's operating temp) but i'll get some driving time in today and see if that improves.
 
Wasup 4X4HIGH, I'm jealous you've almost got your setup dialed in. Someone above mentioned you need to use a WBO2 to really see whats going on. Let me know if you want to borrow one. I've got two of them one from FAST and another from PLX.

The ping at WOT maybe due to just a little too much advance in that RPM range. A simple check may be to just back the Dist off a couple of degrees and drive it. Then if it seems to help have Brian do a chip with a little less advance at WOT. There's a procedure for setting the initial timing.

It may even go away with a slightly cooler Tstat if it's just a subtle ping. Or just try it when the engine is cool.

Kelvin in Tracy
 
Kelvin, what's up buddy. I'll have to call you soon to talk to you about this wide band 02 sensor. I did have two extra 02 bungs welded into the exhaust system so i could use a WB sensor for tuning purposes. I still have a 408 area number for you, is that still a good number?
 
So what was your data result once you got everything straightened out?

I was on the plane, playing with my tuning laptop, and decided it would be cool to check out my first 8192 baud data log, and see if I could find some issues. Apparently when I got the data cable working though, I didn't bother actually recording any, I was too happy with the pretty numbers changing on the screen. D'oh!
 
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