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DD won't start. New problem

K85 Octane

K85 Octane

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2001 s10

If I'm getting a rapid clicking sound from the start, does that rule out the relay? Or can it still be that?

Need to get it back on the road this weekend, hoping its not the starter but so be it if it is. Blazer is pulling duties now, but it needs bugs fixed too LOL.

New problem

Story.

My gauges have been giving me problems for over a year now. They would stay on with truck off, go haywire, read wrong, etc. I just lived with it cause it wasn't giving me any performance issues. (and gas/temp/oil were reliable) I have a good used set I bought from a member here, just haven't installed yet. :doah:

Replaced battery ~4 months ago
replaced starter (original thread purpose) few weeks ago (test was bad)

All was ok except last week, it wouldn't start. Dead battery. I wound up jump starting it with another battery I had in the garage. Worked fine for a few days. I've been riding in with a coworker, so truck was parked for a couple days. Now it wont start, wont jump start off the battery either. Doesn't want to start with a neighbors truck.

I get rapid clicking from behind the dash, maybe underhood fuse box:dunno:. After trying several times (running higher rpm, multiple tries) the clicking stopped and slowly started. Then died. Tied again and got it running. RPM stable, I pulled away and it wanted to die. Drove to McDonald's and it wanted to die the whole time, but I kept my foot on the pedal. Driving back home (2 blocks) I got it up to 45mph thinking it needed to relearn or clear out:dunno: but it was very sluggish. Pulled up to my parking spot and let off the gas...died almost instantly. Now it wont start and I'm missing out on 50% off junkyard day. :angry1: To make things worse, the blazer needs a new crossmember made up and the front wheel bearings cleaned of all the mud and water.


What the hell is going on? :mad: Please help :bow:
 
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Normally a rapid clicking from the starter is a battery issue. Pull the battery and check the cable connections, clean and tight. Next have the battery tested. With the colder than usual temps we've been having you probably need a new battery. Batteries don't have as much cranking amperage in the cold and engines need more power to start in colder weather.
 
Well, got her done today. Ended up being the starter. I left it alone till this afternoon and it acted the same. I tested the relay by swapping in another from the block. Same thing. Checked my wires, all good and tight. Pulled the started and tested it, failed. :(

As it turns out...
I knew I had a slight leak from the front main already, but at some point between my last oil change and now, it's gotten WAY worse. I was going to do an oil change this weekend anyway, but you never know what might come up last second. I'm glad I was forced to look under it today as I might not have seen it. My oil level, pride set aside, was MIA. After sitting 1.5 days, the dipstick had ~1/8" of oil on it, yes, very bottom. I cringe to think about it.

Not sure what my next step is for this truck. It's topped off with oil, but now I have to watch it carefully. Not interested in pulling the motor. hmmmmm only 128k, 3k on a new trans. Sucks ass
 
Dude. The front main's not that bad. I'd rather have a leaking front main than an oil pan or - god forbid - a rear main.

Been awhile since I played with an S10, but pull shroud, fan, belt(s), and harmonic balancer and you're there. Definitely not worth the risk of running the oil out.
 
The Vortec timing cover needs to be replaced when it is removed. The new one will have a new crank position sensor and a new front seal.
 
does your motor have to come out no an 85, on my 82 i can pull the pan without pulling the motor.
 
Hahaha, when I first read it I thought you said "rapid chicken" sound, and was trying to think of what a rapid chicken sound might sound like lol!!! Hope you get it fixed. Kill it and make some chicken soup out of it lol! :haha:
 
Sounds like the diode trio in the alternator went bad and drained your battery and also that the alternator is no longer charging and is why it wants to die so quickly after having jump started it.
 
hmmm, I tried having the alternator checked a few months back but Kragen said they couldn't cause their computer wasn't showing the performance numbers. WTF? Stupid parts guys. So the only thing I know is about 2 months back I checked the output with my multimeter and it was 14.2v. That's all I know and a lot can happen in two months, but that would explain the poor performance and dying. Now I can't even start it to check with a multimeter again :(

What is the ticking or rapid "chicken" sound? :D
 
K85 Octane said:
hmmm, I tried having the alternator checked a few months back but Kragen said they couldn't cause their computer wasn't showing the performance numbers. WTF? Stupid parts guys. So the only thing I know is about 2 months back I checked the output with my multimeter and it was 14.2v. That's all I know and a lot can happen in two months, but that would explain the poor performance and dying. Now I can't even start it to check with a multimeter again :(

What is the ticking or rapid "chicken" sound? :D
Click to expand...

My guess would be the solenoid (or starter relay if this model uses one) from too low of voltage being applied to it.
 
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