dead diesel

[diesel4me]

Hi everyone! I am a first time poster--and I know this is the garage,and not the diesel board--here is my dilema.I just bought a 1982 gmc stepside with the 6.2 diesel(motor has been changed,might be a 6.5?)and the previous owner has butchered the fuel lines from the tank to the filter,tried adding electric pump,manual tank switchover valve,in other words a real abortion.since the truck is stuck in my yard and its rained nealy everyday since I got it I would like to be able to get it in the garage--can I use a gas can(with diesel fuel of course!) to fire it up and move it?.I think I am going to have to re-plumb the whole fuel systen from the tank to the injection pump.Someone also swapped the primary filter to a newer style with the bleeders,but I think they removed the secondary filter and water sensor asembly,all I see are the wires dangling where it used to go.I dont really care about the dual tanks,one is plenty for the distance i travel--anyone have any advice? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gifI need all my money for parts right now,or i would already be a paid member of the 6.2/6.5 forums.Do I really need 2 filters,or is one (primary)enough?,I could use a small filter like a ford style carburetor one at the electric pump,but I think it would clog to easily(too small)--how would you guys fix this one??. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

 

[tRustyK5]

I'd bungee a 1 gallon jerry can to the inner fender, then run a suction line from the Jerry can through a small inline filter to the lift pump.

Then run the line from the lift pump to the filter on the firewall, and from that filter it should be connected with a steel line to the injector pump.

You'll have to bleed the air out of the lines for it to start though. Remove the glow plugs so the motor spins over easily

Remove the pink wire from the injector pump and spin the motor over until the filter on the firewall is primed. Reconnect the pink wire and crack 4 or more injector lines so they're just a bit loose. Spin it over until you see fuel dripping from the lines you cracked and then tighten them up.

Re-install the glow plugs, let them cycle and it should start and run.

Don't spin the motor more then 20-30 seconds at a time and do let the starter cool down for a minute or two between cranking. Starters for these trucks are expensive and aren't designed for any abuse...

Rene

 

[diesel4me]

Thanks,Rene for reading my post--I have read many of your posts on the diesel board and you seem very knowledgable,and I have learned a lot just by reading the other posts there too. I was thinking of using the electric feul pump as a booster to the mechanical lift pump,to avoid having to crank the engine so long to bleed the lines,couldnt I just run the pump and open the bleeder on the filter,then crack the injectors as you suggested??.The starter may have already sufferred some damage from the previous owner--and he tried ether much to my dismay,and the engine does start right up and dies so I know its probably the nightmare of spliced hoses alowwing air into the fuel line and losing its prime.I also read about the gas cap with the air fitting in it--slick idea,may have to try that one,but i better see how rusty the tank is first!.I'd like to leave the electric pump in line between the tank and factory lift pump but only run it when bleeding lines at filter changes--will it restrict the flow of fuel to the lift pump if its not running?. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gifThank for any advice you can give,its much appreciated. My only other diesel was a vw jetta--at least i could push that one into the garage! (hope I dont have to push the gmc!).

 

[tRustyK5]

Using the electric to prime the filters is cool, but you'll have to crank the motor to prime the other lines after the injector pump. The amount of pressure needed to supply the injector pump isn't very much though...if the system has no air the injector pump itself has enough draw buy itself (although that isn't very good)

Usually if it has air it just won't start...if it starts and dies you may have another problem.

[ QUOTE ]
I have read many of your posts on the diesel board and you seem very knowledgable,

[/ QUOTE ]

No, not really. I have learned a ton from the truly knowledgable in the diesel forum though. I'm still a diesel noob.../forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Hopefully one of the guys that really does know a boatload about diesels will see this and chime in.

Anyways...TTT

Rene

 

[diesel4me]

Thanks for your info!I was going to try to get the truck started but I have 2 concerts to go to tonite and tomorrow(Suzy Bogguss!)and I dont want to take a diesel bath and be covered in soot so I will wait til sunday probably.The reason I want to use the electric pump is to avoid a long cranking time(truck is far from the battery charger)and I would rather not touch the glow plugs since the boob who i got it from used ether---if they break off(with my luck its when,not if!)i will be putting a gas motor back in,i have a 500 caddy motor in the shed and my brother has a 454 rusting under his bench,but i'd rather fix the diesel(easier)but if it is going to be a money pit i will sell it or gas power it--as it stands now the truck needs new batteries,some wiring work to get the glow plugs working(previous owner had starter button for glow plugs,was disconnected when i got it)and many cosmetics but it is good shape bodywise for a new england truck.I'm hoping as you said someone can tell me if the pump can stay in the line and be shut off and not restrict the fuel flow to the lift pump.I am thinking of using copper flex tubing for the fuel lines with only short rubber sections to join them to avoid air leaks,and above all rust--i have to change my tranny lines and brake and fuel lines every 2 years here due to salt corrosion--put copper on my other plow truck--no troubles 5 years later still looks new,but i wouldnt use it for tranny cooler line though.I wish the last guy wasnt such a butcher,i have my work cut out for me!The egr valve is disconnected and the switch on the inj.pump (throttle position )is floating around loose on its 2 screws,dont know if that has any thing to do with it--owner said truck was runnig well as his daily driver after this motor with only 80,000 miles was installed--and it just stalled while driving and he got disgusted with it and sold it to me cheap so i couldnt pass it up--hope i dont live to regret it!I wonder what else it could be if it starts on w-d40 and dies,and it isnt airbound like i thought--hope its not the injector pump--and whoever designed where the incoming fuel line to the inj.pump should be shot--how are you supposed to change the hose and tighten the clamp without removing the intake??Doesnt look like fun /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gifMay have to stop at the package store saturday nite to prepare for the sunday horror show!. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif

 

[tRustyK5]

The fuel lines going to the injector pump should be all steel, mine are. As for getting to them removing the intake is about the only practical way, but at least it's not hard to do.

If you do need injectors or a pump rebuild check these guys out. They're very reasonable.

http://www.accuratediesel.com/

My own pump and injectors are going there on Monday.

Double check the simple stuff first though. Some of the early lift pumps allow the fuel to drainback and consequently allow air into the system. I would isolate the fuel tank and lift pump and lines from the system with a jerry can and an electric pump and see what happens. If it starts and runs normally (after the air is gone...) then it might be a bad lift pump allowing drain back. Even a tiny leak in a fuel line will allow air to enter even if no fuel leaks out.

As for replacement fuel lines I would go with stainless over copper or steel in that environment.

Rene