decisions, decisions.

[twoslo4five0]

So if anyone on here knows me they know I have had my fair share of axles in the past. Ive had 60s with 35 spline all the way through (and broke 60s) to a set of rockwells sitting in my shop right now,And no they aren't going in this rig. Here is where im currently at right now.

My blazer has 38s (good tread) on 15x10s with a welded dana 44 and 488s. Toy joints in the front driveshaft, 14 bolt in the rear with a Detroit and 1350s in a slip yoke. My truck works great for what it is. This weekend I rode with rigs all built way beyond mine and broke 1 warn hub (was my intention for that to be the fuse, just didn't think it would fuse as fast as it did ) and 1 stub shaft which was my own fault for acting dumb (got hung up and frusterated and was taking a retarded line).

Now I rode all day yesterday no breakage, 1 warn hub on the long side, 1 flange on the short side. factory inner and outer and a spicer joint. Note ive only ever broken one d44 joint and I think that was due to it being old.


Now after all this long winded speech, I plan on running these 38s for a long time (well the wife says so ) so in my mind I really don't feel as though I need a 60 YET (not never, just yet) so im thinking of buying a set of d44 4340s. My only real thing is I don't want to get out there and the 4340s be barley stronger than my stock shafts and be disappointed. I run a factory 700/208 not clocked nothing. I wheel with 1 ton double up rigs and Toyotas that are built. I just have to pick different lines.

what do you dudes think? If I go 60, its going to be a while with my funds.


Oh and no pics no proof, Here is the trail we rode where I broke my stub.

and here is my rig.

 

[blazinzuk]

I have alway thought if your gonna stay with 38s that chro mos in front are just fine even on our heavy rigs. Early Broncos are dang near the one weight as we are ( trust me they are) and chro mos in those with 38s gold up just fine.

You know your gonna need the 60 eventually chro mo the thing and have fun

 

[big dan]

I think you'll be just fine with chromos and even if you do get a 60 later on, this will keep you wheeling now. If everyone waited till they got a 60 to go wheeling there would be lots of rigs sitting on jackstands including mine

 

[70jimmy]

Yep I resemble that remark!!

 

[SouthernYank]

I think you'll be just fine with chromos and even if you do get a 60 later on, this will keep you wheeling now. If everyone waited till they got a 60 to go wheeling there would be lots of rigs sitting on jackstands including mine

 

[munepit]

I see 6 guys watching and you working. Good thing you have spares and tools!!!

 

[twoslo4five0]

I see 6 guys watching and you working. Good thing you have spares and tools!!!

I know what will break!

now im trying to decide between

nitro inners and outers (I have a acct) and longfield joints (cheapest)

foote (maker of superior) inners and outers and longfield joints ($$)

nitro inners and foote stubs and longfield joints ($)

or just buy a set of rcvs and be done with it. down side is I have to buy a set of flanges with rcvs as they are 30 spline and not 19 spline like my current pucks. ($$$)

rcvs and slugs are twice the price of the nitros with longfields.

 

[blazinzuk]

I have had good luck with the foote stuff but know some guys runnng nitros aney are just fine.


I think the rcvs are pointless in your application. They are the way to go when you are building a high zoot axle. Not for someone wanting to go wheeling till they can build their 60

 

[Avery4jc]

I say put it back together and go light on the throttle while you save for a 60. I'm running 38's with a 60 that has cromo inners and 35 spline outers. It's nice to know it'll hold up to just about whatever you throw at it.

I understand money doesn't grow on trees and I wheeled a stock 10 bolt front for many years before I was in the position to build up a 60 for the truck.