Deep 700r tanny pan and front shaft...

[Highlander]

Back a few months ago I lost my 208 and I later found out the 700r went south as well. I put in a 205 and had the 700r rebuilt after I got the K5 back from the tranny shop I did not like how it shifted The tranny shop said they would put in a shift kit for 150.00, I thought I could do it so I got the kit and ordered a deep pan from Summit. Today I got around to putting in the kit and the pan, After I got it all in and on I went and put the new front drive shaft in, After looking at the whole set up I notice that I have about 1/4" of Clearance between the pan and the CV Joint.
Has anyone else had this problem? And if so what did you do about it?
Right now I'm thinking I'm going to have to put a nice dent in my new chrome pan, I don't think I should grind any thing off the shaft and throw it off balance. My K5 has a 2in lift with 35 BFG's The springs Flex really well.
Any ideas on what I should do will be helpful.

Eric

 

[Chris_T]

My pan was clearanced a little with a hammer just so I felt better, but the guys at the shop told me that as long as the double cardan joint is in good shape 1/4" should be enough. I was more concerned about mud getting up there or wrapping grass or loose branches up in there

 

[Highlander]

Thank you
I know the CV is good but, I still mite take my BFH to the pan But Damn I going to hate to have to dent that pan /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Oh well that's the fun of this sport.

Eric

 

[Chris_T]

Careful - I'm on my second pan because the first one cracked /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[HarryH3]

Be sure that you use the rubber BFH, so you don't damage that purty chrome surface! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Leadfoot]

How'd you fit a deep pan (different series CV)? Does your 205 have the front flange or a yoke? My stock pan hit the front shaft (4" of lift), so I cut the corner out, and had a piece of aluminum tig welded in to give me slight clearance (I just hope the front shaft doesn't let go) /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Highlander]

I don't know Leadfoot it just went on, I do have the Flange type maybe that's why it fit. I mite find a hill or something to see if it will hit and if it does I'll go back to the stock pan.
When I had the shaft rebuilt I had them put in the stock U-Joints in as well.
My pan is chorme steel if yours was the aluminum would it of been bigger?

Eric

 

[Leadfoot]

It's the stock pan (thin material) which I "think" is stamped aluminum as it has not rusted up here in the salt belt. It's not like the aftermarket cast aluminum pans with the thick walls and cooling fins.

 

[Highlander]

Yours hit with the stock pan eh? or was really close. Thats not good I guess I'm going to have to take the Heathen out and flex springs a little real slow like.
I don't think the stock pan is aluminum I think it's coated with something the reason I say this is cause I took mine to work hot tanked it the bead blasted it that and there was some rust on mine where it had been rubed on.
But I've been wrong before.

Eric

 

[jeffro]

Might be a good enough reason to get a doubler.

 

[Highlander]

You know I found out why we go to the doubler. After driving the Heathen in 4lo I almost want the 208 back. Maybe someday I can con the wife in to something like that, yea right

Eric

 

[Leadfoot]

It actually "rubbed" with stock pan and 4" lift. I was afraid of it wearing through, so I modified the pan for more clearance.