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definetly reconsidering leaving idler gears in 203 while drill and tap

down4thakrown

down4thakrown

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so i stripped the 203 i got for my doubler over a year ago. and the main input/output ball bearings made there way under my bench grinder/drill press and ended up getting full of metal shavigns. so i found a doner 203 for the bearings. well as i drilled and started to tap my original gear box i started looking at the mess inside of the box and thinking of just drilling and taping my donor gear box and leaving the idler gears in so i dont have to mess with the 60 (or so it seems) needle bearings and washers/spacer. im thinking i can just stuff a rag in it to block all the shavings and the one hole i gotta drill where the idlers gears are just not drill completely through? :dunno: what you guys think?
 
the gear has few oil feed holes and if you get shavings down in it = no good.

the gear bearing repack is not that bad a job . just do like I did with some grease and it be just fine.

also note there is a specific spacing of the bearings / spacer to the feed hole.
 
sweetk30 said:
the gear bearing repack is not that bad a job . just do like I did with some grease and it be just fine.
Click to expand...

Do not use axle grease for this, you need to use something that soluble in oil or you risk overheating the bearings. I use Petroleum Jelly to hold them in place, if it's hot where you live like it is here in AZ, toss it in the freezer to make it thicker. You can also use assembly lube, but regular grease is a bad thing. Those bearings are designed to have oil flowing through them to keep them cool, grease will clog the oiling holes and cause them to overheat.

Also, it's not that difficult to put the bearings back together. Fully disassemble the 203 housing, drill, tap and reassemble.
 
i guess im just intimitated by all the bearings and keeping them in place with the washers while sliding the gears back in. what petroleum jelly should i look for? just regular stuff and super market? and how do i know i got the right spaceing? do i just put together following a exploded view and the spacers and washer being in the right place will give me the right spaceing? and even with the 203 face down on flat surface. they all stay in place while pounding the pin back in?
 
Vaseline works just fine, or get the store off brand, it doesn't matter. The pin should slide in past the bearings before you get to the part where it needs pressed in so they should stay in place.

It's been a while since I took a 203 apart, but on the 205 I just rebuilt it's pretty obvious where all the rollers and washers go. You can't put too many in and if there's a gap big enough for another roller then it needs one. On the 205 it was a row of needles, washer, needles, washer. I'd assume the 203 is the same, but follow the exploded view pictures for reference.
 
i got the gears in there. the shaft was not sliding through the gears to easily took some good hits. even on the starting side. defenitly having the case on its side is the way to do it. but i ended up bending the last brass thick spacer, while trying to straigten it, the ear broke. but i got it straightened out (for the most part), and got it all back together and but it doesnt spin to free. i can turn it buy hand but not easily. should i go back through it and put a new spacer? or do these need to be "broke in like?" and just run it
 
Just showing that there is assembly lube meant for that very purpose. It works much better than vaseline.

Martin
 
gotcha, it probly would of went alot better useing that stuff :waytogo: but i was able to knock the pin down just enough to slide the fubared washer out and slide the new one in. hopefully the little ear on the washer can go ethier side. we'll find out i guess :thumb: but it spins free now
 
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