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degree shims and x-over drag link hitting leaf spring

fubar_k5

fubar_k5

1/2 ton status
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Mar 24, 2009
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warrens, WI
I installed 10* shims on the front axle when I was letting the front end down the drag link hits the leaf spring pretty good like if all the weight was down it would bend it. its a bent draglink from sky offroad and idk what the steering arm is the guy gave it to me when I bought the axle. I flipped the drag link around so the bent end is on the passenger side but then I got about 4 inches clearence from the engine cross-member. Anyone have this problem? maybe I need a straight drag link:dunno:
 
Your real problem is the 10 deg shim on a front axle, in addition to causing problems like you found your caster (the part of alignment that keeps your truck from wandering and darting all over the road) will be WAY off now.

You really should cut the inner c's, turn them and weld them back up especially with something as extreme as a 10 deg shim.
 
I just came back inside ill go back out and get pictures of where im at right now

I took the drag link and swapped it back around so the bent end is on the driver side then quarter turned it so the bend is facing straight out the front of the truck.

Just to get some what of an idea of where a straight drag link would end up. the way it sits now it clears the leaf spring. My clearence of the engine cross member is a little bit better but could still be some interference.

I was wondering if having the draglink in that position would work or if it would be more prone to bending since the bend isnt going with the line of motion of what it was intended for.
 
With a 10* shim in the front, your tires will be turning into the ground.
You have to either re-tube, or cut the knuckles and turn them.....
 
Where does everyone get the idea that shims are to fix pinion angle in the front? You NEVER adjust pinion angle with shims in the front. The only thing shims should be used for is to correct caster from using longer shackles.

Thats your problem. And btw the dip in the drag link is designed to land the draglink in the middle of the engine crossmembers for low lift trucks.
 
Thats why i got the shims was to fix the caster it was 14* before and is 4* now. I did a search and theres quite a few people that run theres at 4*. I agree a 10* shim is excessive but didnt see the problems I would have until now.

I also know why the drag link is bent like that I just turned it quarter turn to get some what of an idea of a straight drag link.
 
If your caster is 4* (which it should be 5-7 fyi) then your drag link should not be hitting your springs.

I have 5* caster with 4 leafs AND a zero rate and my draglink still cleared.

You are putting your caster the right way right? Top behind bottom ball joint?
 
yes top behind bottom. the springs are flipped so it moves the axle foward. I think im just gonna take the shims out and flipped the springs around. Ran it like that before when I had half ton axles. The reason I ended up with 4* looking up on here seen people running from 3* all the way to 7* and they said that it went down the road just fine. So I ended up with 4*.

sorry if im sounding like a dumbass buddy of mine is up here on leave he leaves saturday we got a trip planned for friday was hoping to have this thing done by then. kind of looking like that aint gonna happen.
 
You're fine and 4 deg isn't the end of the world for sure.

I guess I'm not really seeing your problem thinking about how my crossover is setup (it's ORD stuff). I'm running 52's up front and the shorter straight part of the draglink is on the steering box side (if that makes sense). I can't imagine how I could make the draglink hit the spring.


Again, I feel like pictures would help.
 
How thick is the leaf pack including the shim?

How tall is the steering arm?

shackle length?

Chris is right, pics would be the best way to proceed.
 
Yea sorry about the pics every time I went outside I kept forgetting its dark out now ill try to remember to get pics tommarrow. cant remember how thick my pack is but if i remember correctly its 7 leaves includeing the overload. 7" shackle the steering arm I cant remember i think it was 1" thick.
 
fubar_k5 said:
Yea sorry about the pics every time I went outside I kept forgetting its dark out now ill try to remember to get pics tommarrow. cant remember how thick my pack is but if i remember correctly its 7 leaves includeing the overload. 7" shackle the steering arm I cant remember i think it was 1" thick.
Click to expand...


7 leaf pack on the front is a pretty hugely thick pack. That is probably some of your problem. 7" shackle is also going to cause some issues. I'd try to shorten that up to 6" if possible. We run 6" shackles on every 52 swap we have here. Shackle angle will also play into how the length of the shackle effects the caster angle. Alot of guys on here like the longer ones though.

You can tweak the pack, tweak the shackle length or any combination. Any of these may cause you to change the shim degree to something thinner which will also help with clearance. Possible you may end up needing a taller arm if the others don't create the clearance you need. Or as you already mentioned, a straight drag link may also be the fix for your particular setup.
 
Yea would be nice to get the demenisons of a ord steering arm for comparison I posted a pic of my steering arm on here b4 and nobody could figure out what it was.

I was thinking of tweaking the pack losing the overload and taking some springs out. also have a set of 52s that are alot thinner. I have your b52 kit, well the hanger anyways built into the factory body mount. was thinking about messing with that also but might just be easier to tweak the springs I have.
 
They also make arm spacers. Honestly I dont think 7 leafs and a overload would be much more than my 4 leafs and a zero rate...
 
I got taller arms for the knuckles to get more clearance for my tie rod, but then I also use heim's. My old arms were one inch thick and came straight out from on top of the flattop knuckles. The new ones have a good upstep on them.
 
I was thinking about arm spacers but didnt know if they even make them. I run a cnc plasma table and autocad at work so wont be to hard to make some up. whats the thickest you would go with a spacer figure if you went to thick it would put more stress on the knuckle or no?
 
fubar_k5 said:
I was thinking about arm spacers but didnt know if they even make them. I run a cnc plasma table and autocad at work so wont be to hard to make some up. whats the thickest you would go with a spacer figure if you went to thick it would put more stress on the knuckle or no?
Click to expand...

It would put more stress on the knuckle and more likely to break the studs. I would go by what the aftermarket companies offer.
 
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