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Desktop Dyno Guys... Where can I get.... *UPDATE* How should I build my 383?

PhoenixZorn

PhoenixZorn

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where can I get dyno files for desktop dyno 2000??

in the meantime, what are some of you 383 guys running for parts so i can see what my 327 will make when I stroke it? what's the stroke on a 383?
 
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I used to do Desktop Dyno. Dunno what happened to all my files. I think its in the computer that needs a new processor and motherboard. The 383 uses 400 crank so its 3.75" stroke I believe. Mine is a stroker kit with forged rods 9.8:1 pistons. I have Edlebrock heads, Comp Cams XE274 bumpstick (230/2336 @ .050. with .490/.500 lift) RPM air Gap manifold, Barry Grant Speed Demon (think I will switch to Holley Truck Avenger) Noisy gear drive and Hooker Headers. The motor used to be in my 72 Nova. Im dumping the Nova because it doesnt have a body panel without bondo, needs all new interior and wiring so the 12000 mile motor is going into my 73 K20 that smokes a bit. I dont have exact power #'s but I should be 425-450HP. It is strong, fast, and loud!!! I used 2 chamber flows and glasspacks and it was too loud for the street!! Oh another thing. I could never get Desktop Dyno to come close to actual confirmed power #'s. :D
 
That's my problem... when I first asked someone to run my numbers, they got it down to almost exactly what the shop told me it was rated at... but when I run the same numbers, I get like 415ftlbs and 315hp... and at the wrong RPMs too... I don't know what I'm doing wrong... also, what the crap are IVO(BTDC) IVC(ABDC) EVO(BBDC) and EVC(BTDC)?? Is there any place to download Cam files and Airflow files?
 
IVO = intake valve opening, IVC = intake valve closing, exhaust open and close... BTDC = Before top dead Center, ABDC = is Advancing, dunno exactly, maybe Advanced Beyond Dead Center. not sure but its advancing. Playing with these may give you a few more or less ponies at a little higher or lower RPM's. Like when you play with your timing on yer engine. :confused:
 
I might seriously consider these heads next time I need some, if I ever do.

At the bottom are the flow numbers, might want to build a .flw with those. That program is kind of fun. :)
 
If I had the $$$ to replace the heads on my 383 I would go with AFR heads. There not the cheapest but they rock. I believe the websight is airflowresearch.com Check 'em out. Probly go with the 190cc.
 
My 383 looks like it will be around 410hp@5000 and 509ft*lbs@2000, 515ft*lbs@3000, 481ft*lbs@4000...

Sounds like a good towing engine to me...

That's at 9.8:1 compression... I could get over 600ft*lbs and 450hp with a compression ratio of 13.5:1... but I don't think I want to run premium in a 20 year old truck. =)

THe numbers above are also for a .060" over bore, rather than a .030", which is all I'd really need... after changing it to .030", I lost 3hp and 6 ft*lbs, so it's a toss-up... Why do the over excessive bore for a few extra horsepower, when it severely weakens the cylinder walls...

The bright side is that it stays above 400ft*lbs until after the HP peak... I'm liking this engine for a tow rig or an offroad machine... now to figure out what kind of induction... I could get up around 900hp with a supercharger... but I don't have $10,000 to blow on a blown motor... nor do I have the money to pay for the gas that monster will eat. I'll stick with the Q-Jet until I can pony up the bills for the Z28 injection...
 
Heh... now I need a Head suggestion for a 454 build... =) Just in case my dad decides his RV 400 isn't dropping it like it's hot....
 
Root Breaker, 4200 cams?? holy crap...

Oh yeah... after using 2000 for a few hours, I got 2003... it's much better.... I have a demo for anyone who needs it, as well as any extra files you need... I still need more "Real" cams and head files...
 
PhoenixZorn said:
Root Breaker, 4200 cams?? holy crap...

Oh yeah... after using 2000 for a few hours, I got 2003... it's much better.... I have a demo for anyone who needs it, as well as any extra files you need... I still need more "Real" cams and head files...
Click to expand...

since that site allows you to download cam and heads.... are they free? If so I can zip mine up for ya if that is "Allowed"..... :crazy:

oh yeah.. that is also ferd, dudge, pontiac, vw, amc...etc.... :grin:
 
I would imagine that cam and head files are pretty much free license unless they are trademarked by a company... like if you have cams that Crane Cams sells as a package from their website, I would say you would be giving away wares then... but if you got all yours from free sources (and anyone can modify those files so they are no longer company property) then it should be good to go... PM incomming...
 
desktop dyno is a joke, if you load the same cam with the seat to seat numbers and then load the cam at the manufacturers .050" duration numbers, you get a totally different power curve even though it's the same cam........um, no thanks.
 
That's at 9.8:1 compression... I could get over 600ft*lbs and 450hp with a compression ratio of 13.5:1... but I don't think I want to run premium in a 20 year old truck. =)
Click to expand...

You'll probably be running premium at 9.8:1. If not, youll have to compromise timing to an unacceptable degree. With 13.5:1 you would need race gas. Another thing to look at might be a Dynamic Compression Calculator. That way you can see what octane you will need for the motor.

DD2000 is interesting, but I don't think it accurate enough to be more than a curiosity.

What parts are you using for the 383?
 
mountain4x4 said:
What parts are you using for the 383?
Click to expand...


Block

SBC 327 Truck block - Currently frozen, and I don't know if it can even be salvaged, but until I find out otherwise, this is the plan. Will be bored to .030" over or more... all depends on how the inside of the block looks... if it looks like crap, I'll have it bored and sleeved to .030". It will be punched for the 400 crank, and stroke will be 3.750"

Crank

Until I see otherwise after removing it from the running 400 I have, I will be using the crank out of the 80 blazer I just bought. I know it will need work, and a quote will follow the removal of the piece to see if perhaps I'd be better off just buying a new crank.

Cam

Comp Cams 12-205-2 - Strong torque, excellent mileage. Smooth idle. For 327-400 cid, w/high axle ratios. (I don't know what actual Comp Cam model number this is, but I went through a bunch of them before I finally decided on this one...

The other choice is:

Comp Cams 12-207-2 - Good cam for highway use. RV, off road & towing. Good for trucks w/low axle ratios. Smooth idle.

Heads

GM Performance Parts Fast Burn heads - 1.94 int, 1.50 exh, All the other fun goodies these heads have... got them from a link earlier in this post... they have been compared to just about every other head available to the software, and they seem to perform the best.

Pistons

Undecided on these, as Desktop Dyno doesn't include a choice for them... I don't really know anything about pistons, hence why I started this thread in the first place... to see what all the other guys put on their 383s... If they are in fairly decent shape, I may use the connecting rods from the 400, but will likely just buy a set of performance pistons and rods.

I'll likely build it with a gear drive rather than a timing chain, but I don't want the noisy one... I'm thinking I'll be ripping the rear quarters off the 80 blazer, along with the 12 bolt under it, and replacing them with a D80 Dually and Dually quarters. The front 10 bolt will be swapped for a D60 DRW axle or possibly converted to 2wd with IFS... The wheelbase will be lengthenned by about 6-7 inches when all is said and done, and it will get a 5-ton towing package, front and rear.

it will be the ONLY dually blazer in Wisconsin that is actually used for towing... I also dropped the compression to 9.0:1 before I made this post, and didn't lose too much power... so I'll be able to run pump gas on it...

This isn't a summer project mind you... this will take me at least 2 years to complete on my own, if not more... but it will be fun as hell, and it will be unique for sure. I'd like opinions on my parts choices, as well as my design ideas... I don't welcome flames, but just in case someone decides to flame this post... I'll just drop this here...

trollfeeder.gif


Seriously... no offence to anyone here... just found it laying around, and had to drop it somewhere...
 
So it will be a lengthened dually Blazer?? Interesting. Would like to see some pics of that. Maybe roll on some 36" tires?? That would look sick!! Definately get some heads turning with the "WTF" look. Well just have fun with it man. :cool1:
 
The cam you suggest is small for a 383, I'd go a little bigger. More displacement, more cam. Comp 12-235-2 would be a minimum I'd go with.

With these torquer cams, cylinder pressures are high at low rpms, I'd suggest 9.5 is the highest cr you can use with iron heads. If you want to use 87, you might be looking at 9:1. It looks like DD has cylinder pressures in there, so you can check on that and make sure it'll work for you.

Also, check out www.cnc-motorsports.com . I bought a 383 kit with Eagle crank, rods, KB Hypereutectic pistons, rings, bearings, dampner and flexplate, all balanced and ready to go for $800. This is a better approach than machining your 400 crank to fit, and probably costs about the same.

The DD seems a little optimistic, GMPP HT383 crate motor make 340 hp, 435 tq with a roller cam and Vortec heads. You'll need to step up the cam choice considerably to make what DD says, IMHO... Mild torquer v8s dont quite make 1hp/cu in.
 
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