Hey everyone...Hope all are having a good holiday season.
Gooody...Gooody /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
I'm getting a Detroit for the 14BFF I'm building for the TanK10 /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif right now...207 bucks used off e-bay plus shipping.
Here's what I'm wondering...
Right now I'm running 33's on stock rear 52" springs on the TanK10 with no suspension lift whatsoever (just a couple inches of body lift). I have a set of 1-Ton 7 leaf 56" spring packs that I have taken down to 5 leaves plus the overload inverted. After reading all the positives about running the longer leaves for flex and ride I've decided to use the 56's when I install the axle.
Would you Guru's recommend:
A. Move the stock spring hangers back to the rear set of holes (K-10's already have the extra holes drilled for the longer springs 4" aft) and use Echobit's bolt on shackle flip.
B. Leave the hangars where they are and use Echobit's 57" F0*D spring conversion shackles with MY 56" springs (what kind of angle and/or ride quality with the shackles at a more vertical angle than with 57"? would it even be safe?)
C. Use a stock FRONT hanger from an old junker and make my own shackle flip (means drilling new holes)
D. Use the ORD shackle flip brackets and reverse the sides for the longer springs
E. Use the ORD brackets on their intended sides and use the rear set of holes, 4" aft in the frame.
What IS the optimum shackle angle for flex vs. stability?
I'm also planning on ordering the Tuff Country EZ-Ride front 4" springs to get the nose up when I install the 8-lug D-44 I have in the garage. It has a Dana Trac-Lock.
When the transformation takes place I'll be going from 10blt 3.08's /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif to 4.10's with 305 /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif and 700R4
I plan on using 33's until I can afford 35's
Thanks everyone for running a top notch site without all the flaming! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Gooody...Gooody /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
I'm getting a Detroit for the 14BFF I'm building for the TanK10 /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif right now...207 bucks used off e-bay plus shipping.
Here's what I'm wondering...
Right now I'm running 33's on stock rear 52" springs on the TanK10 with no suspension lift whatsoever (just a couple inches of body lift). I have a set of 1-Ton 7 leaf 56" spring packs that I have taken down to 5 leaves plus the overload inverted. After reading all the positives about running the longer leaves for flex and ride I've decided to use the 56's when I install the axle.
Would you Guru's recommend:
A. Move the stock spring hangers back to the rear set of holes (K-10's already have the extra holes drilled for the longer springs 4" aft) and use Echobit's bolt on shackle flip.
B. Leave the hangars where they are and use Echobit's 57" F0*D spring conversion shackles with MY 56" springs (what kind of angle and/or ride quality with the shackles at a more vertical angle than with 57"? would it even be safe?)
C. Use a stock FRONT hanger from an old junker and make my own shackle flip (means drilling new holes)
D. Use the ORD shackle flip brackets and reverse the sides for the longer springs
E. Use the ORD brackets on their intended sides and use the rear set of holes, 4" aft in the frame.
What IS the optimum shackle angle for flex vs. stability?
I'm also planning on ordering the Tuff Country EZ-Ride front 4" springs to get the nose up when I install the 8-lug D-44 I have in the garage. It has a Dana Trac-Lock.
When the transformation takes place I'll be going from 10blt 3.08's /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif to 4.10's with 305 /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif and 700R4
I plan on using 33's until I can afford 35's
Thanks everyone for running a top notch site without all the flaming! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif