gonefishin
1/2 ton status
i have never heard of one untill the other day i found them new for $270 has anyone used one of these? how do they compare to a lockright i need one for my front 10 bolt
CK5
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detroit ez locker?
- Thread starter gonefishin
- Start date
crashandburn
1/2 ton status
Don't do it.
If you lock a 10 bolt, it is just a matter of time. This is especially true with that type of locker. It is pretty much the same thing as a lockright. By itself it is not so bad, but the problem is that you retain your stock carrier, and just replace the stock guts (spider gears, etc) with the locker pieces. The stock carrier is weak. If you have 35's or less, and you go easy on it, your 10 bolt may last many years if it is only driving one tire. Throw in a locker and throw out durability.
If you lock a 10 bolt, it is just a matter of time. This is especially true with that type of locker. It is pretty much the same thing as a lockright. By itself it is not so bad, but the problem is that you retain your stock carrier, and just replace the stock guts (spider gears, etc) with the locker pieces. The stock carrier is weak. If you have 35's or less, and you go easy on it, your 10 bolt may last many years if it is only driving one tire. Throw in a locker and throw out durability.
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
i am running 35's one set of mud terains and i also have a set of boggers i am tired of only one tire turning lol i need some form of a locker up front but i don't have enough cash for a d60 and i also beat on it pretty hard
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Yep...
Mine has an Eaton Posi, up front.
But, I also have Yukon Axles, HD U-joints, etc.
If you wanna lock the front end, You gotta go full beef.
But, by the time you have $600-$900 invested in a 10 bolt....
You'll wish you had bought a D60.
Ask me how I know...
Your going to break ALOT if you do it.
built 10 bolt or 44 front = $$$ and good strength .
stock dana 60 and lockright for good cheep locker = money in the bank. beefy axle stock.
then grab some 2.5-3.0 back space rims in 15x10 and bolt them on and go no grinding.
i use to run a dana 44 3/4 ton front. had 38x12.50 tsl and open diff. ran 4.10 gears. std cab lbed just general play and some mud . i blew 2 axles cause the gears went out. riped the teeth off the ring gear both times. took my money and few extra i saved and got a bone stock dana 60 with 4.10 in it. that stoped all my problems 100% that was over 10 years ago. and that axle is still going under my plow truck now with a hd 9ft fisher snow plow on it with 35" tires. still havent broken a thing yet in it. i have even done burn outs in 4wd and wheels turned all the way left or right in the snow on blacktop and dirt. still havent broken anything.
so basicly if you need more from a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton dont waste the cash . just go 60 in the front. or if rear 14sf at min but better 14ff.
stock dana 60 and lockright for good cheep locker = money in the bank. beefy axle stock.
then grab some 2.5-3.0 back space rims in 15x10 and bolt them on and go no grinding.
i use to run a dana 44 3/4 ton front. had 38x12.50 tsl and open diff. ran 4.10 gears. std cab lbed just general play and some mud . i blew 2 axles cause the gears went out. riped the teeth off the ring gear both times. took my money and few extra i saved and got a bone stock dana 60 with 4.10 in it. that stoped all my problems 100% that was over 10 years ago. and that axle is still going under my plow truck now with a hd 9ft fisher snow plow on it with 35" tires. still havent broken a thing yet in it. i have even done burn outs in 4wd and wheels turned all the way left or right in the snow on blacktop and dirt. still havent broken anything.
so basicly if you need more from a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton dont waste the cash . just go 60 in the front. or if rear 14sf at min but better 14ff.
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
i am building a van width 14bff for the rear right now and really i don't have the cash for a d60 maybe next year i am just tired of being stuck cause only one tire on each end spins when i swap my rear i might take the limited slip out the rear and put it in the front i have to do bearings anyway but it don't work that well so it probably won't help anything
You may end up broken instead of stuck
Tough to say, if you're hard on it 35's can demolish a 10 bolt. Typically the "lunchbox style lockers" don't hold up well on a 10 bolt, the carrier is simply too small. I don't think anyone warranties them over 31's.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
You may end up broken instead of stuck
I was just about to say, "Isn't broken worse than stuck?"
and, for jeebus sake, do a 14bff rear end.
They're practically indestructable...
I have a "No-Spin" locker in my 14bff, and I can pretty much do everything in 2WD.
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
does anyone think me putting the limited slip up front would be worth it or just leave it alone?
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
right now i have a 10 bolt in the back with a limited slip thats what i am thinking about putting up front and yes my 14b is getting a locker and a mild shave working on that now
you sure its a limited slip or gov-loc ?
what ever it is its a full gear setup basicly to swap the carrier over.
and gov-loc will not last up front at all. and limited slip will be to week for actual power dist dutys.
i use to run locked rear 14 ff and open front never had any real problems.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Like I said, I can do almost ANYTHING in 2WD, w/ a locked 14bff.
You could have an open front and still be good.
I know a lot of people run that way.
I would do what SweetK30 said, and just run a Locked rear and Open front.
You could have an open front and still be good.
I know a lot of people run that way.
I would do what SweetK30 said, and just run a Locked rear and Open front.
1BEATK5
1/2 ton status
x3. i drive alot in 2wd low range. turning and manuvering is great and i save the front axle work for the hills and holes.
