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Detroit locker

dysphemism

1/2 ton status
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Fremont, CA
I just bought a 14-bolt FF and am currently rebuilding it. I want to drop a detroit locker in it. I was wondering what is the most street-friendly locker there is?

Beefing up my truck broken part by broken part.
1986 GMC Jimmy 9" lift, 38" swampers, and a sarcastic liscense plate holder.
 
I have Lock Rights and everybody says they're terrible on the street. I have not found this to be true. In fact, they are quite tame.

If you offroad, then you need to be locked up. Period. I think if you're a real off-roader, the mild noise that comes from a locker won't bother you at all. If you're a sissy poser however, maybe lockers aren't for you. Bottom line: there's a lot of hype out there about how bad lockers are on the street, but I think most of it is perpetrated by people who don't know what they're talking about.
 
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

If you're a sissy poser however, maybe lockers aren't for you. Bottom line: there's a lot of hype out there about how bad lockers are on the street, but I think most of it is perpetrated by people who don't know what they're talking about.

<hr></blockquote>

LOL!

Well, I think it has a lot to do with opinions and a person's definition of "tame". I think my Detroit Locker is tame, but my buddy can't get used to it when he drives my rig! It pulls to one side when I get on the throttle and when I let off it jerks back. It took a day or two to get used to it but it's second nature to me now. When my sister drove my truck, she explained the phenomenon as "weird". All in all I think any locker's street behavior is going to be "weird" compared to an open diff. If you're doing any hard core wheeling I think a locker is a necessity reguardless of the one you choose.

Bo


If it breaks, it wasn't good enough!
http://coloradok5.com/gallery/liberator
 
well im going to get one I was just wondering what is the most tame one. If the answer is none then I don't mind putting up with some more quirks. I think any big truck is full of them already.

1986 GMC Jimmy 6" springs 3" body, 38/15.5/15 Swampers, 14-bolt FF rear, Dana 60 front, 1991 front-end.
 
For a 14bff a detroit is about as tame as they get from what I've heard. Thats what I am going to put in my 14bff when I get it this summer. Not to mention they are cheap for the 14bff.

My Chevy isn't broken, its just out of gas.
 
Well my choice was different. I am used to the torque pull from a locked rear back in my street racing and drag racing days so it doesnt bother me. But for my 12 bolt a Detroit is expensive compared to a 14bolt. I went with a Detroit EZ locker. reason why is it is quiter and less jerky than the ful out locker. My drive train shop says "I will break and axle before I break that thing" It costs about half the price.

<font color=purple>79' K-5 396cid 600hp, TH350, NP203</font color=purple>
<a target="_blank" href=http://blueknight.alloffroad.com>http://blueknight.alloffroad.com</a>
 
Lets see. Big J Bear got about 4 hard rides before the EZ exploded.
Robzilla got a couple rides and blew it then got a replacement and blew it an hour after it was installed.
EZ's for 12's are junk.
Real Detroit is where it's at.
As for a locker for a 14. Heck the real Detroit is like $325.

Women dig dents and flat paint!
coloradok5.com/gallery/Grim
75 Jimmy, Dollar
Grim-Reaper
 
ya I've been looking around and the detroit is about the only locker I can find. I'm gonna just go with that sucker. My truck used to be a daily driver but not so much anymore. I'll live with the locker. Plus when I go offroad it will pay off big time.

1986 GMC Jimmy 6" springs 3" body, 38/15.5/15 Swampers, 14-bolt FF rear, Dana 60 front, 1991 front-end.
 
The Lock-Right is about the same price and the guys here seem to think it's much stronger.

I personally wonder how your 12 bolt rear survives 600 HP at all, so count your blessings.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
I had heard all the bad stuff about lockers and street manners and was very aprehensive about installing a 14B with a Detroit in it. After two months, I can now honestly say that with an automatic transmission the Detroit is a huge non issue on the street. Yes I do know it is there, but it has not changed the way I drive at all, it is not noisy or bang and pop as I have heard others say, now I wonder why I waited so long. Off-road I can honestly say that the locker is the single best mod I have ever made.

Derf00
1990 K5 Jimmy 350 Edelbrock Performer TBI, 6in BDS Lift, Dana 60, 4.56, Corp 14B Detriot, 16x10 AE 589's, 37x12.5 SSR
 
sounds good to me. I'm not that concerned about it anymore. I can't make a u-turn as is now so im not concerned about losing that. I'm anxious to see how much better it will wheel with a locker in it.

1986 GMC Jimmy 6" springs 3" body, 38/15.5/15 Swampers, 14-bolt FF rear, Dana 60 front, 1991 front-end.
 
does anyone have a locker in the front? I want an ARB but not enough money for that now. Anyone have one of those in the front?

1986 GMC Jimmy 6" springs 3" body, 38/15.5/15 Swampers, 14-bolt FF rear, Dana 60 front, 1991 front-end.
 
I have a Dana Trac Lok in the front of mine and the only time you know it is there is when the hubs are locked. I also have a Detroit in the rear and it is a daily driver. Once in a while the detroit likes to let you know it is in there but it has fairly tame street manors. I think the key to street driving with a locker in back is just to remember to coast through sharp turns and let it ratchet.

See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
<font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
<font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
 
I run full Detroit lockers front and rear in my 10-bolts. If I were to do it all over again, I would save the money and go for an ARB in the front. While they are expensive (ARB=$650+compressor), so is a Detroit for the front (10-bolt = $505). As a matter of fact, as soon as I get my on-board air system finished, I plan to pull my front Detroit and replace it with an ARB.

As far as the behavior of the Detroit up front, it hurts your turn radius pretty severely. I have to do quite a few 3 or 5 point turns in tight spots on the trail. I am also quite careful so as not to apply a ton of power when turning pretty tight in order to help prevent steering u-joint breakage.

If I were to do it again, I would have gone with the Detroit in the rear only. Then, save some more money, get my on-board air installed, then go with an ARB up front. Now I am going to have to sell my Detroit once I get the new ARB. No way I will get the full $500 for it, but at least I will get some back. But any difference is just money I threw away.

Brian
Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
 
I welded mine
smile.gif
. No jerks and it's about the same amount of tire wear and it was a hell of a lot cheaper. You can read the write up on how I did it in the tech. You can do it that way and if you don't like it, your carrier isn't screwed and you can still go with a locker. You'd just need new spiders which aren't a big deal.

The only driveability probs I've noticed is understeer (which is no big deal) and the turning radius has suffered some. But, my truck doesn't wander anymore cause it wants to go straight!
laugh.gif


<font color=green>Can't sleep...the clown will get me</font color=green>

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.bluefox.tv/~lara>My Wonderful Site</a>
 
Yep, I've got a Detroit in the front D60 (and rear). I have only wheeled in on sand and under power it doesn't want to turn very sharp (more like tractor trailer turning radius) BUT you let off the throttle and it lets go, and turns normal. So I am not a bit sorry I did it..............plus now that I just picked up a NP205, I'll twin stick that and if it gets difficult on a tight trail I'll drop it into 2wd.

Personally, I just wanted the bulletproof performance of the Detroit over an ARB. I read a lot of these 4X boards and see a lot of references to ARB failures at the worst times.........on trails. And have yet to read about a Detroit letting go...........

ONE TON</font color=blue> <font color=green>TPI'd</font color=green><font color=red> BEAST<font color=red>
 
I've also used a Dana Trac-Lok in the front of an old F*rd I used to own. I liked it well enough to put one in the D-44 I'm building now for my TanK10.

P. eople for
E. ating
T. asty
A. nimals
85 K10, 305 700R4 33's 3.08's (14bff & D44 in the garage now, w/4.10's ;-)
 
I heard that there is going to be a spool being made for the 10.5" 14 bolt.

You look like you want your ass beat.
 
so is the difference between a spool and a locker that a locker only engages under acceleration and a spool is always engaged?

1986 GMC Jimmy 6" springs 3" body, 38/15.5/15 Swampers, 14-bolt FF rear, Dana 60 front, 1991 front-end.
 

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