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Detroits vs Lock Rights

morphed86k10

1/2 ton status
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As the post states. I want a traction device for the front of my truck, and if the less expensive Lock Right would perform similar to a detroit, I'll go with it. Are the lock rights as durable as a detroit? Has anyone broken one of these diffs? It's going in a Dana 60.
 
I'm not sure, but I think Mudzer broke a "Pop Right" at Disney. A Detroit up front will make it a bear to steer, unless you are off road only.
 
I originally wanted the DL for my front but wound up going with a Lock-Right. I kept talking to more and more people who ran the D60 version of a LR along with big 40-44" tires and had no problems. Several even reported breaking stubs with no damage to the LR. In fact, in some cases, the LRs had survived several broken axles with no problems. However, I did hear stories of DLs blowing in the same situations. Now, stories being stories, you never know. But, given the massive cost savings and time reduction, I decided to give it a try. That was my decision. Was it the right one? I still think so but I haven’t had it long. You gotta make your own call.

Good luck.
 
I have a lock rite in my front 60 with 38's and no problems so far. I had one in my 44 before with 35's and no problems. I think they work just fine unless you are very throttle happy on hard surfaces
 
But if you do have a lock right upfront doesnt it not matter unless you have hubs locked? Thats what I always thought?
 
What about lock rites in rear axle's. I was looking into one of these or a Detroit EZ-locker. It is for a 10 bolt rear, and I know everybody is going to say to upgrade my rear axle and I plan on it, but for now I am trying to work with what I have. Also can someone tell me what size the ring gear is in a 10 bolt rear out of an '85? Thanks.
 
Do not use the the EZ. If you want a drop in go with the Lock Rite.
 
As far as what size ring gear you have, either look at the options sheet in the glove box, or pull the diff cover and look for the ratio stamped into the side of the ring gear.
 
All 10 bolts in GM full size trucks (and ZR2 S10's) are 8.5" diameter ring gear. The little S10 10 bolts are 7.5" and the Camaros/Firebirds use that axle too. There are also older 10 bolts that are 8.2" out of cars, and I think even 7.2" out of really little cars.
 
Because EVERYONE I know who has larger than 31" tires has broken them. It doesn't matter if it was on a front or rear axle. Even down to a light weight CJ-5, POP.
About a year ago there was a list of people on here who broke them and it was quite long. We also had one in the club I belong to. I will admit mine held up fine with 31s.
I hear a rumor that the early EZs were closer in strenght and design to the L-R, but were changed to avoid a pending lawsuit.
 
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I hear a rumor that the early EZs were closer in strenght and design to the L-R, but were changed to avoid a pending lawsuit.

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I'd heard the same thing and read too many stories about the EZ's breaking to get one. I got the LR instead and have been very happy with it so far.
 
That price is for a Samurai locker. For a Chevy 10 bolt the price is $255.00 plus shipping, delivery is about 2 weeks. I just bought one from Desert Rat at the same price and they delivered in only 5 days.
 
If you look closely that ad says "starting at" $189. Bummer!! y the way I love my LR in the rear. I have a 10 bolt and 33's. Don't plan on changing either one of them. They havent broken yet.........
 
I run the Dynotrax locker on my front D60 with 39.5's with no problem. This locker is supposed to be a stronger, syncronized version of the Lock-Rite. I've romped on it pretty hard including spinning all four wheels up rocks. So far, so good.
 
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