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dex-cool?

Russell

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Hey guys!

I need to change the thermostat on both my 96 K1500, and my mother's 2003 Tahoe.

My truck has a 4.3L and it's thermostat is opening prematurely, which is keeping the truck at approx 160F regardless of the temperature outside. I just recently took a 200 mile trip (320km) at 75 mph (120km/h) and the truck ran that temp the whole way, even when the engine was working hard towing a reasonably heavy load up some hills at 3000 rpm in 3rd gear for a minute or two. I know that the temperature gauge is reasonably accurate, as the truck's heater is not putting out much heat. I have enough to keep my windshield defrosted, and my hands from freezing running the vents, but I am by no means warm.

The Tahoe has a 5.3L and it's thermostat is sticking wide open, which is keeping the engine running very cold, enough that the needle does not come up off the lowest temp, or does it make enough heat to warm the cabin at all. My poor mother has to dress for -40F just to keep warm while driving. She has just enough heat to defrost the windshield.

Anyways, my big concern is with mucking around with the dex-cool that both trucks have in them. I've heard that if you are not careful with bleeding all of the air out of the cooling system, it can gel up plugging the whole thing off. Is there some special procedure to bleeding the air out of either engine?

The 2003 does not even have a rad cap, just the overflow bottle on the fender. My 96 does have a cap, but I've never opened it in fear of introducing air into the system...

I'd love to get some heat going in my truck, and I'm sure my mother would like her's fixed too, so any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated!
 
both those are easy systems. and flush out thedex cool and go green or somthing other than sh!ty dex crap.
 
I've heard numerous times that American Green and aluminum don't get along, but that Dex-Cool is a fantastic coolant if you keep it air free and don't contaminate it with the old green stuff.

I don't particularly want to spend a couple hours flushing out the entire system to get rid of every trace, esspecially with the risk that there may still be enough in there to clog off my heater core or rad, really don't want to change either out on either truck, lol
 
Air in the system is not the problem, it's contaminants. Dex-Cool reacts poorly to impurities.

Have the system flushed thoroughly, and fill with distilled water. Do not use tap water.

Green works fine in aluminum radiators...again, do not use tap water. Use of pure water and direct-grounding the rad eliminate the dielectric problems that eat holes in aluminum.

By the way...do you Canadians say aluminum, or aluminium? :D
 
I've seen and heard many folks on line and in person say to just flush it well and then dump in quality green stuff. The pink stuff is too picky and has a 10 year history of iffy results.

If I ever end up with another vehicle with the non-green coolant in it I'll dump it ASAP and run some good quality green coolant as soon as I can.
Funny, both of my 2002+ Suzukis have had regular green coolant in them from the factory.
 
5-10 min job for flush out with hose. flush out both heater core hoses back and forth 2-3 times. as the crap plugs them up.

then with it running and drain open in rad and cap off. run the heater hose that goes in the block and keep it going till it comes out basicly clear. then drain and refill and flush 1 more time and drain and add 1/2 gal pure green and then 50/50 mix till full. the water left in the block will mix with the pure and be good to go. i do it all the time and thay are fine.

i had to flush a 4.3 blazer one time for 25 min till i got most of the rusty h20 out. some ass hat used 100% h20. not good at all. and we live in the ice belt. :eek1:
 
russ dex-cool is pretty forgiving, only flaw really is it eats seals that i have seen, we bring lots of vehicles in at work and flush em, fill them with the green. no problems there.

you can leave the cap off on a dex-cool vehicle all day long no issues. Up to you on what you want to do. If you refill with dex you dont got to do any special bleeding procedures, treat it like regular stuff
 
I have never actually taken the cap off my 96 before, and never looked in the reservoir either so I kinda assumed it still had dex-cool. I checked it tonight, and apparantly, someone already got rid of it for me. It is full of green stuff.

Other interesting thing to note is that whoever filled the engine did it with 100% green stuff, my tester tells me it is good for better than -50C, lol

I'll probably just put the straight stuff I drain into my infloor heating system, and just put some distilled water in to replace it, no need for coolant that thick...
 
now ive been told by a trusted mechanic friend that if you put green stuff into vortecs that it will eat all the seals in the engine, and that dex-cool is designed just for vortec rigs. mine has dex, but that is becuase my brother is FINNIKY when it comes to his cars. but what do i know, i b noob
 

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