CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Dial indicators and torque wrenches

Oh, just noticed the other question up there. The one I got was this one. Looks brand new in the box, with 1 year old calibration sticker on the box and the drive still has the calibration wax on it. I figure I paid roughly $10 for it (actually, part of a "lot" I bought for $70, including a Hardinge 5C VH Indexer which was the real prize).
 
4X4HIGH said:
You MUST have a dial or beam type wrench for checking pinion preload. A clicker type wrench WILL NOT work. Also you need a wrench that measures from 0-25 in. lbs. A torque wrench is most accurate at half of it's measurement level.

old wives tail, at least anymore.... a good torque wrench is rated +/- 2to5% from 20% to 100% and usually 5-10% below 20%
 
roadnotca said:
10b regear eh?
Take a look at KD Tools 2955 for 0-60 in. lbs. beam type. Also look at CalVan Tool 1/4-3/8 and 3/8-1/2 push/pull adapters. SEARS carries those. From there you will need a standard 1/2-3/4 adapter to drive the pinion nut socket.

that's a helluva lot of adapters...is there not another way?
 
I wouldn't call it quite an "old wives tail", though in some case, a bit over stated. For one, it's mostly true, just as you describe. There IS often an enhanced error/uncertainty range at one or both ends. Generally the main (or only) problem will be errors that creep in as you first move off the rest state and all the initial inertial/static friction/slop is taken out. In the context of torque wrenches, the effect is more significant for clicker than beam or gage types. Once you're above that break-over threshold, it should be pretty even up to the top range. Unless, there is some component that is borderline and approaching the elastic/plastic yield, or getting into some friction/galling/binding situation, or dirt/contamination effect; then you might start seeing degradation on the top end too. Again, these upper-range error sources are more likely to affect cheap to mid range clickers. Theoretically, they could also affect dials, but they tend to be on the "high end" spectrum of tools (never seen a cheap import of those???) and so are likely unaffected with considerable built in "head room" to avoid this.

So, I think that "Always prefer to avoid using a gage of any kind near it's limits" is sound advice in general. Many times, especially for questionable quality imports, you're more likely to see problems as you approach those limits.
 
jonrpick said:
that's a helluva lot of adapters...is there not another way?
The only other way I can think of would be the factory tool, if there is one. I'll look at the factory manual this afternoon.
 
Get a cheap socket that fits the pinion. Get a cheap socket with the right drive. You can often find these for $1 at the flea markets. Weld them together.

I gather these junk import sockets/sets here and there, missing pieces, broken pieces. Screw drivers with buggered blades. Broken hex bits. Etc. I toss them all into a couple of bins labeled "junk tools" Whenever I need a custom tool, I generally find something I can use for one-offs. Provides a ready set of square drives for making/adapting stuff for ratchet drives. Screw drivers with funky bent/ground shafts for cleaning, another used sorta like a drift, hex bits cut off and fixed to a shop made handle for a handy tool to adjust the table clamps on my drill press. Lots of stuff. And doesn't cost a dime...
 
Top Bottom