It was about 45 here yesterday so I went outside and decided to look over my truck's 6.2 and make sure nothing else was still leaking,after the fiasco I had during the blizzard on the 4th of this month when it decided to start spraying fuel out of the return line hose and fuel feed to the lift pump..and see what else is wrong with it..every time I open the hood or touch anything I find or create another "issue"..
I checked the glow plugs by unplugging them,and using a test light from the battery + to the glow plug spade...the furthest one forward was dead,so I installed another "spare" I had--I have about 10 # 9G glow plugs that were used, but still good and were only in an engine a short time..so I decided to use them--I know they can swell up and not want to come out,but I don't have money to throw away,$10 each for an AC 60G that will rot off the spades in a year or two isn't in my budget this month..
When I went to un-plug the glow plug closest to the drivers side firewall,the connector refused to budge--I tried spraying it with WD-40 to no avail,and after trying to wiggle it free,the tab busted off the glow plug..
..
This was the last original wire with the stock slip on connector left on the 8 plugs,I had to chop the others off years ago--they rust firmly onto the glow plug spade and after a year or two of salt exposure,those tabs snap off very easily...
As I went to cut off that connector,I noticed the green wire felt like it had no copper at the plug...stripping it back proved I was right--there was NO copper for a good inch behind the connector!..just green dust...
--but just beyond that ,it was still shiny as new..
I crimped a new connector on it,and now it was barely long enough to go back on the glow plug...
I then tested the glow plug I "ruined" and of course it was still good,but useless now,with no spade left on it..
I went over to the passenger side and tested the 3 glow plugs on that side,and the lamp lit up on all 3 of them,so I did not have to mess with them..
Then I decided to try for the umpteenth time to see if I could get the first glow plug up front on that side to come out..ever since I owned this truck for 14 years,I only succeeded in getting it to unscrew,and then it only will come out about 1/4" or so,then it feels like it swelled up so bad it will not come out...
I have tried soaking it with penetrant,using vise grips to twist it out--I even chucked the glow plug in my drill,put it in reverse and spun it a good 5 minutes,it refused to back out any further...
Then I decided I had nothing to lose by using the "let the engine compression BLOW it out" method ,I had read worked for some guys online..
I started it up with the plug screwed in by hand and let it run a few minutes..
Then I unscrewed it with a deep socket..as soon as it came free of the threads,I heard the puffing of compression escaping and saw some white fuel smoke blow out--but as soon as the glow plug hit the swelled up spot--it sealed itself tight--and ran perfectly...NO compression escaping at all!..
..
I even tried pushing in on it with the socket,and it just pulsated in and out with each stroke...then I got in the truck,and floored it several times,let it run a good 5 minutes and revved it up to the govenor a few times--it was evident its never coming out --not without breaking it anyways..and I'm not about to do that,since I cannot remove the injector without twisting off the rusted lines on it..
I could probably drive it around for a year with it unscrewed and not have it blow out...
..
Then I gave up,decided to just screw it back in,and run it with 7 glow plugs like it has been for 14 years--it went in a bit hard,I think some carbon or soot went in the threads in the hole in the head...might never unscrew again,the hex is whittling away on it..
Time will tell if it will actually start any better--the temps wont be dipping much below 30 here for awhile..hoping it'll help at least..
The truck has so many issues now,its due to be taken off the road...the inner fenders are so rotted,my plow control valve ripped off the drivers side last winter,I had to make a hasty repair using sheet metal and drive screws just to be able to use the plow,the passenger side one was breaking loose from the radiator support and the battery was drooping towards the fan...
...it really needs a whole nose,the fenders have rot..radiator support looks OK,but might not be,once everything else is unbolted..
Now the brakes feel like they have little or no power assist,not sure why,the hydroboost seems to be working,going by the tests I read and tried--it has a real firm pedal and you must stand on it to slow down now,I doubt I could lock up the wheels now..
The truck doesn't pull when you apply the brakes and they dont drag,so I doubt if its a caliper or wheel cylinder,the lines and rubber hoses were replaced in 2012--I suspect the steel braided rear flex hose might be the cause,its an "Earl's" hot rod type that is pencil thin with steel braid,maybe it clogged up inside ?....
It still needs an oil pan,the rear spring hanger on the drivers side has a slot rotted thru it,that'll last maybe another year before it comes apart..I know a spot on the frame needs the lower lip welded up where the E-brake cable anchor was ,the rivets pulled out of the frame...but its only a slot about 1/4" wide and 2" long on the bottom lip only..right next to the rear forward spring hanger..
If I decide to keep this truck ,I'm going to have to rip it apart and start replacing and welding things...the first thing to go might be the 6.2...I'm not a big fan of them,never was,but the truck was cheap when I bought it because of it...but I've had enough of the cold start blues,the stinky fuel,and the overall design of them..
If it ends up being worth "restoring" (as in no "bad" frame rot or other major discouragements),I may end up putting one of the 307's I bought in it if either one runs decent without needing an overhaul...whether I'll be able to do any of this in my present condition is doubt full though--I feel like I have busted ribs just leaning over the fender for 2 hours ...if I had a lift I'd be much more able to do this...but I may just end up leaving it as-is and just use it to plow only ...
I checked the glow plugs by unplugging them,and using a test light from the battery + to the glow plug spade...the furthest one forward was dead,so I installed another "spare" I had--I have about 10 # 9G glow plugs that were used, but still good and were only in an engine a short time..so I decided to use them--I know they can swell up and not want to come out,but I don't have money to throw away,$10 each for an AC 60G that will rot off the spades in a year or two isn't in my budget this month..
When I went to un-plug the glow plug closest to the drivers side firewall,the connector refused to budge--I tried spraying it with WD-40 to no avail,and after trying to wiggle it free,the tab busted off the glow plug..
..This was the last original wire with the stock slip on connector left on the 8 plugs,I had to chop the others off years ago--they rust firmly onto the glow plug spade and after a year or two of salt exposure,those tabs snap off very easily...
As I went to cut off that connector,I noticed the green wire felt like it had no copper at the plug...stripping it back proved I was right--there was NO copper for a good inch behind the connector!..just green dust...
--but just beyond that ,it was still shiny as new..
I crimped a new connector on it,and now it was barely long enough to go back on the glow plug...
I then tested the glow plug I "ruined" and of course it was still good,but useless now,with no spade left on it..
I went over to the passenger side and tested the 3 glow plugs on that side,and the lamp lit up on all 3 of them,so I did not have to mess with them..
Then I decided to try for the umpteenth time to see if I could get the first glow plug up front on that side to come out..ever since I owned this truck for 14 years,I only succeeded in getting it to unscrew,and then it only will come out about 1/4" or so,then it feels like it swelled up so bad it will not come out...
I have tried soaking it with penetrant,using vise grips to twist it out--I even chucked the glow plug in my drill,put it in reverse and spun it a good 5 minutes,it refused to back out any further...
Then I decided I had nothing to lose by using the "let the engine compression BLOW it out" method ,I had read worked for some guys online..
I started it up with the plug screwed in by hand and let it run a few minutes..
Then I unscrewed it with a deep socket..as soon as it came free of the threads,I heard the puffing of compression escaping and saw some white fuel smoke blow out--but as soon as the glow plug hit the swelled up spot--it sealed itself tight--and ran perfectly...NO compression escaping at all!..
..I even tried pushing in on it with the socket,and it just pulsated in and out with each stroke...then I got in the truck,and floored it several times,let it run a good 5 minutes and revved it up to the govenor a few times--it was evident its never coming out --not without breaking it anyways..and I'm not about to do that,since I cannot remove the injector without twisting off the rusted lines on it..
I could probably drive it around for a year with it unscrewed and not have it blow out...
..Then I gave up,decided to just screw it back in,and run it with 7 glow plugs like it has been for 14 years--it went in a bit hard,I think some carbon or soot went in the threads in the hole in the head...might never unscrew again,the hex is whittling away on it..
Time will tell if it will actually start any better--the temps wont be dipping much below 30 here for awhile..hoping it'll help at least..
The truck has so many issues now,its due to be taken off the road...the inner fenders are so rotted,my plow control valve ripped off the drivers side last winter,I had to make a hasty repair using sheet metal and drive screws just to be able to use the plow,the passenger side one was breaking loose from the radiator support and the battery was drooping towards the fan...
...it really needs a whole nose,the fenders have rot..radiator support looks OK,but might not be,once everything else is unbolted..Now the brakes feel like they have little or no power assist,not sure why,the hydroboost seems to be working,going by the tests I read and tried--it has a real firm pedal and you must stand on it to slow down now,I doubt I could lock up the wheels now..
The truck doesn't pull when you apply the brakes and they dont drag,so I doubt if its a caliper or wheel cylinder,the lines and rubber hoses were replaced in 2012--I suspect the steel braided rear flex hose might be the cause,its an "Earl's" hot rod type that is pencil thin with steel braid,maybe it clogged up inside ?....
It still needs an oil pan,the rear spring hanger on the drivers side has a slot rotted thru it,that'll last maybe another year before it comes apart..I know a spot on the frame needs the lower lip welded up where the E-brake cable anchor was ,the rivets pulled out of the frame...but its only a slot about 1/4" wide and 2" long on the bottom lip only..right next to the rear forward spring hanger..
If I decide to keep this truck ,I'm going to have to rip it apart and start replacing and welding things...the first thing to go might be the 6.2...I'm not a big fan of them,never was,but the truck was cheap when I bought it because of it...but I've had enough of the cold start blues,the stinky fuel,and the overall design of them..
If it ends up being worth "restoring" (as in no "bad" frame rot or other major discouragements),I may end up putting one of the 307's I bought in it if either one runs decent without needing an overhaul...whether I'll be able to do any of this in my present condition is doubt full though--I feel like I have busted ribs just leaning over the fender for 2 hours ...if I had a lift I'd be much more able to do this...but I may just end up leaving it as-is and just use it to plow only ...
